Full Tune-up FAQ

suzygrnburg · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:55 am Post subject: Full Tune-up FAQ

Well I have learned how to adjust my valves. I've been checking them every 1500 miles or so and they are now pretty much settled. The engine was just rebulit so the were running a little tight at first. Any who I've been changing the oil every 1500 as well and a new filter every other. I cleaned the screen an was a bit of a chicken tighting the bolt as there has been a few posts lately about people snapping them. I do have a torque wrench but the reading for the lbs. is hard to read because it faces up as I am tighting it. So I left it a bit loose and it was leaking. Tightened it a bit more so we'll see. Rather have a leak than a snapped bolt.

Any who I ordered the whole tune up kit from the depot. I also just bought a Tach/dwell from the local autozone. About 35 bucks. Sears was out. I've been reading ratwells site and this one as well as muir's book. I am still a bit confused when it comes to the Cap, Rotor, Condensor, Points. Anyone have any pics that will aid me through this process? I am hoping when I change all these I will be getting better gas miliage. Right now only about 14. I hope I can get 16-18. I changed the plugs already. Anyone got any advice to help out a newbie?

Thanks!
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TeamSpatula · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:59 am Post subject:

When you change out the cap, do it one wire at a time! That way you won't have all the wires off, then try to figure out which goes where...makes things a bit easier on you...
check your points now - if they're not pitted, and the rubbing block is in good shape, you may not need to change them. I'd suggest checking the dwell as-is before swapping them out.
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suzygrnburg · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:34 am Post subject:

tellis · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:56 am Post subject:

If you plan on changing out your points, make sure you have or can borrow a timing light. A cheap inductive pickup timing light can be had at Harbor Freight for around $13. Then you can just pop your distributor cap off, leaving the wires intact, remove the 13mm nut holding the distributor down, and pull out your distributor to do the points and condensor.
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kkirwin · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 1:24 pm Post subject:

Your Tach-Dwell meter should have 2 wires coming from it, mine has one with a green cap and the other with a black one. Hook the black one to a solid piece of metal on the engine to ground it and then the other wire, in my case green, to the neg. post on your coil. Your engine should be running at this point, now you can flip back and forth on your meter to see what your dwell angle is as well as your RPM's, and volts. My meter is for an 8 cylinder engine so I have to double the readings. Since you have a Muir manual he tells you what the settings should be.

Randy in Maine · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 1:46 pm Post subject:

What they said above.....

To see if they are set correctly just clip that new dwell meter on the green wire going to the points at the coil and the ground bolt that hold the coil on. I think you are looking for 47* +/-3*.

To have a peek at the points, remove the cap and dust cover of the distributor and observe them as they open when they get to the square part of the distributor drive. (I use an adjustable wrench to turn the engine over at the alternator nut.) Pitted and burned is bad. clean and shiny are good. A drop of oil on the little pad the "points follower" runs around the distributor will take away that anoying little squeak. I always change them with the distributor in the car myself, but you need not do it that way.

Suggestion: a magnetic screwdriver is a god send.

I would start adjusting my valves every 2500 miles and then change the oil and filter every 5K.

Owning a timing light is kind of a "manly thing" and that is why women are so impressed with us bus guys as we "get that timing just right". Razz

In order:

valves
warm it up
oil change
points adjust
idle adjust
timing adjust (with the engine warm)
lubricate the front end
lubricate the door hinges including the sliding door

suzygrnburg · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 1:54 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the help guys. I will tackle the rest of my tune up this weekend. I also just got some of the telles oil in the fancy little squeeze bottle. Colin recomended it. It works wonders on the sliding door. And the bottle has a retractalbe extension to get up in the hard to reach area's. Well worth the $5 bucks!!

I need to buy a timing light and then it's off to the races.
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Bookwus · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 2:27 pm Post subject:

Hiya Suzy,

telles oil? What, pray tell, is that?

Mike

1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck

suzygrnburg · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:07 pm Post subject:

shiningstar76 · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 6:59 pm Post subject:

I have always found adjusting the points to be such a pain. I had the distibutor out the other day for other reasons and decided to adjust them while it was out. It was much easier, and it might help you out the first time. They can be hard to see when they are in the bus.
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Elwood-Bluesvan · Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:02 pm Post subject:

Suggestion: a magnetic screwdriver is a god send.

Owning a timing light is kind of a "manly thing" and that is why women are so impressed with us bus guys as we "get that timing just right".
:P

OH how right on you are Randy in Maine--- still can,t get the reason why but will have to soon, as Colin made me remove all traces of previous tune-up and will be shopping for timing lite. Part of me wants to just take it to local garage--- feeling a bit weery tonight -- but mostly want to do it myself---stay tuned.

btw- thanks for intake clog advice--way to gone and found a replacement. Thanks
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ratwell · Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 3:07 pm Post subject:

nemobuscaptain · Samba Member Joined: March 07, 2002 Posts: 3875

Your problem was questioning Steve Dolan. You should have known better.
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Randy in Maine · Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 4:07 pm Post subject:

Judgement call I would say. Pick one.

Muir 19th and 1974 edition says 50* +/-2* (Chapter X)
Bently for buses says 47* +/-3* (Chapter 5 Page 72)
Haynes says 42* - 58* (section 13)

I figure if you are somewhere in that range you are OK. For me 47-50 is where I want to be.

My bus doesn't have them. Shhh

ratwell · Posted: Wed Oct 26, 2005 9:07 pm Post subject:

Zeen · Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2005 10:26 am Post subject:


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