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far rider 
Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2005
Posts: 939
Location: Rutland, VT
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 Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2024 10:38 am Post subject: Re: How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics |
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Here’s what I did- just another option. Cut off outlet pipe at rear as deep as I could get it. Removed the transmission carrier bolt for light access. Fed the fuel line from front to rear. Went through relatively easy. I tapped the end that I fed through using a 6x1 screw- the same used to hold all the engine tin. The head of the screw gave me to something to pull up and out using a coat hanger. Got the screw almost exiting the hole at which point a few various tools helped force it out. Front is simply a matter of figuring the length you need and putting a small bend in the front . Pull the line through until your front bend lines up with the outlet. Secure with stainless steel straps.
Picture shows line with screw pulled up with hanger and pushed through with a small piece of rod.
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themadcap
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Joined: January 02, 2005
Posts: 23
Location: Miramar, FL
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| Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2017 9:01 am Post subject: Re: How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics |
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 Awesome Job!!!!!
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JMkarmann
Samba Member
Joined: December 25, 2016
Posts: 9
Location: belgium
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| Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 1:47 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics |
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Hi.
I am new to all this but would nylon fuel Line be a good choice ( better??) Then stainless? |
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scottyrocks
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Joined: August 19, 2016
Posts: 2853
Location: Thornton, CO
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| Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Bruce wrote: |
| EA812 wrote: |
| .... Turn your light in the rear inspection hole to face down the rear tube and you can look in the tube through the trans mount bolt hole. Once the tube is at the opening in the frame, use a long thin Phillips screw driver or any long round object that you can fit into the fuel line. Reach into the tube with the 1/4 inch square steel piece you got at home depot, and gently lift the fuel line up towards the opening and stick the Phillips screw driver in through the frame opening into the end of the fuel line. This will act as a guide for the line to follow up and out the hole...... |
This sounds really cumbersome. There's a much easier way.
Once you have the fuel line fed to the rear by the shift rod coupler, insert a full length of welding rod into the hole of the frame horn at the rear where the fuel line exits. Push the welding rod as far as the shift rod coupler. Feed the welding rod inside the fue line. Now as you push the fuel line towards the rear, it will automatically find the exit hole in the frame horn and come out. |
Before reading this, I was thinking basically the same thing, but using bailing wire instead of welding rod. I have a large role of it. It can be fed through the old line, and then the new line, and then then what is sticking out the back can be bent over. Then you pull on the end that has the old line, and the new line should follow it through. |
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Goshen
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Joined: April 03, 2012
Posts: 833
Location: Miami. FL & Cartagena
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grandpa pete
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Joined: July 06, 2008
Posts: 6426
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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| Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 3:41 pm Post subject: Re: How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics |
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Just finished replacing the front to back fuel line using the Bentley book method as a guide . Two hours INCLUDING the trip to AutoZone . I bought two pieces of their "bendable " 1/4 inch fuel line ; one piece 6 foot and the other 4 foot and a union '....the two pieces worked out great . I was able to run the 6 foot piece from the top of the tunnel by the rear seat crossbar , down and along the passenger side of the tunnel and through a 9/16 hole I drilled through the napoleon hat...the second piece went from the top of the tunnel down a couple of inches and around to another 9/16 hole drilled one inch away from the hole with the brake line ...the four foot piece allowed me to do something a little different . I was able to eliminate the cloth line above the trans and run the hardline through and into a hole I drilled in the firewall . In the future I won't have to fool with the gas line in the tins ; just clamp off the new fuel line and pull the engine .
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EA812
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Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1231
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2016 10:07 am Post subject: |
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| MikeinAtwater wrote: |
| EA812 wrote: |
| BTW glutamodo, I got the 1/4" Summit racing stainless steel fuel Line because of one of your posts a wile back about this subject. tks for the link too I never even thought of Summit. |
Thanks much for the info...Summit has a warehouse in Sparks, NEV. I order in the AM and get it the NEXT DAY! So, thanks to you, my stainless line is coming. Original line was leaking gas in the tunnel...Big bummer, as the cool bug is a daily driver.
Wife is Chief of transportation at a large trucking firm (Central CA) so her raked VW is a 'trademark'.  |
Yeah, that was a big help when I found that post! I was looking into the original stuff and a price quote was like $300.00.
I did this myself like six years ago and also have a 66 now with original fuel line. The idea of it blowing out is always in the back of my mind. From the looks of what I could see in the tunnel it all looks great in there but there is always the possibility of it getting eaten from the inside I guess.
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MikeinAtwater
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Joined: January 27, 2016
Posts: 3
Location: Atwater, CA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:25 am Post subject: |
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| EA812 wrote: |
| BTW glutamodo, I got the 1/4" Summit racing stainless steel fuel Line because of one of your posts a wile back about this subject. tks for the link too I never even thought of Summit. |
Thanks much for the info...Summit has a warehouse in Sparks, NEV. I order in the AM and get it the NEXT DAY! So, thanks to you, my stainless line is coming. Original line was leaking gas in the tunnel...Big bummer, as the cool bug is a daily driver.
Wife is Chief of transportation at a large trucking firm (Central CA) so her raked VW is a 'trademark'. |
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Loren
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Joined: January 10, 2004
Posts: 1823
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| Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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I just replaced the metal fuel line on my 57 Ghia pan today and have a few tips that might prove useful to others. I cut the fuel line flush with the transmission horn at the back of the pan and pulled the old fuel line out through the front of the pan. Next I threaded the end of my new fuel line and made a bullet shaped insert that I screwed into the end of the fuel line.
This is the insert I made from some scrap round aluminum
This is the end of the fuel line I tapped with a 12-24 tap
screwing the insert onto the end of the fuel line
With the old fuel line out I used a long screw driver to slightly enlarge the front bracket for the fuel line inside the tunnel. Next I put a little grease on the end of the new fuel line and using a paint stick I put a little bit of grease at the front of the center bracket directly under the opening for the emergency brake. For some unknown reason a previous owner put about 2 cups of grease under the e-brake in the tunnel. I had to dig most of it out with a paint stick, but what remained really helped install the new fuel line. Finally I pushed the new fuel line through the front bracket, the middle bracket and the rear bracket under the inspection plate.
This is the view through the hole for the e-brake. You can see the new fuel line going through the center bracket
It helps to have a second person pushing the fuel line while you direct the line through the middle and rear brackets. It also helps to leave the end of the new fuel line coiled so you can easily rotate the line while you push it to the back of the pan. The hardest part was getting the line to exit out the back of the frame horn. I used a loop of bailing wire to pull the end of the fuel line up and a screw driver to help guide it up through the hole.
The bailing wire helped to pull the fuel line through the hole in the frame horn.
If you are doing this alone it helps to bend the bailing wire to keep the fuel line up.
The insert worked great at keeping gunk out of the end of the fuel line and guided the fuel line easily through the original brackets. Now all I have to do is cut the end of the fuel line to length. |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26527
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:14 am Post subject: |
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| I should have added: the "Bowden" tube between the conduit and the flange on the transaxle is the only place that there is supposed to be any "give" when the clutch cable is moved. |
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eschmi
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Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 174
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:08 am Post subject: |
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| alrighty thanks! I'll have to figure something out then, maybe just measure where the tube goes through a chunk of metal at both ends and put a stopper or something around the tube... i'll post pics when I figure something out haha |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26527
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 12:01 am Post subject: |
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| Correct! You want ONLY the clutch cable to move there. |
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eschmi
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Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 174
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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| gotcha, I assume so the tube isnt just sliding in and out and all over the place every time the cable is pulled correct? |
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glutamodo
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26527
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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| That tube needs to be firmly anchored to the frame. If you can find a way to secure a plastic tube to the frame in such a way that it never moves, then I suppose it could work. |
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eschmi
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Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 174
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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| not sure if this is a dead thread or not but figured it seemed like the right place to ask, is it possible to replace the metal conduit tube for the clutch cable inside the tunnel with a vinyl/plastic tube instead? the metal one is broken up and I pulled out out (original buggy builders botched the shortening) so I'm curious if itd be better to use a plastic tube so the cable wouldnt have as much rubbing and wouldnt rattle around in the center tunnel. Thoughts? |
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EA812
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Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1231
Location: North central, CT
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EA812
Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2008
Posts: 1231
Location: North central, CT
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| Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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| vwnut1 wrote: |
| LoneWolf8 wrote: |
| I have a 56' Bug that recently need the fuel line changed. For those of you who have tried this, we all know how difficult it can be. However, this is 2011, and technology has now saved those of us that hate things that are difficult. Dorman now makes a nylon fuel line that fits inside the old, leaky steel tube. That's right!!! No more frustrating hours of replacing that old line. Just insert the end of the nylon tubing into the old steel tubing and push. Dorman makes a nice tool to put the unions on the ends of the new line, and just use the regular fuel hose from there to the tank and carburator. Walla! |
Great call. They have been using this technique for years in the natural gas industry when the steel service line to your gas meter develops a leak underground that would be expensive/difficult to repair. The crews call it a "service replacement" and it usually involves only 2 excavations to replace the entire service line from the gas main in the street to your gas meter shut off valve. A brand new polyethylene pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter than the original steel service pipe is inserted in the same method you described. It saves utility companies TONS of paving and labor costs. |
wish I knew of that when I did mine, maybe the next car that needs it I'll try that. Being that it is a smaller diameter does it let enough fuel through?
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vwnut1
Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2012
Posts: 495
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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| LoneWolf8 wrote: |
| I have a 56' Bug that recently need the fuel line changed. For those of you who have tried this, we all know how difficult it can be. However, this is 2011, and technology has now saved those of us that hate things that are difficult. Dorman now makes a nylon fuel line that fits inside the old, leaky steel tube. That's right!!! No more frustrating hours of replacing that old line. Just insert the end of the nylon tubing into the old steel tubing and push. Dorman makes a nice tool to put the unions on the ends of the new line, and just use the regular fuel hose from there to the tank and carburator. Walla! |
Great call. They have been using this technique for years in the natural gas industry when the steel service line to your gas meter develops a leak underground that would be expensive/difficult to repair. The crews call it a "service replacement" and it usually involves only 2 excavations to replace the entire service line from the gas main in the street to your gas meter shut off valve. A brand new polyethylene pipe that is slightly smaller in diameter than the original steel service pipe is inserted in the same method you described. It saves utility companies TONS of paving and labor costs.
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shano63
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Joined: October 06, 2006
Posts: 3634
Location: Stormville NY
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| Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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lol..was waiting for you...
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EA812
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