Windshield sill repair

[BDSBSS23]

Been a long time since I owned a Volkswagen. Last one was the split bus 1965. Still miss it. Anyways now I recently purchased a 1968 bus. Looking for advices on to create the panel for this part. Just not sure how to approach it because of the curves it has. Yes I know there are repair panels already made however I’m not looking to spend money on them due to COVID. Plus not working as well. Want to educate myself how to improve my metal bumping skills. Any tips would be great!

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58 beetle AKA Black Beauty http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=496780&highlight=black+beauty
65 micro bus (project)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522611&highlight=std
Pillar repair with 65 bus
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=530360

[BDSBSS23]

I apologize for the bad pic quality been a long time since I posted pic on thesamba.
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58 beetle AKA Black Beauty http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=496780&highlight=black+beauty
65 micro bus (project)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522611&highlight=std
Pillar repair with 65 bus
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=530360

[skills@eurocarsplus]

you'll never create that profile with rudimentary tools or skills. I know you don't want to hear it, just buy the panel

it will be the best 250 you can spend

https://www.klassicfab.com/product-category/bay-window-bus/windshield-repair-panel-bay-window-bus/

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211805040

I only have experience with the KF one.

seriously, don't waste your time.

judging by your pic, you won't hit weldable steel till at least the tops of the squirter jets. honestly you'll spend more in buying tools to try and do the job.

if that sill isn't perfect, you'll end up with issues either installing the windshield or with leaks. that is an area you don't really want any body filler in either
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[SGKent]

[BDSBSS23]

Well got to say I ain’t surprised with the response.. ok guess I’m on my own creating the panel repairs. Money wise I’m fine I’m just very picky with what I spend on. Maybe I should’ve clarified I do have work but not at this time. Anyways... I’ll need to do three different panels. You will see why I’m doing this. May need to buy a shrinker to make this work out.... I basically have sheet metal sitting around so I have nothing to lose but time.
Created a template to hammer the sheet metal into 90 degree using that as guide.

Looking good so far liking the curve now just need to buy the shrinker to match even better.

Another panel created. Again need shrinker for that.

Third will be easy to make since it’s in the center and flat so no problem there.
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58 beetle AKA Black Beauty http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=496780&highlight=black+beauty
65 micro bus (project)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522611&highlight=std
Pillar repair with 65 bus
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=530360

[BDSBSS23]

Lemme pull up more pics to give you better idea .

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58 beetle AKA Black Beauty http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=496780&highlight=black+beauty
65 micro bus (project)
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=522611&highlight=std
Pillar repair with 65 bus
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=530360

[SGKent]

https://www.klassicfab.com/product/kfbw214-lower-windshield-repair-panel-6in-6879/

https://www.klassicfab.com/bay-window-bus/
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[orwell84]

I did it that way, but my windshield surround was in way better condition. You would need to put another curved bend in you parch panels for starters. My repair came out good but I would have used the panel if I had known one was available even if I had unlimited time. Even if you didn’t factor in time I don’t think you would be saving much money.

[KentABQ]

I'm all for DIY-ing whenever possible.
And it sounds like you have some sheet metal experience, so GOFORIT!
I'm eager to see how it comes out for you. Prove the naysayers wrong!
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-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[busdaddy]

Way too big on the lip, if you are bent on doing this with a shrinker/stretcher the horizontal lip must be of even size and narrow enough to almost fit into the stretcher's jaw (even width legs on an L). Then make the lower vertical part where the wipers stick out by shrinking the edges to curve and bulge it, there's no getting away from a seam where the horizontal meets the lower (exposed) section.
Or alternately build it in 2" wide vertical strips, much less welding going horizontal though.

By chance did you make some cardboard templates of the entire windshield hole, the loser curve and the vertical profile in numerous places before you started cutting?, if not fitting the glass back in may change your mind about home metal repairs.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[BDSBSS23]

[BDSBSS23]

[SGKent]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[Manfred58sc]

Show off your bad-ass fabrication skills! So far so good!If you have an old windshield you can test fit with a new seal.
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Fat chick owner/operator

[busdaddy]

Why not?, sometimes a noob discovers they have the talent to bend metal, I'm rooting for the OP, if the rest of the bus is in a similar state they will need it.
I'm also hoping the OP has the stones to post if they fail (hopefully that doesn't come to pass, the failing that is), too many jump in with big plans and just fade away with no final outcome posted, the vultures are circling, bring on the meat (and hopefully impress us)!
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[BDSBSS23]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

i'm not saying it can't be done...or you can't do it. when someone prefaces a conversation with I don't want to spend any money, it makes it hard to get on the "you can do it" cheerleading squad.

the problem with just doing the "shelf" is you'll lose the rolled edge where the seal sits if you cut too far into the bubble/belt line if you're not careful.

like I said, at minimum I would be cutting to the squirters and put a new panel in. you really don't want weld seams in a channel that is known to hold water. I have done a lot of these repairs, and have seen people fall into the trap of making that lower shelf a hard ledge. your windshield seal won't do much if that's the case.

just trying to save you from yourself and not discourage...many that posted here are trying to do the same. learn on a simpler, less critical area would be my advice.
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[Bulli Klinik]

You don't 'need' a shrinker or stretcher, but it will make much faster work of it.

The hammer-form you made isn't necessary either, though it looks like it's getting you in the right direction.

To shrink: Use some needle nose pliers or a tucking fork to put tucks or puckers into the side of the flange you want to shrink. (Think of the edges of a bottle cap). Once you get close to the curve you want in the panel, clamp it to the bench, heat the tucks until glowing with an OA torch and flatten the tucks. Heat isn't necessary, but it will make the process go faster.

To stretch: Use the chisel end of your hammer and tap at the outside edge of your flange to stretch the edge working your way into the corner of the flange. The outside should receive more taps than the inside. Think of the flat section you are stretching as a folding fan. The outside will have more surface area due to it stretching than the inside of the flange which will not need to be stretched as much.

You can make that panel in one piece though I guarantee it will drive you nuts as there is a lot of shape. When I did it I split the panel in the middle and did two sides. You are going to have a difficult time turning the flange at the outer section of the repair panel and doing the visible nose skin. I would just patch those sections separately up to the skin to channel flange before doing the inner channel. Once you cut the rusty flange out it will give you back side access to the upper nose repairs so can metal finish them.
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PM me about quality metal-work on your vehicle.
Mike K
Bulli Klinik
Colorado Springs

[Bulli Klinik]