Official "Ball Joint" lowering topic

[ashman40]

[NJ John]

The way I always do it is scribe or draw a long line through the factory grub screw hole. If you want adjustability up and down, install it straight with the line. If your using dropped spindles, you want a little up or down. If you start off rotated at like 3/8” from stock, your already at 2” lowered.
Airkewled sells their own with some explanations:
https://www.airkewld.com/PRO-Built-Type-1-Ball-Joint-Adjusters-2451-p/2451.htm
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1973 standard, yellow, lowered, 3” narrowed front, 1600 blo-thru turbo w/single dell 15.4@86, so far
11.41 et buggy. Long gone
Let’s go O’s! Let’s go O’s!
https://www.youtube.com/@AirSpooledGarage

[Thehate916]

Ok, I've been racking my brain and the internet for a couple days with no luck so I figured I'd ask here:

I am installing sway-away style adjusters into a stock 68 BJ beam that is also getting narrowed 4". My question is about the orientation of the small "grub screw" that is hidden once you install the adjuster. If I place the grub screw so it's into the stock divot in the center of the leaf pack, won't the rotation of the leafs 90 degrees to get the other bolt into the adjuster going to change the angle of the leaf pack in relation to the torsion arms? I may just be overthinking this, but it also creates questions for me as to the proper angle of the adjuster in the beam. I was going to weld it in with "max lift" at the stock location, but can't figure out how do this with the 90 degree rotation of the hidden grub screw.

Please let me know if this makes no sense
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'68 Beetle project

[jackro]

Great thanks
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Jack
'64 Bug

[ashman40]

[jackro]

Thanks for the reply. Why does the center puck need to be removed? Isnt it the part that the grub screw goes in to?
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Jack
'64 Bug

[ashman40]

Found this video on YouTube. Seems like a good walk thru of the steps.

Link


You can judge for yourself if you could do this without removing the beam from the car. I would remove the beam to give you better access.

It goes look like you need to remove the torsion springs so you can drive out the center "puck" from its position as the dimples in the beam holds it in place.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[jackro]

I would like to see a video or detailed pics on installing a Puma style front end adjuster without removing the beam from the car. Also is it possible to do this without removing torsion bars?
Thanks
Jack
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Jack
'64 Bug

[VW_Type181]

I have a 1970 181 with ball joint front end. I am thinking about lowering it using thru rods and Monroe air shocks. Has anyone used thru rods to lower the car? How’s the ride and the durability of the thru rods?

https://www.jbugs.com/product/17-2545.html

[sparkle_0]

Hey team,
How does adjusters on a stock width beam lowered approx 3" or so compared to a 2" narrowed beam with drop spindles in regards to ride quality? Is there much difference between the two? (obviously with correct length shocks to match etc)

[Cwd1979a]

Officially need some help. 1970 Beetle. I’ve installed a 2” narrow adjustable beam for use with drop spindles (jbugs, not sure what what the difference is between a normal 2” adjustable beam). I’ve also installed 2.5” drop spindles and I’m trying to get Monroe air shocks MA756 on the front. The trailing arms aren’t going high enough for the shock to be fully compressed. In fact when I compress them all the way the shock is still beyond it’s marked “max air” limit. I just read that special ball joints are needed in my case but would that keep the trailing arms from going all the up? Or is it because everything is new and stiff?

[walter kandetzki]

Hi guys I am running riviera wheels on my 68 and I’m running 195s in the back and might be doing 175 smarts in the front.I will be running a stock width beam with adjusters welded in and probably won’t be using dropped spindles.if I lower the front 3”?and rear a notch or so will I still need lowered ball joints?

[Bug53]

A fountain of info here.
Thanks for leading me over here.
I want a recommendation for the drop spindles everyone is talking about.
I want to utilize my existing drums, bearings, seals, etc.

[amaskedman]

I just went through 46 pages. My lord. Now my turn

I have a 68 with a stock front end. I want to even out the stance, nothing dramatic. From what I understand, some drop spindles would probably work. However, since I just bought a welder and have been practicing, why not make it adjustable. So, to that end.

This is what I will have
EMPI 8 Spoke 4 Lug Rim with back spacing at 4 3/8 (assuming my old rims are the same as the new ones)
Adjustable Beam using airkewld adjustors (they look cool)
Front Disc Kit (haven't decided which one)

Do you think I need drop spindles? I dont think I do. To even it out I probably need to drop it a couple inches.

[frenchroast]

[Zacharysayre]

I put a bevel on them before I tried to install them. So that didn't help.

Talked with the shop that I bought it from. They have had several other purchasers having the same issue. they have checked and the adjuster has been cut wrong. Not sure how to grind the opening bigger.

Would it be wise to grind the edge of the springs to make them fit.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real

[frenchroast]

[BayStYat]

the best way to load the leafs is to bundle them tight like they install, take a sander and round just the outer edges of the leafs. just remove the the hard 90. slight bevel. they will slip right in everytime.

[frenchroast]

[Zacharysayre]

I tried that trick and I also tried to leave 1 wide spring out but no luck with either of those ways.

Figured once they were partial in I would then add the last spring in. I know to install all the leaves.
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If it ain't steel, it ain't real