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Wash. DC '59 Swivel Project
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zuggbug
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome pics and buses
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BlastMasterMannyFresh
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
Classy pictures but why no tourists everywhere?


Nick and Dan called ahead.
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Classy pictures but why no tourists everywhere?
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, the swivel life is rolling strong in 2015 and beyond. Cool
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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
Touch Nicks Thing wrote:
Swivel Seat panels are for people with no friends Crying or Very sad
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CaLiBus
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two rare beauties hangin out!

You two make a great couple together!

Now bring that swivel over to California someday!
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60vwnewengland
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Joined: June 25, 2003
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Location: Cape Cod & District of Columbia
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2015 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cruising around with TouchNicksThing in DC

New York Ave, NW, Washington DC (Near Chinatown)
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National Mall
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2Pack
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's another guy that had the same problem with the fuse block.

Looks like it's not unheard of.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=515373&highlight=fuse+block
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

2Pack wrote:
Assuming you don't have power at the brake light switch then somewhere between that point and the battery there is a break in the circuit because there should always be power at one of the terminals as long as the ignition switch is on. You can use your new voltmeter to see if there's power at: either end of the fuse, the ignition switch, and the headlight switch.

Once you know were you do and don't have voltage you will be closer to finding the connector that I knocked loose! Smile


Big thanks to Lance to helping me figure out the brake lights. We concluded that the fuse box is spotty. We tested the #7 fuse multiple times each with mixed results. 12v at the front of the fuse... 12v on the back... no 12v on the front top of the fuse...no 12v from the rear top...etc. But after some testing and disconnecting and connecting all the wires we eventually got 12v at the front and rear of the fuse. It's a brand new WW 8 fuse, push on terminal box, so I don't know what the problem is? I'll order another, and solder the bridges together, and replace?

We also found that my push rod at the MC was not adjusted correctly, and the brake lights were constantly on. made a minor adjustment, and now all is good!

Hope to drive it to Litchfield if the weather is nice!
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2Pack
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming you don't have power at the brake light switch then somewhere between that point and the battery there is a break in the circuit because there should always be power at one of the terminals as long as the ignition switch is on. You can use your new voltmeter to see if there's power at: either end of the fuse, the ignition switch, and the headlight switch.

Once you know were you do and don't have voltage you will be closer to finding the connector that I knocked loose! Smile
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the volt tester suggestions guys. But what should I do to fix my problem? I'm going to spray electrical cleaner on the turn signal switch and check the solders. Then double check MC switch and push rod adjustment. What if none of this fixes the problem?
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71 Super Beetle
RIP TheWalrus (Big Jack) 1988-2024
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For period correct testing try out a Simpson Cool
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1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
Touch Nicks Thing wrote:
Swivel Seat panels are for people with no friends Crying or Very sad
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go to a better store, you want a Fluke or Klein Tools digital auto ranging multimeter. The extra few bucks will be worth it. Here's a radio shack branded fluke for $25 on eBay:
http://r.ebay.com/bEBVIy
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

Red Fau Veh wrote:
If you've seen one sunroof swivel seat kombi, you've seen them all! Cool
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60vwnewengland
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Joined: June 25, 2003
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pacmanfever wrote:
Be sure to test your Harbor Freight volt meter, I got one of their small red free ones and it's too squirrely to be of any use at all.

I'd hate to see someone blindly hunting wiring woes with that faulty meter.


Thanks for the heads up. I've been driving air cooled vws for over 12 years, time to finally break down and buy a volt meter...
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Pacmanfever
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be sure to test your Harbor Freight volt meter, I got one of their small red free ones and it's too squirrely to be of any use at all.

I'd hate to see someone blindly hunting wiring woes with that faulty meter.
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2015 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So CTS was great! Drove over 1,000 miles. However, at farmington, The ignition wire got pinched and fried the main wiring harness. drove back 450miles with some help from the guys.
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Ran a new wire from the coil to the fuse box and through the cab. Supervisor Manny, stepped up and offered his assistance. I then assisted Robert, and we got the bus running. In addition, the wire, melted in a weird spot in the main harness, and my brake lights were on constantly. Russ was a good friend and drove home behind me so that no one crushed my butt.

This weekend, I replaced the main wiring harness. CIP1 sells a wiring works main harness for $165. They had a code on the banner and I got 15% off, so I got the main harness for $150, and free shipping. What a deal!!

So, main harness went in, wired it all up, easily done with help from Russ and Lance. Thanks guys!! Bus runs great, turn signals work, running lights work. However, the brake lights do not work. Both tail lights are wired correctly, and have grounds running to the negative battery cable on the body. So the problem is not in the rear.

I touched the two wires at the brake switch that connect to the MC. no brake lights. I made an idiot light with a piece of wire and light bulb. Touched the bulb to a ground, and the wire to each wire that connects to the MC. No light. The fuse and connections all look good and tight.

I do not have a voltage meter. I'm going to HF next weekend and will pick one up.

Also, my bus has an 8 fuse, fuse box, and the bus is wired like a '62. No emergency lights or anything.

What's the next step. Is it the turn signal switch? How do I test that part? Switch at MC? How do I trace from the fuse box? General suggestions. One theory, is my push rod @ MC is not long enough?
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vw7266
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that bed doesnt need to work...youre not going to sleep in it when you got air b&b
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little WD40, body weight, and a literal "touchnicksthing" made it level! All is good!

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BlastMasterMannyFresh
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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2015 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CTS Ready
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

when you look at it you can see that the triangular-ish plate needs to rotate clockwise for this work correctly. It looks like it is binding? Wiggle it side to side?
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60vwnewengland
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PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

finally secured the z-bed. However, when the seat is in bed mode, it's not flat?
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Has this happen to anyone else?
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How do I fix this?
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