What goes into making a 1600 a 1776?

[nsracing]

the 1600cc to 1776cc = she just gotta get bigger jugs... 90.5mm sizes.

Now who does not appreciate bigger jugs?

[Thormr2]

[[email protected]]

now there is nothing wrong with an 1835 or 2180, if you are using the thick wall 92s those are awesome!!
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[Cusser]

[clonebug]

I just had the 1679cc engine built and will be boosting it to at least 12 lbs.
I'm using the 88 mm thick walls from acnet.

We'll see how it holds up.
I don't see a problem for street use.

It should be fun......
_________________

[[email protected]]

http://vwparts.simple-helix.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/

has some great tips and things to think about for what you are doing.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[Mal evolent]

discount the 1835 if you live in the southwest. thin cylinder walls, uneven heat dissipation, 115 degree days...
_________________
73 Beetle Baja, Ghia front brakes, Type 3 rear brakes, 2220 ( 94 X 80 ), Weber Progressive, Bosch SVDA, '97 Mustang seats

Baja Bugs for Volkswagen Virgins: Index

[andk5591]

Throwing this out there - it costs about the same to build a 1914. Getting a few extra cc's out of the deal isnt a bad thing. And keep in mind that you want to build an engine based on what you are going to use it for. Huge ports, high lift monster header and all are great for high RPMs, but for a street engine, you will rarely see 5000 RPMS. And you can get a LOT of low end grunt from a 1914.

And staying conservative will give you longer life as well. Modest cam or ratio rockers, ported stock or mild aftermarket heads will do a lot for you. Quality filter pump or full flow is a great idea as well. Also keep the header size small 1 3/8" ish.
_________________
D-Dubya Manx clone 1914. Ex wifes car.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Ex-wifes car.
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them...

[bertha64]

[mark tucker]

if it's a 76-84 crank I would use 5.5 rods, well I would use them on 74 also.but I do have the 5.4 uni's in my 2028 with 78.8 mm crank, but had to trim the cylinders shorter.longer rods & shims are alot easyer unless you can do it your self.

[66 Shorty]

[Henrip]

[cookrw]

Also, if I am getting the head worked on, what else should I do? From what I understand, airflow through the head is what limits my max rpm, so just to be safe, should I keep it stock? What benefits happen if I do other things to the head?
_________________
'71 Super 'Vert
'84 Vanagon GL (w/ Sunroof!)
'96 Jeep Cherokee

[cookrw]

This looks very interesting. I have an email in with some questions about these. Has anyone used this before?

[DarthWeber]

Henrip, I assume a central Italian 40 is a single Weber 40IDF. You'd be much better off with dual 40IDF's. Easier to tune and more potential power, drivability and fuel mileage. I strongly recommend dual carbs.

Sorry for the hyjack Cookrw.

Are you aware of the P/C's in the link below? These 88's are thick wall machine in making them much more reliable than 87's. The base of the cylinders are turned down so they fit the stock 85.5 case spigot. All you'll need is to have your heads opened up to fit the cylinders.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=806472

I like your combo. 1760 (or 1800 w/88's), mildly ported stock valve heads, Weber 40IDF's, C35 cam, 1 3/8" exhaust will work if you don't do a lot of high speed driving.

Krusher has a similar 1800 (88 x 74), this is his dyno chart:

_________________

[Henrip]

Actually I was thinking in build a 74mm with 87 piston, stock valves only port work, C35 cam and a central Italian 40 for my daily drive...

Has anyone tried this setup before?
_________________
Bug 1959 (Sold)
Bug 1961 (Sold)
T2A Pickup 1970

[gt1953]

Stroker crank...not much more in cost over a counter weighted ballanced 69mm crank. 74mm or 76 mm. You will get more torque. You can then use 85.5 pistons and very little head work.
A 76mm crank with 85.5 pistons is a 1745cc. I actually have that in one of my cars it the Hot VW mileage engine.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[cookrw]

[DarthWeber]

Don't discount the 1835. With the thick wall 92's available from AA I believe they would be just as reliable as 90.5's.

Also, don't forget about a small stroker crank like a 74mm. That would give you 1968cc (or 1904cc with 90.5 P/C's) and would be a very reliable foundation to base your engine on.

As I mentioned before, the addition of carbs/heads/exhaust and cam will determine how mild or wild you choose to go.
_________________

[cookrw]

At this point, I am doing a hypothetical build to start saving up for. I would like to get a long-life engine with more power than a 1600, and a 1776 looks like it is the most reliable. So, budget is not a problem right now.
_________________
'71 Super 'Vert
'84 Vanagon GL (w/ Sunroof!)
'96 Jeep Cherokee