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79SuperVert Samba Member

Joined: May 31, 2002 Posts: 9757 Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
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Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you! _________________ Central Jersey VW Society
Wanted: Art Collins VW (Savannah, Georgia) items - license plate surrounds and other items. Also ivory "AM", "FM" and "SW" buttons for a US Blaupunkt Frankfurt. |
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 27754 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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yes, bearings are most often made form babbit(tin/lead), bronze, or aluminum
None of these are magnetic |
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AlteWagen Troll

Joined: February 23, 2007 Posts: 8746 Location: PNW
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Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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| 79SuperVert wrote: |
Resurrecting an old thread to ask a completely neophyte question: I've been told that non-magnetic gray gook buildup on the oil filter screen is an indication of severe bearing wear. I'm just curious to know what material bearings are made of if they are metallic but not magnetic. Be gentle and thank you!  |
old bearing are steel backed lead. New bearings are aluminum backed |
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79SuperVert Samba Member

Joined: May 31, 2002 Posts: 9757 Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
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Posted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 2:32 pm Post subject: |
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Resurrecting an old thread to ask a completely neophyte question: I've been told that non-magnetic gray gook buildup on the oil filter screen is an indication of severe bearing wear. I'm just curious to know what material bearings are made of if they are metallic but not magnetic. Be gentle and thank you!  _________________ Central Jersey VW Society
Wanted: Art Collins VW (Savannah, Georgia) items - license plate surrounds and other items. Also ivory "AM", "FM" and "SW" buttons for a US Blaupunkt Frankfurt. |
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miniman82 Samba Swamp Donkey

Joined: March 22, 2005 Posts: 9515 Location: Southern Maryland
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Posted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Google Books wrote: |
| Scraping bearings is an obscure, but useful technique for removing bearing high spots. |
It's a method for removing high sopts, not correcting clearance according to your link.  _________________ Build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212747
| Glenn wrote: |
| satterley_sr wrote: |
I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy. |
Welcome to the Samba. |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42938 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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how to tailor fit a bearing with a babbitt knife:
http://books.google.com/books?id=5jNS4NubpR4C&...mp;f=false _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"  |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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The finest whetrock with honing oil keeps that from occurring..
Then hone it with a piece of leather... Just like glass. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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Stuggi Samba Member

Joined: October 16, 2007 Posts: 1208 Location: Jakobstad, Finland
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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| miniman82 wrote: |
My idea to machine the thrust would be to put the bearing in the case (or a fixture which simulated the clamping load of the case), then put the case/fixture in a mill with a cutting head and take material off that way. If you ask me though, it's a lot of work for nothing, seeing as how you can get the correct endplay by wet sanding. I mean really, it takes what, maybe 10 minutes to get it right with some fine grit, or a few HOURS the other way?  |
Never said it was the perfect way, but what a couple extra hours to a guy that worries about embedding aluminum oxide in the cam bearings?  _________________
1970 Beetle
1969 Panelvan
Orange VW Fest!
Pulled out of a Lake Fest! |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
| but I think it has more to do with Marines being simple. |
And effective.. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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miniman82 Samba Swamp Donkey

Joined: March 22, 2005 Posts: 9515 Location: Southern Maryland
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Jake Raby wrote: |
| ya'll are making this way too difficult. |
I'm used to Marines saying stuff like that to a squid like me, but I think it has more to do with Marines being simple.  _________________ Build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212747
| Glenn wrote: |
| satterley_sr wrote: |
I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy. |
Welcome to the Samba. |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 9:16 am Post subject: |
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ya'll are making this way too difficult. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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miniman82 Samba Swamp Donkey

Joined: March 22, 2005 Posts: 9515 Location: Southern Maryland
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 8:39 am Post subject: |
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My idea to machine the thrust would be to put the bearing in the case (or a fixture which simulated the clamping load of the case), then put the case/fixture in a mill with a cutting head and take material off that way. If you ask me though, it's a lot of work for nothing, seeing as how you can get the correct endplay by wet sanding. I mean really, it takes what, maybe 10 minutes to get it right with some fine grit, or a few HOURS the other way?  _________________ Build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212747
| Glenn wrote: |
| satterley_sr wrote: |
I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy. |
Welcome to the Samba. |
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Stuggi Samba Member

Joined: October 16, 2007 Posts: 1208 Location: Jakobstad, Finland
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Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 5:38 am Post subject: |
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| Bruce wrote: |
| SGKent wrote: |
Sanding a soft material like a bearing can be problematic. The soft material picks up the loose abrasives and it then becomes a cutting stone. What would be better is to use a babbit knife or even a pocket knife with a flat blade to gently scrape them until they fit. |
Scraping stock cam bearings is about the dumbest thing I've heard in months. You'll never get a true flat surface.
If you were so worried about sanding the bearings, just throw the cam in the lathe and cut the flange wider. |
My thoughts exactly, if you need to remove material in a precise manner, why not used a machine designed to remove material in a precise manner? Only slight problem I can think of is clamping down a soft part as a bearing in a secure fashion. _________________
1970 Beetle
1969 Panelvan
Orange VW Fest!
Pulled out of a Lake Fest! |
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Bruce Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2003 Posts: 17658 Location: Left coast, Canada
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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| SGKent wrote: |
Sanding a soft material like a bearing can be problematic. The soft material picks up the loose abrasives and it then becomes a cutting stone. What would be better is to use a babbit knife or even a pocket knife with a flat blade to gently scrape them until they fit. |
Scraping stock cam bearings is about the dumbest thing I've heard in months. You'll never get a true flat surface.
If you were so worried about sanding the bearings, just throw the cam in the lathe and cut the flange wider. _________________
| overheard at the portland Swap Meet... wrote: |
| ..... a steering wheel made from a mastadon tusk..... |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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I never make an assumption, thats the first turn off on the road to failure..
Looks like we are on the same page, happy building. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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miniman82 Samba Swamp Donkey

Joined: March 22, 2005 Posts: 9515 Location: Southern Maryland
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Jake Raby wrote: |
| miniman82 wrote: |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Remember, you haven't built a TIV engine yet. |
Doesn't matter, they both use the same exact cam bearing setup. Matter of fact, I'm using T1 double thrust bearings in mine. It's not my first shindig. |
Thats because the thrust bearings are the same!! (except if you double thrust, then the tang has to be removed from the TI bearing) Two of the other cam bearings have a different width and their tang locations are not correct for the TIV engine. |
Or do like I did, and file a spot for the tang to sit in right into the case. Only takes about 10 minutes with a hand file, super simple. Truth be told though, I only did it because I had a set of T1 cam bearings in the garage, and didn't want to wait for T4 stuff to show up through the mail.
| Quote: |
| when material is removed to set cam end play prior to settling of the bearings, you'll generally be out of spec before the engine ever sees the first 100 miles. If you didn't know that, then perhaps you haven't had enough "shindigs" yet.. |
You're making assumptions...
I never said I don't seat the bearings.
I do it with main and rod bearings as well, before using plastigage.
Like Sigurd, I've had bearing sets that would go onto that cam at all unless they were first wet sanded a little bit. It's also a good idea to lightly sand that sometimes sharp outer edge of the thrust surface of the cam, so the bearing doesn't get hung up on it. I sometimes see blanks that leave much to be desired in finish work.
A lot of this doesn't really apply much to me though, since I use straight cut gears in T1 engines. The T4 will matter though, it has stock gears. _________________ Build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212747
| Glenn wrote: |
| satterley_sr wrote: |
I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy. |
Welcome to the Samba. |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:05 am Post subject: |
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When I face the situation of bearings being toot ight for assembly at all I generally remove the absolute least amount of material possible, then settle the bearings.
After that the clearance is generally spot on.
My next DVD will go over these procedures. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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Sigurd Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2006 Posts: 2639 Location: Rockford, IL
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:50 am Post subject: |
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| I sanded mine not only to give the correct clearance, but clearance, period. The bearing was too wide for the journal. I like Jake's idea, but even that wasn't practical for a cam that won't even fit in the bearing. |
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SGKent  Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 42938 Location: at the beach in Northern Wokistan
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 6:33 am Post subject: |
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Jake - the next engine we build, we will use one of those sets. I've noticed that T4 wear cam bearings and lifter lobes more than T1, especially with heavier springs. _________________
Canned Water - the new California approved parts cleaner (except in a drought in which case rub it with sand).
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."
Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice" 
Last edited by SGKent on Wed Sep 09, 2009 7:42 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Jake Raby Samba Member

Joined: August 23, 2003 Posts: 7433 Location: Aircooled Heaven USA
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Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:23 am Post subject: |
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| miniman82 wrote: |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Remember, you haven't built a TIV engine yet. |
Doesn't matter, they both use the same exact cam bearing setup. Matter of fact, I'm using T1 double thrust bearings in mine. It's not my first shindig. |
Thats because the thrust bearings are the same!! (except if you double thrust, then the tang has to be removed from the TI bearing) Two of the other cam bearings have a different width and their tang locations are not correct for the TIV engine.
The TI responds the same to settling of the bearings before the end play is measured. The fact is when material is removed to set cam end play prior to settling of the bearings you'll generally be out of spec before the engine ever sees the first 100 miles.
If you didn't know that, then perhaps you haven't had enough "shindigs" yet.. Don't worry, it all comes with time... Check back around engine #800 and we'll compare notes.
Not trying to be a dick here fellas, just trying to stimulate thought that may save you from the same harsh learning curve that we experienced.
Maybe I need to illustrate this with video.
BTW_ I have cam thrust bearings made that are 2X as resilient to wear as the mahle and KS units, called "Extreme" bearings. These have the toughest thrust surfaces available as they were developed with my roller camshaft program to endure the rigors of 100K+ miles of service with a roller profile and heavy dual springs. _________________ Jake Raby
Raby Engine Development
www.rabyenginedevelopment.com
"I've never given anyone Hell, I just told them the truth and they thought it was Hell" |
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