1915 build. Advice needed!

69bajaguy · Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:56 pm Post subject:

How much bigger should I go?

69bajaguy · Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:55 pm Post subject:

I believe the mains are 115.

Jesse1914 · Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 12:45 pm Post subject:

My brief .02 guess is main circuit jetting. sounds like the idle circuit is good...main comes on around 2500. whats the main jet sizes? maybe go bigger?
_________________

69bajaguy · Posted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 11:51 am Post subject:

Now I've got the engine broken in and the carburetors adjusted pretty good with the snail synchrometer. The snail is showing right around 5.5 on all four barrels. The engine idles pretty good, but is still hesitates a lot on acceleration around 2500 rpm. It helps a little to pump the gas pedal a tiny bit whenever it starts hesitating, but it's definitely not drivable right now. Does anybody know what might be causing this hesitation?

69bajaguy · Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject:

Well I did run it at 2500 rpm for a while and it was pretty smooth when I did. Then I changed the oil and adjusted the valves when it cooled off.

wompninja · Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:43 pm Post subject:

Break it in, if it's close and will run at 2500-3000 then you'll be fine. You don't want it idling at all when it hasn't broken in.
_________________
Pics of my 1970 Satin Black Type 1 build

69bajaguy · Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:22 pm Post subject:

Well We got it running, and it sounds pretty smooth at idle. Whenever I try to drive it and accelerate, it just starts sputtering and won't let me get near putting it in second. It starts sputtering like that maybe around 2500 rpms. I've been working with the carbs trying to get them adjusted right and everything sounds good at idle, but it's not drivable. What's the problem here?

69bajaguy · Posted: Wed May 08, 2013 5:12 pm Post subject:

Any thoughts on this?

Break-in then tune or tune then break-in?

69bajaguy · Posted: Tue May 07, 2013 2:19 pm Post subject:

Alrighty, I know it's been a long time since the last update so here's where we're at now.

We tried another different battery (this time from my dad's truck which is regularly driven) and it turned over beautifully! Now, after carb cleaning, new gas in the tank (the old gas had been sitting for over 6 months. DUR!), a new battery, and a bit of timing adjustment, it cranks right up and runs! However, I am going to have to take it to a guy to get the carbs and timing adjusted right so here's my problem... Does it need to be fully adjusted before performing the break-in procedures as specified by Glenn in the quote below, or does it need to be broken in before it gets tuned up?

The problem with the latter option, in my mind, is that it has to run for quite a while to be adjusted correctly, so I feel like that would defeat the purpose of breaking it in. Help?

joebennettPA · Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:00 pm Post subject:

A bad ground connection will do that all day,, check you conn. from batt to body, body to trany, and double check your starter connections
_________________
75 "La Grande" super <10k miles, ac,sport shifter,sport steering wheel,sunroof, chrome sport wheels, Viper Green, All original factory/Dealer options! (sold)
73 super, ON THE ROAD!! 14month rehab!
1982 rabbit caddy!

Quokka42 · Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:57 pm Post subject:

It doesn't matter how long you charge a battery once it has died. It can seem to charge, measure a nice voltage, but not be able to deliver the current to drive the starter. Check your other connections, earth straps, battery cables.
_________________
There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross.

69bajaguy · Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:47 am Post subject:

The old motor was pretty worn out. We actually tried rolling it off, which I know probably wasn't a great idea, and that didn't work. As for the battery, I did charge it right before I tried to start it the first time, and then I put in a different battery that I know is good. Both had the same result, which is in the video.

Quokka42 · Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 3:03 am Post subject:

I dunno, sounds like a dead battery to me. It can still measure 12V (actually 13.05 if fully charged) and not be able to start the car. Has it been charged since you parked the car?

If you aren't driving the car, you should put it on a charger for several hours at least every three months.
_________________
There has only ever been one man who was perfect, and they nailed Him to a cross.

DUELLER · Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:45 pm Post subject:

if the starter worked fine was that on an old worn out motor? Fresh motors take a bit more. I went down this road a year ago with a fresh motor. ended up getting a rebuilt starter from an autostick....way better. check the forums

69bajaguy · Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:30 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the replies. I actually did try pulling two of the plugs out but it didn't help at all. As for the starter, it worked perfectly fine when I put the bug in the garage last June or July and I don't think it could have gone bad just sitting around. Am I right in my thinking?

And rammintwins, I haven't checked to see if I'm getting 12 volts at the starter yet. I'll have to do that, thanks.

rammintwins · Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:25 pm Post subject:

are you getting 12 volts? could be a ground, you could check that, double check all you wiring, sparkplug wires 1432, etc etc

DUELLER · Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:23 pm Post subject:

I'm new to your thread. but as far as your last comment, i would pull your plugs and see if that helps speed it up. if not than i would lean toward your starter/ bushing. good luck

69bajaguy · Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:35 pm Post subject:

Okay guys, I have everything together and ready to go. I have run into a problem though. When I try to start the engine, it turns over extremely slow. I tried it with a different battery that I know is perfectly fine and got the same result. Here is a video of what's happening. Help!

Link

[email protected] · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:44 pm Post subject:

I normally run deep sumps 1/2 qt low, using the "Add" mark on the dipstick as my new "FULL" mark, and the end of the dipstick as my "add" mark. You'll get less oil blow running it 1/2 qt "low", which you can only get away with because you have a deep sump. Breather Box orientation is correct in that picture. Don't use screws, use bolts with nylock nuts so they don't vibrate loose. Make sure breather hoses slope down to the engine.

I also run 2 hoses on the 1/2 side, and none on the 3/4 side due to windage, it just works better.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

69bajaguy · Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:20 pm Post subject:

So I don't need to factor in the external filter? And thanks for catching that breather box. Is this better? Any other concerns or comments?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Premium Membership \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

1915 build. Advice needed!
Page: 1, 2, 3 ... 9, 10, 11 Next Jump to:

Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions		Share:
		Print View

	Forum Index -> Performance/Engines/Transmissions	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: 1, 2, 3 ... 9, 10, 11 Next Jump to:
Page 1 of 11