| Rear heater elimination options for coolant hoses |
| A) Remove heater and just block all the lines. |
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17% |
[ 7 ] |
| B) Connect coolant hoses together under the bench seat with a straight barb fitting |
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15% |
[ 6 ] |
| C) Remove T fittings under the Van and connect hoses together with straight barb fittings. |
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66% |
[ 26 ] |
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| Total Votes : 39 |
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SyncroGhia
Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2009
Posts: 2458
Location: Highnam, UK
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 Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:39 am Post subject: |
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If anyone has removed their rear heater and has a spare trim from the rectangular hole free... I'm looking for one.. or two!
Part no:255070235
Black rectangular trim that surrounds the hole that the heater comes through like this...
Thanks
MG
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:51 am Post subject: |
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Search the original Vanagon.com email list for valuable info that Dennis Haines posted in the 90s as to why you should remove the plastic Ts and not leave dead end coolant lines in your system when getting rid of the rear heater.
A hint as too why is that they fail about as ofter as the the gasoline bulkhead fitting in the engine compartment.
Get rid of 20+ year old plastic parts that have seen countless heat cycles 
RMW has nice upgraded Ts, reducers and straight connectors.
There is a direct correlation between having issues bleeding your system and having dead end coolant lines.
As it states clearly in Bentley, for the bleeding process all heater valves need to be OPEN.
Many use the rear heater loop in there conversion bypass.
If you have a conversion, a reversed coolant distributor and or don't actually know how your cooling system is plumbed...before removing anything, I would get up to speed on the layout. |
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presslab
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:42 am Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
Feel free to block my posts.
X and a number is like an .
Many use it here.
If you don't like my post count use a / and divide by whatever number you are comfortable with. |
All I ask is that if you have an "X2" type of post, is that you please share some additional valuable information from your experience, so as to increase the signal to noise ratio; also if you have consecutive posts please consolidate them into one post.
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1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
2010 Titus El Guapo --- 2011 On-One 456 Ti |
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Windig89
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Joined: September 22, 2011
Posts: 184
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Post whore!
Oops, I am one too now.
Thanks guys, lets keep this to the best method of removal, not a debate if one should remove it or not, or how many posts inSync has lol
Just pretend the decision is made to remove the heater, now which is the best method to execute.
Cheers,
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Feel free to block my posts.
X and a number is like an .
Many use it here.
If you don't like my post count use a / and divide by whatever number you are comfortable with. |
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presslab
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:16 am Post subject: |
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| goffoz wrote: |
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that  |
Are you sure this flow restrictor bypasses the valve? Bentley section 19.10 also says '83-85 "remove flow restrictor from inlet fitting of heater valve". With my Subaru conversion I needed to open the rear valve to provide this bypass function. Perhaps different years had a different valve setup.
| jrobewesty wrote: |
Yep, take a good look at a system before you assume anything on it.
Little things add up and can make a difference. |
Yes, I agree. Looking at the coolant flow diagram on 19.10, only the right head goes to the heater. If the bypass were required for correct operation of the engine, why would it only be on one head? So then, can you explain how this restrictor will make a difference?
What about the vans/trucks that don't even come with a rear heater from the factory?
Please, this response is pointless enough, but three posts? At least consolidate all your "X2"s into one post. Sometimes I wish the post counts were not shown like on some other forums; I think it would eliminate some frivolous posts.
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1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
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Ahwahnee
Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2010
Posts: 10305
Location: Mt Lemmon, AZ
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 7:11 am Post subject: |
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| goffoz wrote: |
...Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that |
Possibly to make it easier to successfully bleed the cooling system?
In any case, coolant bleeding / trapped air should be considered in whatever alternative you design. |
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Bruce Wayne
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Joined: May 15, 2007
Posts: 1210
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:46 am Post subject: |
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| remove it. first camping trip we took,it made a mess. yanked it out in the campground. never have passengers in the back,plus it doesn't get that cold in western Oregon anyway. front heater keeps it plenty warm for me. |
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vanagonjr
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2010
Posts: 3679
Location: Dartmouth, Mass.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:14 am Post subject: |
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| rubbachicken wrote: |
| i removed ours to gain much needed space, since we are never in the back with lucy running it seemed a waste of space. |
Same here. Had an air-cooled Vanagon before, so the heat from the front is great. I did option "C", although I originally blocked off the line with stainless steel bolts, cutting the threads off and clamping onto the unthreaded zone under the head.
Next plan is replacing the Weekender sloping plastic bulkhead under the rear seat with a vertical wood one. Every increase in space means less stuff in back that has to be moved around, although I may add 6x9 speakers in removable boxes in the new bulkhead since I already own them.
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:33 am Post subject: |
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| goffoz wrote: |
| presslab wrote: |
| Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether. |
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that |
X2 |
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:32 am Post subject: |
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| SSWesty wrote: |
| option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did. |
X2 |
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JPrato
Samba Member
Joined: December 15, 2006
Posts: 791
Location: Livonia, NY
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:25 am Post subject: |
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| SSWesty wrote: |
| option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did. |
Yes, and with new lines front to back and no clamps there is even fewer failure points. The added space under the seat is much appreciated. Here in the rust belt, if it is cold enough to need the rear heater, the Westy should be in the garage stored for the winter at that point!
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87 Syncro Tin Top project
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JeffRobenolt
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Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1531
Location: Wisconsin
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| Posted: Fri Sep 14, 2012 12:58 am Post subject: |
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Yep, take a good look at a system before you assume anything on it.
Little things add up and can make a difference.
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goffoz
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Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 1486
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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| presslab wrote: |
| Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether. |
Crack one of those valves open, and take a look inside
...you'll see they flow ,even when "closed"
Approx a 3mm. hole...I just figger thar may be a reason for that |
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kbeefy
Samba Member
Joined: March 10, 2006
Posts: 600
Location: Central Oregon
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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I did 'B' as an emergency repair on the side of the road, but if your ditching the heater I say cap or plug the lines at the motor and ditch everything. As presslab mentioned, whats the difference between a closed heater and a blocked off heater? Maybe theres a reducer in there that allows flow while closed, but I doubt it. Compared to the radiator the heater core is small potatoes.
I prefer the space, now that I'm not in a cold climate. If I was still in Alaska theres no way I would give up the rear heater!! |
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SSWesty
Samba Member
Joined: August 20, 2008
Posts: 735
Location: Bellevue
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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| option C reduces the number of failure points. That's my vote and what I did. |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52718
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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| I used to carry a U shape bit of soft tubing, either 1/2" or 5/8" OD ??? with a ferrules soldered on each end. The tubing was pinched in the middle. When the heater would spring a leak, which happened all to often, I would just slip the hoses into each end of the "U", apply the clamps, and be on my way. |
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presslab
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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Why put in a flow restrictor? If the rear heater valve is closed in the stock configuration, it's the same as having two capped hoses or no rear heater hoses altogether.
If you're lazy or want to put the heater back someday, just cap the two hoses. Otherwise pull the tees from under the van and put an inline barb fitting in both hoses.
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1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
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rubbachicken
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Joined: October 05, 2004
Posts: 3058
Location: socal
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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i removed ours to gain much needed space, since we are never in the back with lucy running it seemed a waste of space.
for now i connected the pipes together under the back seat, not the best, i will fix that soon when i get the system drained while working on the motor
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hdenter
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Joined: October 14, 2008
Posts: 2962
Location: San Luis Obispo, CA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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I am doing away with the rear underseat heater because it wastes vital space under the seat. I am replacing it with the DOKA/Diesel floor duct that draws heat from the front heater core. Since I will be going turbo WBX and expect to do some touring in the mountains in summer, I am considering a supplimental radiator to help keep things cool if it needs it. I just might utilize the rear heater's hoses or T fittings to do it. We'll see.
Hans
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