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NEW Door Seals from ISP West
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Mark Shutt
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to fix mine to a point where I'm happy Smile I glues the bottom edge and rear edge in 1st as normal until I was happy and used plastic spreader to really push the seal into channels. then I glued the top piece in but I stretched it considerably bit by bit, gluing it in as I went along until I got to the 2 retaining holes. By now the top piece was stretched about 6-8" and I made new holes in the seal and attached the clips to hold the sucker in place! Then I cut that horrible section out that runs down the hinge are Twisted Evil I replaced this section with a regular section from an old door seal, glued the ends together with the bottom join just passed the bottom corner under the channel so an invisible join. looks great and door shuts beautifully Cool really happy now, no idea if it leaks but I can always look at that hinge section another time and maybe add a "bug check strap" seal but I doubt it'll make much difference..

Mark.
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Orbison74
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was able to reduce the water flow quite a bit. But still it isn't water tight. I am not dogging on the ISP guys. They are the only source of a lot of the parts needed on these type III's. I still end up getting water on the floor of the passenger side. I would not care if my car were a trailer queen. But it is my only car, and I put 25,000+ miles a year on it. And it rains a lot throughout the year. HAHA

Willo.... Come put my door seals in without leaking, and I will put that windshield seal in properly.

In short, I have glued, and re-glued this door seal over 8 times in this hinge area. Still in shambles. But the only relief is that I am not the only one.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Shutt wrote:
I'm at the stage of fitting my door seals, think they are German quality ones and a real PITA to fit, I did one door and it looks like the car has been involved in an accident! the door handle is hard to operate and the door "springs" open when opened! have a look at the picture Evil or Very Mad

think I'll have to look at something like what ISP sells, I don't mind if they are not 100% water tight as long as they fit niecely..

if anyone has any suggestions to get my German seals to fit then please give any tips of links to help! I've thought of cutting sections out and maybe stretching the material so it's not as dense... the main problem area is the check strap section, I thought of cutting that out completely and running a regular section in that area and joing it under the door out of sight.

Thanks, Mark.


Mark, what you'll need to do is either trim down the block around the check rod (make it thinner), or trim it off completely. I ran into the same issue on my 65 Notch when I used the German door seals I got from CIP. That block is a little too thick on the repop seals, and on my car just needed to be removed completely (the seals came as part of a door seal kit I got from them). I used the smaller check rod seal for a bug in it's place, but that the difference between the early and later cars.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

notchboy wrote:
Not be be harsh but, no the seals wont and cant fit perfect. For a couple of reasons.

Thank you ISPWest for at least having these done, but Orbison these are not German OG seals by a long shot. The real ones are way more dense and honestly fit better.

Second these repops are kinda modeled after simple early seals. They fit in the door different as compared to later doors especially where you are describing your issue near the two hole clip thing.

You may notice that your door has a recessed channel for the rubber to sit in near this spot? Well that was for thicker, denser later OG German seals.

The only way I think you can even attempt to fix your issue is to build up that section by the hinges with weather strip under the seal.

Im surprised the other door doesn't leak a bit.

Good luck and report your findings!


I have to agree 100% with Jason on this one. The OE style German seals are what you need to fix this issue.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed the new door seals from ISP and still had water leaking in the car. It turned out to be faulty hinge seals. Early Type3s had these seals, along with all Notchbacks. I still get some water in the car when it rains, but it comes from the "fresh water vents" under the dash.
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Heckrazr
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok then Anthony.....I have an issue with my doors not sealing with the previous version....that I spent 80 bucks on top of the 600 plus on rubber.....I just washed the car for the first time yesterday and my doors and carpet...which i also bought from you are soaked. I understand that nothing remanufactured will ever fit like original on a 40 to 50 yr old vehicle....and I'm not making a show queen but I do expect my doors to not let water in. Any suggestions? Yes, I have assembled doors before and yes all the window felt, scrapers and such have been installed properly.

On a sidenote I love that IRS trans I got from you.......

I'm not a disgruntled customer in ANY way....I love what you guys are doing for the TIII guys....just looking for a fix.....

Aloha

Dave
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Shutt wrote:
I'm at the stage of fitting my door seals, think they are German quality ones and a real PITA to fit, I did one door and it looks like the car has been involved in an accident! the door handle is hard to operate and the door "springs" open when opened! have a look at the picture Evil or Very Mad

think I'll have to look at something like what ISP sells, I don't mind if they are not 100% water tight as long as they fit niecely..

if anyone has any suggestions to get my German seals to fit then please give any tips of links to help! I've thought of cutting sections out and maybe stretching the material so it's not as dense... the main problem area is the check strap section, I thought of cutting that out completely and running a regular section in that area and joing it under the door out of sight.

Thanks, Mark.

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Just get the ISP seals, they are excellent!
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vlad01
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Willo357 wrote:
I just drilled holes in my seals for the plastic plug things
my doors seal like a treat .....

I just need to do the front window seal now Twisted Evil

Thanks IPS keep the rubbers coming Exclamation


Yes, its all about how you install it. also there maybe some issues with the door position and alignment

I test fitted ISP door seals and I recon they fit better than the OG, because we have to face the fact no NOS seal will be as soft and pliable as they were when new 40 + years ago. just like old vs young people skin Laughing
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Mark Shutt
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm at the stage of fitting my door seals, think they are German quality ones and a real PITA to fit, I did one door and it looks like the car has been involved in an accident! the door handle is hard to operate and the door "springs" open when opened! have a look at the picture Evil or Very Mad

think I'll have to look at something like what ISP sells, I don't mind if they are not 100% water tight as long as they fit niecely..

if anyone has any suggestions to get my German seals to fit then please give any tips of links to help! I've thought of cutting sections out and maybe stretching the material so it's not as dense... the main problem area is the check strap section, I thought of cutting that out completely and running a regular section in that area and joing it under the door out of sight.

Thanks, Mark.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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1968 1600TL Auto build thread, have a look!

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6007222#6007222
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Willo357
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just drilled holes in my seals for the plastic plug things
my doors seal like a treat .....

I just need to do the front window seal now Twisted Evil

Thanks IPS keep the rubbers coming Exclamation
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notchboy
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not be be harsh but, no the seals wont and cant fit perfect. For a couple of reasons.

Thank you ISPWest for at least having these done, but Orbison these are not German OG seals by a long shot. The real ones are way more dense and honestly fit better.

Second these repops are kinda modeled after simple early seals. They fit in the door different as compared to later doors especially where you are describing your issue near the two hole clip thing.

You may notice that your door has a recessed channel for the rubber to sit in near this spot? Well that was for thicker, denser later OG German seals.

The only way I think you can even attempt to fix your issue is to build up that section by the hinges with weather strip under the seal.

Im surprised the other door doesn't leak a bit.

Good luck and report your findings!
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OK, this thread is over. You win.

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Orbison74
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is an old thread, but I am pulling my hair out trying to get these ISP door seals to not leak. Drivers side is not leaking. Passenger side I installed the EXACT same way... I can not find any difference, but still get leaking. The water seems to be running in starting where the two holes are that the old seals clip into by the hinge. It runs down past the door mounts, down the pillar and under the metal sill that covers the heater channels. I have decided to block the 3 holes under the metal sill, because that is how I am getting water from outside the car, into the heater channels and onto the floor. The car has never been in an accident and the doors do not sag, so the seals should fit perfect.


Does anyone have a picture of the seal area I am talking about on their car, that DOES NOT LEAK? I would like to model it after that. No offense to Anthony of ISPWEST but his pictures on the website of that area show exactly what I have....and I assume if that door was installed onto a car, and not on a work bench, it would leak as well. I am pulling what hair I still have out of my head on this one. I swear its easier to rebuild an engine than to put door seals on without having LEAKS!

Any pictures would be awesome. I am sorry to sound like an A-Hole.
Thanks
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Rockcod
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anthony,

Are you going to have these at the next Pomona swapmeet?
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6T5 square
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now I have the DDB door seals on my car. If I get the ISP seals, do I remove the DDB seals or leave them on?
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PIMPPRIDE
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes, that will work fine, the glue used to mend the corner seams is much like a super glue

its important to remember, not to stretch the seal during installation, or you will end up with extra slack in the seal...

i've done it myself... this is how we found you will end up with extra slack... ( thou its a natural reaction to want to stretch the seal, when doing so it opens up the groove when installing the seal, making it easyer to go on... just resist the temptation of stretching ) and you'll find the seal is the correct length...

Anthony / ISP WEST
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squaretobehip
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Foxy wrote:
Just fitted these on my 63 square.
Easily the best door seals I've come across. Fitting was easy, and door shuts really nice.
For some reason mine seemed about 2" too long. Confused Nothing a bit of cutting and super glueing won't solve though. Smile
Thanks for the top service Anthony! ( as usual ).


Yeah mine were a tad bit too long as well. I ended up just cutting out the extra bit underneath the door where no one will see, and using super glue to join the ends together.
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Foxy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just fitted these on my 63 square.
Easily the best door seals I've come across. Fitting was easy, and door shuts really nice.
For some reason mine seemed about 2" too long. Confused Nothing a bit of cutting and super glueing won't solve though. Smile
Thanks for the top service Anthony! ( as usual ).
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOCHABILL wrote:
Were these the German seals from ISP ?


Here they are:

(Right) http://www.vwispwest.com/product.php?ispproduct=vw...11831712FR

(Left) http://www.vwispwest.com/product.php?ispproduct=vw...11831711FR

You have to select German from the drop down box.
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MOCHABILL
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 8:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Woreign wrote:
I only had to glue the seal along one side of the door (where the check strap is). The rest of the seal fits the nicely without the need of any glue. So if I have to ever remove them, it will be easy...


Were these the German seals from ISP ?

Happy 4th everyone!
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only had to glue the seal along one side of the door (where the check strap is). The rest of the seal fits the nicely without the need of any glue. So if I have to ever remove them, it will be easy...
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