Gas tank resealing gone bad!

[jtauxe]

Thanks, Ray
I had not thought about the problem of hardware scratches making new points (and lines) for future problems. Good point!
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[raygreenwood]

Jtauxe.....just pull out the tube and sock filter.

D) NOT use piles of hardware and scrap to rattle around in the gas tank. This makes scratches in the metal. Not only are scratches weak spots in the surface which make formed metal MORE prone to cracking and rusting.....they are very tiny "valleys" ....into which the surface tension of most liquids are too high to "wet out", or flow down into. So this can leave very fine, bare, untreated and uncoated spots down in the scratches. It leaves space for oxygen and moisture to create more rust.

If you are using muriatic acid....there is no need to rattle hardware around in the tank. Muriatic acid will DISSOLVE....ALL rust.

If there is anything left after the muriatic acid acid step.....it's a combined stack up layer of varnish and or coating and or rust. You can then treat it with acetone or paint thinner. I use a long rod with a scotch Brite attached to the end along with paint thinner to get any stack up spots like this I can see through the filler neck and sender unit hole. Rinse then use muriatic acid one more time. Rinse and let it flash rust for a day or so. Then use OSPHO.

Ray

[MuzzcoVW]

[jtauxe]

I guess alternatively I could just take my chances damaging or losing the sock to hardware rolling around during the cleaning phase.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[busdaddy]

The pipe has a washer on it the nut was squeezing up against the screen, manhandle the pipe out and then pry the sealing ring under it out, the screen is part of the ring.

If it comes out in chunks it wasn't meant to be, both are available aftermarket.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[jtauxe]

[raygreenwood]

[busdaddy]

A 74 may or may not have a sock, it was deleted mid year....
Look at the outlet, if it has a biggish nut surrounding the nipple it has a sock, if it's just a welded in nipple it has nothing. Remove the nut to remove the nipple and sock, install a penny or some other disc in place of the sock and nipple (put the nut back on) when cleaning and replace the sock when finished.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[jtauxe]

I have a fuel tank that I've pulled from a wrecked 1974 bus. It has minor rust inside and out, and I intend to press it back into service. I will follow the advice of rinsing with muriatic acid and some sort of hardware to gather and treat the loose stuff inside, followed by a treatment with Ospho, and finally a coating of diesel for storage. The outside I will finish like any repaint job.

But I have two questions:

1) How do I protect the still-intact filter sock from damage during the sloshing hardware treatment? I'd hate to damage it.

2) And further, if it does become damaged, how does one replace the sock with a new one?
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[raygreenwood]

[Patrick Metsker]

My buddy who owns the radiator shop said:
“Easy peasy, bring it up get it back the next day”
tomorrow I drop it off

busdepot had these in stock as well
Fuel Filler Hose Part Reference Number 211201125D $19.95

I need to update my profile: 1978 Riviera Poptop 2.0

[SGKent]

maybe this is why I just paid a local shop who services gas tanks to clean and check mine. Did Colin's too - he had a very thick layer of varnish on his tank that required cleaning. Drop off in morning, pick up in afternoon. No chemicals to deal with, only clean tank.
_________________
George Carlin:
"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it."

Skills@EuroCarsPlus:
"never time to do it right but always time to do it twice"

[busdaddy]

[raygreenwood]

[busdaddy]

Thanks for the in depth explanation of the science Ray

But I think you are making it sound much more complicated than it needs to be, sure in a perfect world we'd end up with X microns of inert coating in the tank, but having done close to 100 tanks using the wrong strength materials and rushing the finish I have yet to have one get rusty again or cause problems, some have been in service for 25 years or more. The important thing is to buy good fuel and keep it fresh, most of the tanks we see in these threads have been neglected for a long long time, drive the bus, tractor, mower, whatever regularly and it won't be a problem.
YMMV.

Please don't take this the wrong way Ray, I respect your answers more than most of the posters here, I'm just saying there's more than one way to do it.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[raygreenwood]

[Abscate]

[Magion]

Thank you Ray. I appreciate you knowledge and input.

I looked it up and my muriatic is 31.74%. Yes i mixed it 50/50 with water.

I am trying to understand the process here...so you want to remove the existing layer of rust (that I had there) basically to create a new layer of rust that you’ll convert using convertor. What is to goal? To have it covered completely by flash rust? What would happen of I used phosphoric now?
_________________
1975 Westfalia in Brilliant Orange
1995 Westfalia in Caribbean Green

[raygreenwood]

[Abscate]

Bit off topic, but does the tub get filled just by slosh?

How much fuel remains in the tank when the tub empties?
_________________
🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🍊 🍊 🍊