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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:37 pm Post subject: Convertible Door and Rear 1/4 Glass |
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The question arises over and over on how to install, remove or adjust the side glass on the Convertibles.
Apparently the Convertible Side glass systems are basically the same from 1965 - 1979.
Convertible side glass is NOT covered at all by the newer Bentley manuals and the side windows on Sedans are 100% different in design and operation.
I'm also going to gather information from other threads and put them together here creating a one stop Convertible Side Glass reference.
I hope to add photos to many of the quoted pages that follow, thus enhancing the "how to" aspect of this thread.
I'm going to attempt to explain how it all works, what screws do what, how to adjust, etc.
KEEP IN MIND THAT THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES ARE MIRROR IMAGES, YOU WILL SEE PHOTOS OF BOTH ON HERE
Now, I do not have a book to follow so input from others will be a valuable addition to what I know. My experience is with a 1974 Super Beetle Convertible. EDIT: book located, scroll down to find info.
Initially I'll put in a few photos and explain a few basics.......
I'm not even pretending that I know everything about these doors, just want to share what I know in an organized manner to hopefully help others.
Bear with me.......
First a picture of my Drivers door, I crudely marked where important points are located that must be accessed for adjustment........
Here are close ups of these points......
These units have a sheet of glass with a track mounted to the bottom which fastens into the WINDOW REGULATOR arm.
The top edge and the rear edge have a chrome trim mounted to them, the bottom of the rear trim HAS A NOTCH which rides in the rear window guide.
There is a REAR WINDOW GUIDE that fastens top and bottom with the bottom having the ability to adjust glass tilt.
The front of the window glass rides in the WING VENT ASSEMBLY, this has a large groove with a felt channel pressed into it to securely hold and guide the glass. This vent assembly concept is probably the only part of the system that is similar to the Sedan.
This vent assembly also has provision to adjust tilt of the unit. _________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
Last edited by djkeev on Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:49 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Cussers good post on window scraper installation........
Cusser wrote: |
I'm posting all I know below, from my own experience:
1971 VW CONVERTIBLE WINDOW SCRAPERS AND RUBBER SEAL INSTALLATION
INSIDE SCRAPERS
VENT SCRAPER
Probably best just to notch and cut off most of bottom lip of replacement scraper and press/glue in as this avoids necessity of removing window and vent frame.
FRONT WINDOW SCRAPER
Remove outside scraper. Lower window completely. Remove old inside scraper. Using two people, attach lower lip into groove starting at rear of window, sliding replacement scraper forward as you go using
1 x 4 inch piece of sheet metal with 1/4 inch lip and screwdrivers. When lower lip is in and rubber fully forward to the vent window, pull on upper lip and place into groove. Replace outer scraper. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
QUARTER WINDOW SCRAPER
Remove outer scraper first. (note: if two people are available, a procedure similar to the above front window procedure of starting the bottom lip, then sliding scraper forward will probably work.) Otherwise, remove quarter window; remove two plastic caps then two 10mm head bolts w/ washers. Roll window halfway down then lift up to remove. Remove old inner scraper rubber and replace with new scraper rubber by installing lower lip first into groove, then pulling upper lip into groove. Grease window regulator, channel, and groove under window if necessary at this time. To re-install window, crank handle most of the way up, align groove with clip and back of frame with channel, then lower. Re-install two 10mm head bolts/washers loosely. Re-install outside scraper, then align, tightening two 10mm head bolts when aligned. Replace plastic caps. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
OUTSIDE SCRAPERS
REBUILD SCRAPERS ONE AT A TIME TO ELIMINATE CONFUSION.
INSTALL INSIDE SCRAPERS (IF DOING) BEFORE RE-INSTALLING OUTER SCRAPERS.
Outside scrapers are held in place by small #1 phillips screws: two for quarter window and three for front window. (on the 1971 driver's window the middle screw is slightly larger thread.) After removing intact scraper, support on piece of wood and drill out rivets with 1/8 inch bit and remove rivet pieces to remove steel backplate. Remove rubber insert or inserts by sliding out; lubrication with glycerine may make this easier. Cut new rubber pieces to fit by matching with old pieces. Lubricate strips and new rubber pieces well with glycerine. Slide in (for quarter windows) or lubricate well and firmly push both pieces directly in (for front). Wash off glycerine with water. Hold backplate in place and drill hole thru rubber piece; rivet from backpiece side using 1/8 inch short rivets. Then hold in place, drill other holes and sandwich rubber in place using other rivets. Wash off glycerine with water, then reinstall. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
QUARTER WINDOW UPRIGHT SEALS
Remove small phillips screw and rectangular plate near bottom of seal. Slide down old seal. Lubricate frame channel and replacement rubber seal lip well with glycerine and push up into frame (note: this might require two people). Wash off excess glycerine with water. The screw is about 11.5mm up from the bottom of the frame; drill a hole thru the seal at that place, slide up small rectangular bracket, and re-install screw (it's head will pierce the outer part of the seal). |
_________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Photo of window components.....
Bugs'n'Pugs wrote: |
Ssstang67 wrote: |
The glass yes but the chrome trim has a L shape on the bottom back and I need to know if it goes toward outside of door or inside of door??? |
Okay, here are the pictures that I took of the passenger side door window components from my 1978 Super Beetle Convertible.
(So there is no confusion, all pictures are of passenger side. I left the driver's side components wrapped up. )
This 1st picture shows (L to R) the vent window assembly, the window/window frame assembly, and the window guide. The orientation is as if the viewer were seated in the passenger seat and looking out.
This 2nd picture has the same orientation as the 1st picture, but shows the interface between the window/window frame assembly and the window guide.
This 3rd picture shows how the window/window frame assembly and the window guide come together. Here I have picked the components up so that the viewer is look at things as if they were outside the car near the rear passenger tire and looking forward and into the car.
I hope that this helps. |
_________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Cusser Samba Member

Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 32973 Location: Hot Arizona
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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Well well well...........
After finding and reading convertparts1's post about the windows being the same back to 1965..... It struck me remembering how Bentley seems to work........
They seem to largely add information for newer models THAT HAS CHANGED FROM THE PREVIOUS YEARS. That means the reason that Convertible door instructions are omitted from the newer Type I service editions, the light blue and orange books, is that they DID NOT SIGNIFICANTLY CHANGE!
I think that Bentley assumes you own the entire collection of Volumes and have them for reference if need be.
Well........I DO!
So, out to the garage I went, grabbed my 1961 - 1965 Big Blue Bentley and Viola'! Convertible door instructions! (Two instructions, one For up to 1965 and the second for 1965......and not stated but obviously so.... Through 1979!
A quick glance at them and I in essence see my 1974 Convertible door shown! There are of course differences in the door, no top mounted door lock knob, different door release mechanism, etc.
OK. You don't all own the Bentley as a complete set do you?
This looks like a great guide book to help us all understand these windows and to remove the mystery and frustration they seem to bring upon us all!
I'll add photos as I get a chance to take them.
Step 1.
(Refer to my photos at the beginning of this post)
*Remove the two plastic caps of the upper front edge of the door.
*Remove the two 10mm bolts in front of the vent window on the front edge of the door.
(Almost covered by the rubber weatherstripping, plastic caps are removed)....
*Remove the single screw found below the rubber vent window seal, there is a hole in the seal allowing access without removing the seal, open the Vent window, you will find the hole.
(Screwdriver is in the hole to loosen the screw)......
*Remove the 13mm nut at the bottom of the vent window frame
(White arrow)
Lift the VENT WINDOW ASSEMBLY up out of the door. Be careful of tearing the rubber as you do so. You need temove the adjusting stud at the bottom so it clears the window slot easily, with it on, you'll fight (and probably fail) getting that vent assembly out! Don't bugger up the threads with vise grips or pliers when removing the double adjustment stud! They are often seized and will require some "love" to convince them to rotate.
In my experience, I leave the vent assembly loose in the door cavity giving space for the window to exit easily, I then pull the vent frame assembly out afterwards. Just let it drop down in after you remove the adjuster screw from the lower leg.
Step 2
A helper is handy here to hang onto the door glass preventing it from falling down into the door cavity. I often use a rubber coated wood clamp. A simple squeeze lever type....... Like one of these...... http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-512QCN-Gene...oodworking
*Remove the 10mm bolts for the window regulator, there should be three of them, I've painted them white in the photo below..........(ignore the white arrow)
Step 3
*Slide the window lifter towards the rear enabling the white plastic guides to exit the window lift channel via the rectangular holes. You may need to reinstall the window crank handle and raise or lower the mechanism to successfully get everything lined up properly.
(Window Regular and bottom window channel, Arrows point at both Rectangular holes. White Plastic guides? Well.....not so white!)
(Close up of rear window guide and hole)
(This rear guide is an adjustment point, it has a slot in the Regulator and is held on by a Nut, the Front guide is riveted onto the regulator.)
(View inside door looking up at the nut)
Step 4
(Helper still holding the glass)
*Remove the window regulator out of the door cavity through the large access hole towards the rear of the door.
Step 5
*Have your helper lift the door glass up out of the cavity.
I've found that if you pull the upper rear window guide bolt and loosen the lower one that it gives enough slop to get the window frame up out of the window slot. That rear bit of the window frame is thick and a very tight fit! Proceed carefully and you will need a screw driver to help encourage the window frame to travel in the proper direction as needed!
The same applies for reinstallation, upper bolt out, a little leverage applied here and there!
Step 6
*On the rear edge of the door, pop off the plastic cap towards the top and remove the 10mm bolt that secures the rear window guide in the door. ( I suggest doing this before you remove the door glass.)
Step 7
*Remove the 13mm nut at the bottom of the rear window guide bar, remove the bar from the door cavity, it may need to be maneuvered around the door latch and the side impact reinforcement. (Found on newer doors)
(Nut at white Arrow, the two white items under the Door Latch Rod is simple peel and stick 3/8" foam weatherstripping, available at any home supply center. I use it as an anti- rattle medium)
Step 8
*Remove the inner rubber door scraper. It is a "C" shaped rubber piece, just work it off the metal. It wraps around the bottom and slips into a top groove.
Step 9
*Remove the screws (newer cars may be Pop Rivets, drill them out, reinstall with screws) securing the outer window scraper to the door shell. Carefully remove the scraper assembly, it may be rusty and fragile.
Step 10
*Remove the rubber bit at the rear edge of the door window opening. It is held on by a small #1 Phillips screw. Odds are high it may be missing! Replacements are easily obtained.
(White Arrow)
Here is a photo from Bentley page A-37A 4 showing a cross cut of the window scrapers......also the window regulator......
That's it for removal!
It's getting late.......I've been sick......more on another day.
Dave _________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
Last edited by djkeev on Thu May 02, 2013 4:18 am; edited 4 times in total |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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djkeev Samba Moderator

Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32983 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, now let's put this Puppy back together!
*******
I'll add photos as I can, if you've got photos that clearly show steps mentioned, please post them here! I'll move them into the main body of the text if it helps clarify.
Before we proceed with installing parts make sure that the adjustment stop is loosened on the regulator, it's noted by the black arrow on the photo of the unit seen a few pages back.
Lubricate any moving rotating parts on the regulator.
Make sure that the two double ended studs are cleaned and lubricated. The nuts turn easily on the studs and the studs rotate freely in both the Rear Guide Rail and in the lower Vent Frame Assembly.
These studs will be installed with the screwdriver slot out towards the interior of the car.
I often put a smear of anti-seize on the threads.
If you are putting new Window Scrapers on, now is the time! They are a bugger to put on after the glass is in......easy to do right now. Especially the inner scraper!
1. Install the outer moulding and seals. You may need to get new screws, if so, choose wisely and get some stainless steel ones, readily available at Home Depot, Lowes or any good hardware store.
*Now the inner seal, a little bugger it is! Two trains of thought on this.......
A. install the top of the seal in the top groove, press the scraper flange down and then reach down into the slot and massage the bottom lip over the flange.....or, with an empty door cavity, simply reach into the large door opening hole and pull the seal down onto the flange...smallish hands may be required!
Either way you do option "A" it's a minor level of frustration! Doing this same step With the Glass in.....MAJOR FRUSTRATION!!
Or......
B. after engaging the seal top as in option "A" Some feed a small wire into the lower lip of the seal and pull it out as you work the seal onto the flange, not unlike installing windshield glass using a small twine.
Do what works for you!
2. Install the Rear Window Guide. It easily mounts at the bottom with the double ended stud
*The top mounts with a 10mm (head size) bolt through the rear edge of the door.
*Don't tighten things yet, just snug them up.
*Smear some grease on the flange that the window frame slides on. Just a dab on your finger tips and do both sides.
3. Now, take your grease and put a smear in the slot at the rear that engages into the Rear Window Guide.
*Next slide the window glass into the top of the slot past those beautiful new scrapers! Don't worry too much about engaging the Rear Guide for we need to install the Vent Wing Assembly before the window will stay in place!
************************NOTE*************************
Having a helper to maneuver the glass would be a real good thing right now! A helper will Prevent the "guillotine" potential of the glass hurting you! (Unless He/She is an idiot!)
4. Take the Vent Window Frame, (with new window glass channel and new vent wing rubber if needed), shoot a layer of Spray Silicone into the window run channel, wipe off the excess.
*Make sure the lower adjustment screw is removed but nearby ready to install.
*Now carefully lower the frame into the opening and guide in down.
*Your helper can engage the back of the glass into the Rear Window Guide (slot onto flange) and keep it engaged while you get the front of the glass into the window run channel.
*With your helper holding the glass and the Vent Wing Assembly, you screw in the double ended adjustment stud, screwdriver slot oriented to the cars interior.
*Now maneuver the Vent Wing Assembly into the lower mounting slot, loosely install the washer and nut.
*Your helper should double check that the glass is still engaged in the Rear Window Guide and still engaged in the front window run channel.
*Now get the two 10mm (head size) bolts into the front of the Vent Window Assembly. The bolts engage into a floating threaded tap. It helps to take an awl, ice pick, nail, small screwdriver...whatever to put into one of the holes to line up the threads as you screw in the first bolt. Now install the 2nd bolt. Snug up the two bolts and the lower nut.
*One last thing! Put the small screw through the Vent Window Weatherseal and engage the floating plate that it screws into. It may help to use your awl first to position the floating plate.......DO NOT CROSS THREAD THIS SCREW, TAKE YOUR TIME, MAKE SURE IT ENGAGES!!!!!!
*Gently tighten all of the Vent Window Assembly bolts, nut and screw.
********** Whew! You've got the glass in, it is engaged in both the rear slot and in the front run channel. Your helper is begging to let go of the Darn Glass! Lower the glass and let Him/Her relax for a minute, a Refreshing Beverage would be good right now! (Helpers choice!) 🍺 🍹 🍷 🍸
5. Get your Window Regulator, have your helper hold the glass up, and you slip the Regulator into the Big Hole in the Door.
*Have the three short 10mm (head size) bolts with lock washers on them handy.
*Make sure the three mounting points and the window crank stub are facing to the interior of the car.
*have your help slowly lower the window glass until you see the Bottom Track. You will now engage the two "white" guides by guiding them into the two rectangular slots at the same time and then slide the regulator towards the front.
*Now it's a "simple" step of having your helper lift or lower the door glass until the crank stub pokes out the hole and the three screw holes line up, or at least ONE screw hole. Insert a short 10mm (head size) bolt into the one hole.
*Next, your helper will raise or lower the glass until the other two holes line up, put in the other two bolts.
*Tighten all three bolts, snugly. These small bolts snap off fairly easily....no Superman strength required here!
6. ADJUSTMENTS
First Adjustment......
*Adjust the glass between the Vent Frame Assembly and the Rear Window Guide.
*Do this by pushing the glass forward into the Run Channel.
*Now adjust the Rear Window Guide to fit snuggly against the glass.
*Snug up the fasteners.
Second Adjustment.....
*Install the window crank onto the stub and operate the window,does it bind?
*As you crank up the glass does it "tilt" and not go up level? If so you need to adjust the Rear Regulator Guide in the Slot. Loosen the nut on the backside of the rear "white" guide, push the glass against the front window run channel, tighten the nut.
Try rolling the window up and down again......all is good? If not make the needed adjustments now to make it work good.
--------
More to come.......... _________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
Last edited by djkeev on Thu May 02, 2013 4:22 am; edited 1 time in total |
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aguilarspride Samba Member
Joined: November 10, 2012 Posts: 1 Location: Quartz Hill
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 3:07 pm Post subject: reinstallation - of a 59 convertible window |
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Since you mentioned you have the books and have posted "how tos" on other years, could you please post a removal and installation for a 59 convertible seals, glass and weatherstripping? Thanks! I've been trying to follow it just by 'adapting' what I'm looking at but if you could help I would appreciate it. |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

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slione Samba Member

Joined: June 18, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: NJ
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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As always Dave, a great thread. Thanks for putting this out there! _________________ 1974 SB Vert - Getting there, slowly but surely |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

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paulryan72 Samba Member
Joined: February 26, 2011 Posts: 33 Location: Wichita Kansas
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Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Great Thread..... Bad thing is now ive got to get to work. Ive been searching for a thread like this for a long time. Ive have completly done my wifes 71 SB conv except the windows.......ive been avoiding it but this will make it much easier........ Thanks |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

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Rex lucy Samba Member
Joined: April 10, 2008 Posts: 497 Location: pleasant plains arkansas
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2013 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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Great thread. would have saved me a bunch of head scratching. I may have missed it but will add. Inside the vertical guide at rear of door is plastic buttons that are often missing. if so the window will wobble. |
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Epilog79 Samba Member
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Posted: Mon May 27, 2013 9:00 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the write-up, I just finished putting new seals on the a-pillar and now the door is difficult to close. Looks like the top of the vent window is leaning too far towards the middleline of the car. Based on your pictures it looks like I need to adjust the screw at the bottom. ie the Tail end of the long verticle vent piece. |
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djkeev Samba Moderator

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