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dobryan Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 5:02 am    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

VwFredy88 wrote:
Hi all. I just want to locate the kill switch in my vw because PO put it and doesn't work properly now. The early days, if I didn't press the brake pedal the engine wouldn't switch of, it just remained on. Now every time I press the brakes the power supply cuts of. Any thoughts on where it might be connected with? Ignition coil, starter, key? Thanks


My guess is that there is a relay of some sort tied into the brake light wiring. Time to start tracing the wiring....
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2018 2:42 am    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

baltik wrote:
So I already have a hidden coil kill switch but wanted to add a cutoff for the +ve lead of my starting battery.

My house battery likes a higher charging current (Trojan flooded) so I wanted an easy way to separate the batteries so I can raise the voltage.

This also seems like a convenient way to stop parasitic drain as well during winter storage.

I really like the look of this switch, it could be mounted much more discretely and I like that the key can be removed while the switch is still on..

What gives me pause is that it is rated at 100A, does that seem safe for a starting battery hot lead?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8070060


I like this version and the fact that you can remove the key in the on position. Checked the UK manufacturer webside (https://www.durite.co.uk/s/c/switches-and-indicators/battery-isolators/battery-isolator-100a-at-24v-and-500a-54084# ) and they state a 500 Amp rating for 5 sec. Should be enough even for tdi-starters.
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VwFredy88
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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 11:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

Hi all. I just want to locate the kill switch in my vw because PO put it and doesn't work properly now. The early days, if I didn't press the brake pedal the engine wouldn't switch of, it just remained on. Now every time I press the brakes the power supply cuts of. Any thoughts on where it might be connected with? Ignition coil, starter, key? Thanks
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

This battery switch is better:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kcw-10639/overview/

Works good (so I have been told.....)

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baltik
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2018 9:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

So I already have a hidden coil kill switch but wanted to add a cutoff for the +ve lead of my starting battery.

My house battery likes a higher charging current (Trojan flooded) so I wanted an easy way to separate the batteries so I can raise the voltage.

This also seems like a convenient way to stop parasitic drain as well during winter storage.

I really like the look of this switch, it could be mounted much more discretely and I like that the key can be removed while the switch is still on..

What gives me pause is that it is rated at 100A, does that seem safe for a starting battery hot lead?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/uis-8070060
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danfromsyr
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

from another kill switch thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8509371#8509371

all this can be wired in the engine compartment w/o adding any wiring runs
it gets a little more complicated if you want to honk your oem horn. even the jettas with a passive lock&alarm system use a seperate horn for the alarm..

woggs1 wrote:
Christopher Schimke wrote:
I think that it would be great to wire up a hidden/secret kill switch, but take it one step further and wire in a relay that is connected to a hidden horn so that if the starter solenoid is powered up without the kill switch being tripped, the horn blows. In other words, the kill switch would have to be in it's deactivated position to both start the car and stop the horn from going off while turning over the starter. That way the hidden horn blows each time the thief tries to turn over the engine.


Brilliant! can anyone with the skilz can do a wiring diagram for this? After all these thefts I am putting this at the top of my priority list. And if you can add in a flashing LED for the dash that would be great!




danfromsyr wrote:
and to have more fun in the engine compartment for easy and cheap theft preventative measures.
utilizing an 87-87a type relay.. one that has 2 output terminals one normally open, one normally closed. (this won't work with a relay with 2 87 terminals.
by adding a flasher relay and horn to the 87a circuit it will beep beep beep the horn if the brake lights aren't stepped on while cranking the starter over.

like this.


#30 input wire from key to starter solenoid.
#87 output wire to Starter solenoid
#87a wire to 2pole flasher relay then from flasher relay to a spare HORN then to ground
#85 Brake light wire
#86 Ground

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


danfromsyr wrote:
it wouldn't be hard to add a 'hot start' relay that also required the brake lights to be on to allow the starter wire to complete it's circuit to the starter.


just one more hokey-pokey for a would be hot wiring tweaker..
I'm fairly sure they wouldn't think to press the brakes while they're head is under the dash crossing wires like they learned on the TV.

Relay will only complete both circuits when
the brake lights are ON
AND
the starter is being cranked.


#30 input from key to starter solenoid.
#87 Starter solenoid
#86 Brake light wire
#85 Ground

Similar can be done with the E-brake requiring more hokey-pokey
Ebrake up, Brakes stepped on and cranking. (all needed wires are in the dash)
#30 input from key to starter solenoid.
#87 Starter solenoid
#86 Brake light wire
#85 Ground at base of E-brake




Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

I added a kill switch to the negative coil wire on my '68 Moostang. It helped prevent a theft from doing his nasty. Think I need to do something with our white turd for I'm starting to worry too much.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 1:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Kill Switch Questions Reply with quote

I say go with either, but better, BOTH of the low-tech ones (above): a ground to the neg of the coil; and another, to create an open circuit, on the power supply to the fuel pump. With all the possible places to install the switches, only Houdini could get past that in a reasonable tie period. Just don''t break into the current wiring anywhere that your hack can be seen so as not to give any clues. And sure, wire in an intermittent circuit for horn blasts as well, BUT if you're not near enough to hear it, you might get towed by the cops-- any cop who's not smart enough to reach behind the front bumper and unplug a horn wire.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That dome light switch is not a good choice, only barely designed to turn on that light. It will not carry the current for your fuel pump and I would not trust it to even trigger a relay reliably. If you have a kill switch for your fuel pump you must make it dead reliable or you could strand yourself in a bad spot while trying to figure out why the engine stopped running. YMMV....
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been doing research on installing a fuel pump kill switch. This idea of using the dome light looks good. Mine doesn't turn on and I haven't bothered yet to figure out why. I don't think I want to use it as such and will add aux lighting anyways.

So what would be involved with wiring this up? From what I read I would cut the ground wire, or better unplug the ground and keep it usable as a direct plug in later on if needed, and split off from the wire and to and from the switch?

I'm assuming the same gauge wire as the ground would be safe to use, but is the switch itself capable of handing this?

As it is a ground wire, is this less critical than if it were hot?

Failing this solution, a fog light switch is option B.

That and a Club are my first two theft prevention items, Looking for a GPS solution too. As the $$ keep climbing on restoring this baby, I'm looking got hang on to it.

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm being reminded of Stan Wilder's story about his Porsche 911. The PO had wired a kill switch through the dome light switch - but didn't tell Stan about it when he bought it...

He had a day of head-scratching after innocently adjusting the dome light!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wire a well hidden wire to the negative side of the coil. Run the wire to the cockpit and fit a switch to earth the wire. Turn it on and no spark. If you do it well no thief will work it out. It will even stump a few mechanics.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christopher Schimke wrote:
I think that it would be great to wire up a hidden/secret kill switch, but take it one step further and wire in a relay that is connected to a hidden horn so that if the starter solenoid is powered up without the kill switch being tripped, the horn blows. In other words, the kill switch would have to be in it's deactivated position to both start the car and stop the horn from going off while turning over the starter. That way the hidden horn blows each time the thief tries to turn over the engine.


Brilliant! can anyone with the skilz can do a wiring diagram for this? After all these thefts I am putting this at the top of my priority list. And if you can add in a flashing LED for the dash that would be great!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that it would be great to wire up a hidden/secret kill switch, but take it one step further and wire in a relay that is connected to a hidden horn so that if the starter solenoid is powered up without the kill switch being tripped, the horn blows. In other words, the kill switch would have to be in it's deactivated position to both start the car and stop the horn from going off while turning over the starter. That way the hidden horn blows each time the thief tries to turn over the engine.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

danfromsyr wrote:
it's really no different than just adding another switch inline on the Ign key circuit.


The 2nd owners of my van did just that: Kill switch wired into the ignition switch. When I took the switch out to diagnose a near no-start problem, I couldn't help but notice that they had used some wimpy wires in order to connect to the tiny switch terminals (instead of finding tiny connectors to accommodate the larger wires needed)... surprising the van didn't have a dash fire earlier in its life (the switch got fried at Home Depot a couple years ago, hence the near no-start). Shocked

One of these days I'll get around to adding a kill switch to the fuel pump circuit, with the switch hidden instead of being right there on the dash.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wouldn't a switch to ground the Tach signal suffice to create a non-start scenario? that pulls off the Pulse side of the coil?
I'm asking because I don't know but for the 85+ vans the wire is right in the instrument cluster already.

then again with a switch on the dash, it's really no different than just adding another switch inline on the Ign key circuit.


on mom's van when we got it there was a kill switch that interupted the fuel pump power feed. it spliced in at the firewall and was located under the back seat in a hidden location. presumably for trailhead or longer term security than a grocery store concern.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my side, i also have a switch on the ground of the fuel pump and i always put a bar in the steering wheel.

As some says, a crazy thieft could always take it, but he will have a some trouble.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been using the built-in anti-theft prevention designed by VW's engineers... the ignition switch that fails.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syncro Pilot wrote:
Trunk Monkey

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WFqr3_frh3Q&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DWFqr3_frh3Q


I want one! Smile
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rockfish wrote:
There is a vent/louver cover - it is black and has some felt to seal with the door. I took a few minutes to look at the GW and VC websites to see if I could find the part and photo. No luck.

It's got to be out there somewhere....

You mean this....
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