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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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 Posted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:14 am Post subject: |
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DAY UNKNOWN...
After a brief hiatus I got back to work....
Brakes were bled. Engine was installed. Timing and Dwell were set.
There was a brief scare upon first starting the engine. I could hear an awful grinding noise at idle that would not go away - it turns out the clutch wasn't properly adjusted. A few minutes later and the car was running tip top!
Thank you all very much for the help and advice. I appreciate so very very much!
The inaugural ride was in the snow. I could not wait to get her around the block.
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1970 Squareback |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23371
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:37 am Post subject: |
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| knewknew wrote: |
| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
Temperature sensor for the cold start valve.
If you do not live in a sub-zero climate, the car should be fine without it. |
hey russ,
thanks for identifying that switch for me. I was hoping to hear a little bit more about it...
Is the cold start valve somewhere in the throttle body housing?
And if I decide to run the engine without the switch, what should I do with the wire? clip it? ground it off?
I'm not sure how it works, so I don't want to confuse the computer.
Thanks! |
Yes, the valve is on the IAD. Just unplug the valve and you should be ok. My 70 and 71 are set up like this, as the CSV system has been disabled.
If you really want the system in place, PM me with your address, and I'll send you one.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 12, 2010 11:27 am Post subject: |
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| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
Temperature sensor for the cold start valve.
If you do not live in a sub-zero climate, the car should be fine without it. |
hey russ,
thanks for identifying that switch for me. I was hoping to hear a little bit more about it...
Is the cold start valve somewhere in the throttle body housing?
And if I decide to run the engine without the switch, what should I do with the wire? clip it? ground it off?
I'm not sure how it works, so I don't want to confuse the computer.
Thanks!
_________________
1970 Squareback |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Temperature sensor for the cold start valve.
If you do not live in a sub-zero climate, the car should be fine without it.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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supaninja
Samba Member
Joined: July 03, 2010
Posts: 4020
Location: houston
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 8:51 pm Post subject: |
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DAY 8:
Got the final FI parts connected (thanks Tram!).
No, the exhaust isn't in primer, but grey high heat paint. I tried my best to find the original grey/green paint, but no luck.
Here she goes!
Almost there.
Idiot Proof.
I accidentally broke the connecting tab to this sensor. So what is this exactly? Temperature sensor? Is there a common equivalent replacement available? ie something at NAPA or AutoZone?
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1970 Squareback |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 8:31 am Post subject: |
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| Tram wrote: |
Hey! Just noticed this thread- it's looking GOOD my man!  Glad to see you taking the time to do things right. |
thanks!! I appreciate the positive feedback.
I would never have gotten this far without the Type 3 board for sure.
| Tram wrote: |
Agreed 1000% about the cooling regulating system.
Your engine performs at peak efficiency at full operating temp. THIS IS BUILT INTO THE DESIGN!!! You gain ABSOLUTELY NOTHING and actually sacrifice a lot of efficiency by disarming the thermostat and flap system. This system is designed to get the engine up to op temp FAST. THIS SYSTEM is the reason VW told you in the owner's manual NOT to warm the car up, but drive off right away, even in the coldest weather. It gives you heat FAST in the winter as well. Almost every idiot I've heard bitch about "no heat" in these cars has had the thermostat and regulating system disabled.
WHEN ARE PEOPLE GOING TO GET IT THRU THEIR THICK SKULLS THAT THE WAY TO FIX THESE CARS IS NOT BY TAKING PARTS OFF AND THROWING THEM AWAY??? 
I'd like to hear Alex or Anthony's story behind this. |
I was initially skeptical of reattaching everything, as my car had overheated and the flaps were stuck in the down position. But, I realized it was due to a 'perfect storm' of problems that will never be repeated again.
btw, I hope my initial post didn't seem like I was dragging their name through the mud. I was just merely mentioning the conversation I had with them. They have been very helpful with me and my million other questions in the past.
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1970 Squareback |
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Woreign
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2006
Posts: 2841
Location: Crestview FL
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| Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 2:53 am Post subject: |
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| knewknew wrote: |
I also took apart my clock and hoped it was going to be the typical solder fix after reading the repair thread. Not the case with mine. The solder is intact and allowing a good connection. The problem is elsewhere.
A question for those who have had these open. Should these gears be able to be moved by hand? Mine seem really 'stuck', but I don't know if it supposed to be that way.
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Here's what did to get the clock to start working again:
1. Spray mechanism with starting fluid, letting the fluid drain away from the face of the clock. The plan is to spray away all the old grime and oil.
2. Spray mechanism with WD-40 or other light lubricant.
3. Blow away excess WD-40 with compressed air.
4. Clock should start ticking away. If it stops, repeat until it runs smoothly.
This procedure has worked on two clocks so far. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 23034
Location: Northwest of Normal
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| Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:48 am Post subject: |
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| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
| knewknew wrote: |
Went through a lot of effort to repair and rebuild my air flow vent control. Only to abandon the idea after speaking with ISP west. Apparently they do more harm than good. Do you guys have yours installed?
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Bull shit.
That puts me off on ISP, if they are telling people that.
I have never seen a T-3 overheat because they had the thermostat in them. If the thermostat fails, it fails in the open position.
They are there to speed up the warm up period. Get the engine up to operating temperature quick, and then maintain that temperature constant.
Not one of those people at ISP has ever been to ACVW engine school. I have been several times.
I have now lost all respect for ISP, and their knowledge. |
Agreed 1000% about the cooling regulating system.
Your engine performs at peak efficiency at full operating temp. THIS IS BUILT INTO THE DESIGN!!! You gain ABSOLUTELY NOTHING and actually sacrifice a lot of efficiency by disarming the thermostat and flap system. This system is designed to get the engine up to op temp FAST. THIS SYSTEM is the reason VW told you in the owner's manual NOT to warm the car up, but drive off right away, even in the coldest weather. It gives you heat FAST in the winter as well. Almost every idiot I've heard bitch about "no heat" in these cars has had the thermostat and regulating system disabled.
WHEN ARE PEOPLE GOING TO GET IT THRU THEIR THICK SKULLS THAT THE WAY TO FIX THESE CARS IS NOT BY TAKING PARTS OFF AND THROWING THEM AWAY???
I'd like to hear Alex or Anthony's story behind this.[/quote]
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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Tram
Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 23034
Location: Northwest of Normal
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| Posted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:40 am Post subject: |
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Hey! Just noticed this thread- it's looking GOOD my man! Glad to see you taking the time to do things right.
_________________
Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
| Bryan67 wrote: |
| Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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chapolito
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2010
Posts: 111
Location: San Diego, CA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Russ Wolfe wrote: |
| Not one of those people at ISP has ever been to ACVW engine school. I have been several times. |
ACVW engine school! where do I enroll?
_________________
the abomination - 72 squarish
Chapolito Web Design |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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DAY 7:
The thermostat linkage was reinstalled and I used the properly rated unit for Fuel Injection (80-85c).
I also took apart my clock and hoped it was going to be the typical solder fix after reading the repair thread. Not the case with mine. The solder is intact and allowing a good connection. The problem is elsewhere.
A question for those who have had these open. Should these gears be able to be moved by hand? Mine seem really 'stuck', but I don't know if it supposed to be that way.
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1970 Squareback |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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They have to develop a hole in the bellows.
They have a liquid in them under a vacuum. It remains a liquid at normal temperatures. As the liquid is heated, it expand into a vapor and fills the vacuum allowing the bellows to expand.
The liquid kind of smells like an alcohol of some type.
Make sure the linkage is free, and even lub it with some high temp anti-seize. Make sure the linkage is adjusted properly, and that the safety spring is in place. The spring, is in case the linkage breaks, or comes apart.
It pulls the shutters open.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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| 66311 wrote: |
| knewknew wrote: |
Their logic was that the engines typically run hot in the first place, so constant air flow couldn't harm the engine. And the bellows often failed.
I understand your point about if it fails, it would be in the open position. However, mine failed (from rust) while in the shut position and my engine cooked.
Is there any harm if it is open all the time? |
Do you think it may have rusted shut in the closed position because it sat for a long time?
My 70 was rusted shut and the spring was there but it sat for 19 years w/out running. I doubt if it could have rusted shut if it had been run regularly. |
one theory is that it rusted shut, then the bellows went bad later and could not force it open.
Can bellows go bad while just sitting? I have no idea.
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1970 Squareback |
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66311
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2006
Posts: 1477
Location: Olive Branch MS
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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| knewknew wrote: |
Their logic was that the engines typically run hot in the first place, so constant air flow couldn't harm the engine. And the bellows often failed.
I understand your point about if it fails, it would be in the open position. However, mine failed (from rust) while in the shut position and my engine cooked.
Is there any harm if it is open all the time? |
Do you think it may have rusted shut in the closed position because it sat for a long time?
My 70 was rusted shut and the spring was there but it sat for 19 years w/out running. I doubt if it could have rusted shut if it had been run regularly. |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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| knewknew wrote: |
Their logic was that the engines typically run hot in the first place, so constant air flow couldn't harm the engine. And the bellows often failed.
I understand your point about if it fails, it would be in the open position. However, mine failed (from rust) while in the shut position and my engine cooked.
Is there any harm if it is open all the time? |
You are missing the safety spring that helps pull the shutters open. Also, your thermostat is bad. Bad ones expand to fill the bracket.
I do not see that many fail.
T-3 engines do NOT run hot. Their fan moves them most air of any of the ACVW cooling fans.
Type 3:
| Quote: |
Cooling .Air cooling by fan on crankshaft
Air quantity . .. . . . .. . .Approx. 580 litres (21 cu. ft.) per second at 3,800 engine rpm.
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Type 1 and 3 was only 550 litres (19.6 cu.ft) per second at 3800 rpm.
(I do not have the T-1 and 2 manuals scanned.)
I think ISP needs to read the factory manuals before they give more bad advice.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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Their logic was that the engines typically run hot in the first place, so constant air flow couldn't harm the engine. And the bellows often failed.
I understand your point about if it fails, it would be in the open position. However, mine failed (from rust) while in the shut position and my engine cooked.
Is there any harm if it is open all the time?
_________________
1970 Squareback |
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Russ Wolfe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2004
Posts: 25187
Location: Central Iowa
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:20 am Post subject: |
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| knewknew wrote: |
Went through a lot of effort to repair and rebuild my air flow vent control. Only to abandon the idea after speaking with ISP west. Apparently they do more harm than good. Do you guys have yours installed?
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Bull shit.
That puts me off on ISP, if they are telling people that.
I have never seen a T-3 overheat because they had the thermostat in them. If the thermostat fails, it fails in the open position.
They are there to speed up the warm up period. Get the engine up to operating temperature quick, and then maintain that temperature constant.
Not one of those people at ISP has ever been to ACVW engine school. I have been several times.
I have now lost all respect for ISP, and their knowledge.
_________________
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up, you end up with a lot of scum on the top!--Edward Abbey
Gary: OK. Ima poop. |
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knewknew
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 217
Location: Alexandria, VA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:24 am Post subject: |
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DAY 6:
Had some issues figuring out the oil cooler and what seals to use.
Rebuilt the heads and began installing the metal shrouding (repainted with some high temp paint).
Went through a lot of effort to repair and rebuild my air flow vent control. Only to abandon the idea after speaking with ISP west. Apparently they do more harm than good. Do you guys have yours installed?
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1970 Squareback |
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sharkskinman
Lateral Lunatic
Joined: April 26, 2006
Posts: 4045
Location: Deep In My Own Psyche
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| Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:17 am Post subject: |
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http://monksvivolks.weebly.com/contact-us.html
i lived there for about 4 years
go down to "Monk" at V.I.VOLKS
great friend
great vw guy
tell'm Spoon says "high"
He can definitely give you info and insite
there is a couple semi local for parts
evwparts "joe langois".. in severna park,md
http://www.evwparts.com/
peek performance
http://peekperformance.com/
summit racing
http://www.summitracing.com/
all in MD
_________________
74 Mexi Swamp Thing. 70 square volksrod (Swamp Rat)..65 C10
| Me of Course wrote: |
| Extremity is relative to how far your willing to jump |
| Ward Cleaver wrote: |
| You ever try a pink golf ball, Wally? Why, the wind shear alone on a pink golf ball can take the head off a 90-pound midget at over 300 yards |
PS4 "NKOGNEATO" |
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