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bugninva
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

millerje78 wrote:

no Bruce, I do not use an 009 to control the timing on my engine. I use an 010, that was inspected by Glenn Ring to ensure its quality. Out of curiosity, why did you infer that from my post?


I'm not trying to answer for bruce, but it's not uncommon for the advance weights to stick on old 009's... this can cause erratic idle because the timing doesn't always retard back to where it should...(they use one spring, typically)
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millerje78
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
millerje78 wrote:
I am currently dealing with a wandering idle speed condition in my sedan. I do not know why my engine is doing this, but sometimes it idles nice and low and sometimes it idles quite fast, above 2000 RPMs in fact. When I shut down the ignition when the idle is high, it diesels a bit; when I shut down the ignition when the idle is low, it stops cold.
I bet you have a 009 distributor.


no Bruce, I do not use an 009 to control the timing on my engine. I use an 010, that was inspected by Glenn Ring to ensure its quality. Out of curiosity, why did you infer that from my post?
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GusC2it
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The ignition spot is usually a piece of carbon on or around the spark plug.
High temps are the cause. High idle speed exacerbates the run on, but is not the cause. Remember, if you are getting run-on with the ing. off, the same conditions exist when the engine is running. A cooler plug should help, and higher Octane gas is a protection against pre ignition and detonation. Cool
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2011 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kadrons don't have cutoff solenoids.......right?

But yeah, they surely put those on for a reason Wink
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a reason VW designed a fuel shutoff solenoid for the idle circuit of the carb. Is it working? Shut off the air and the fuel and it WILL NOT keep running, no matter how many hot spots there are. Wink
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
millerje78 wrote:
I am currently dealing with a wandering idle speed condition in my sedan. I do not know why my engine is doing this, but sometimes it idles nice and low and sometimes it idles quite fast, above 2000 RPMs in fact. When I shut down the ignition when the idle is high, it diesels a bit; when I shut down the ignition when the idle is low, it stops cold.
I bet you have a 009 distributor.

D'oh.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

millerje78 wrote:
I am currently dealing with a wandering idle speed condition in my sedan. I do not know why my engine is doing this, but sometimes it idles nice and low and sometimes it idles quite fast, above 2000 RPMs in fact. When I shut down the ignition when the idle is high, it diesels a bit; when I shut down the ignition when the idle is low, it stops cold.
I bet you have a 009 distributor.
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modok
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, ok
mixture and timing will have an effect on it

Is it a problem? maybe maybe not.
But you can notice if it is worse or better depending on changes in mixture and timing, and that might tell you something useful
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millerje78
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
When you turn the key off, it stops power to the ignition. Therefore, there must be some other way to cause the A/F mixture to ignite. A high idle speed or a rich mixture doesn't provide that source of ignition.

I've worked on plenty of engines that were set really rich that never ran-on after you turned the key off.

When you have retarded timing, the burn is still happening when the exh valve opens. That sends the head temps way up because all that fire is now in the exh port. If you advance the timing, more of that heat stays in the chamber and gets converted into work, pushing the piston down. Thus, the exh gasses that leave the chamber are much cooler, and head temps reflect that.


this explanation makes good sense to me, Bruce. The reason that I mentioned idle speed is because I am currently dealing with a wandering idle speed condition in my sedan. I do not know why my engine is doing this, but sometimes it idles nice and low and sometimes it idles quite fast, above 2000 RPMs in fact. When I shut down the ignition when the idle is high, it diesels a bit; when I shut down the ignition when the idle is low, it stops cold. hmmm....perhaps I should get to the bottom of this idle situation.
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you turn the key off, it stops power to the ignition. Therefore, there must be some other way to cause the A/F mixture to ignite. A high idle speed or a rich mixture doesn't provide that source of ignition.

I've worked on plenty of engines that were set really rich that never ran-on after you turned the key off.

When you have retarded timing, the burn is still happening when the exh valve opens. That sends the head temps way up because all that fire is now in the exh port. If you advance the timing, more of that heat stays in the chamber and gets converted into work, pushing the piston down. Thus, the exh gasses that leave the chamber are much cooler, and head temps reflect that.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
Luftgekült wrote:
Maybe it is an stupid question but,
if ignition is off, why does it matter how much advance it has?

Dieseling is the A/F mixture self igniting after you turn the key off. It is caused by excessive temperatures in the chambers causing hot spots hot enough to ignite the A/F mixture. The excessive temps are caused by retarded timing.

IOW, advance your timing to prevent the hot spots that cause dieseling.


are hot spots necessarily the problem though? I understand that dieseling can also be caused by the idle being set too fast, or from the idle circuit being too rich.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you care about your engine? Why would you even think about not running the best 93 O. gas in your ACVW engine? It's cheap insurance against detonation.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Hellooooooo Priss.............are you out there? Anxious



yes Darth.......waaaaayyy out there!
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luftgekült wrote:
Maybe it is an stupid question but,
if ignition is off, why does it matter how much advance it has?

Dieseling is the A/F mixture self igniting after you turn the key off. It is caused by excessive temperatures in the chambers causing hot spots hot enough to ignite the A/F mixture. The excessive temps are caused by retarded timing.

IOW, advance your timing to prevent the hot spots that cause dieseling.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luftgekült wrote:
Maybe it is an stupid question but,
if ignition is off, why does it matter how much advance it has?
Not stupid at all....I'd call it astute observation.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hellooooooo Priss.............are you out there? Anxious
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Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

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JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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Luftgekült
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe it is an stupid question but,
if ignition is off, why does it matter how much advance it has?
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's your tune up? Valves, plugs, wires, points, ect.?
That can make it diesel easy.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^ and run some chamber cleaner through.this is what happens when there is not enough quench+ torque is lower than it should be.low compression need more fuel,chambers with little to no turblance from quench have lower torque and need more fuel,and the extra fuel?well not all of it is burnt and becomes deposits that get hot & cause runon&detonation.if ti were mine I would snatch the heads and mill about .100 off to get a little quench back and then if the cr is to high do some chamber work that will not only help lower the cr but also make it breathe better.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:56 pm    Post subject: Re: octane curiosity Reply with quote

priss wrote:
1699 singleport
Dual Kads
Hemi cut stock heads
Engle 100
Stock exhaust
Question UNknown compression Question


As ALB asked, what is your timing set at? With hemi heads you'll need to increase timing 4 - 6 degrees over what you would normally run for stock. Modok may have given a clue as to the engine being too rich. With hemi cut heads you need to advance the timing. Berg ran as much as 40 degrees total. He advised that if you could run that much timing and didnt get any detonation or over heating then decrease the main jet one size and back the timing down to about 34 total. Might be something to try.
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Mitey62 wrote:
Swapped the Compufire for a Bosch blue and some points I had sitting around, started 1st crank. Took her out for a drive, pulls harder, more RPM, and runs smoother. I think I'll be sticking with points from now on.

RockCrusher wrote:
JB weld the case halves....that'll keep the fretting to a minimum. Laughing
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