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Ford regulator on VW alternator? It works!!!
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headhunter14
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford regulator on VW alternator? It works!!! Reply with quote

im having trouble grasping this. I have a 69 bug that came with a generator. I swapped the motor and it comes with a alternator with the 3 prong plug for the ext. regulator. So i buy the late model ford VR. I hooked it up in reference with the yellow sticky note, the problem im having is if i run the wire coming from the fuse box to the "A" terminal i dont have any power. if i piggy back the the "A" terminal with the positive battery post i have power but it dosent charge. i guess i, just confused.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Standard VR-124 or the Duralast VR-650 AutoZone.Com should also work and match the VW wire colors on the Motorola 8AL series Alternator.
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BenJAMin wrote:
You do realize that most Pintos had Weber derived carburetors that will fit a wide range of cars including many Fiats, Alfas, Lada, and even other American cars like Vegas.

I bet you think that your VW has a German carburetor. Even if it's an original Solex, it's French.
glutamodo wrote:
Next thing you know, you'll be wanting to run a Ford Pinto carburetor as well...


The Frenchman who invented the Solex was German on his mothers side Shhh
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BenJAMin
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do realize that most Pintos had Weber derived carburetors that will fit a wide range of cars including many Fiats, Alfas, Lada, and even other American cars like Vegas.

I bet you think that your VW has a German carburetor. Even if it's an original Solex, it's French.
glutamodo wrote:
Next thing you know, you'll be wanting to run a Ford Pinto carburetor as well...
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't_bug_me wrote:
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Thanks for the info. Very Happy
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

D/A/N wrote:
It might be helpful to someone who might need this in the future if someone said which Ford regulator to buy!

After all, you can't just walk into a store and say gimme "the inexpensive old style Ford external regulator".

Maybe a part # and a pic?


There's several threads on this, I've posted before, most fords between the years of 68-72 and quite a few others will work, even drew up a color diagram for a couple wiring options on here somewhere, this is why you need a electrical thread with dedicated stickies.
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Last edited by don't_bug_me on Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:31 am; edited 1 time in total
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D/A/N
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be helpful to someone who might need this in the future if someone said which Ford regulator to buy!

After all, you can't just walk into a store and say gimme "the inexpensive old style Ford external regulator".

Maybe a part # and a pic?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 11:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Ford regulator. I just did this. It works great Reply with quote

Jmoler1 wrote:
Ford regulator. I just did this. It works great!
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Very nice work. Thanks for taking the time to put that together.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know that my diagram is generic, but if you use the power wire going to the coil for the "A" connection on the regulator, then the only wire leaving the engine compartment is the "I" connection, on the regulator. going to the Negative side of your idiot light.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next thing you know, you'll be wanting to run a Ford Pinto carburetor as well...
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:50 pm    Post subject: Ford regulator. I just did this. It works great Reply with quote

Ford regulator. I just did this. It works great!
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazon sells those for roughly $30, and the cheapest on ebay was around $20, the Ford Regulators have been around for a long time, you can still get American made ones so you don't have to buy chinese, and they are always cheap and can be had at almost any parts store.

Yours does however provide another source, and you can never have too many.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you get one of these alternators like I did out of a 1974 Beetle it's always a worry that you can figure it out and find a regulator that will work for it. I sent off for one like the VR-124, The colors match to the vw Colors when wiring it up!
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VR-124 With Matching VW Wire Colors.
Standard Brand VR-124.

I found one on e-bay for like $15. which worked fine but it was a Wells VR-650. Looks like the same part.
The regulator gets it power from D+ on it's Red wire and supplies DF (green wire)which is the brush that is not connected to ground. D- needed to be grounded (brown wire) on mine as it floats when the brushes are well centered. The voltage regulator had no problem providing the 5 to 7 volts needed on the 5 ohm armature of the old Motorola VW Beetle Alternator. The Dash light in my 71 Bus works as excitation but it measured about 16 ohms it could be lower. But it all works fine. The Alt Dash indicator lamp also connects to D+. Just like in the schematic!
Regulator from Auto Zone.
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don't_bug_me
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
I tested an alternative wiring that also works. Rather than hooking the idiot light to D+, you can instead hook it up to the regulators I terminal, and it also works.

So basically Rich,s right hand diagram works. Couldn't get any charge without an idiot light to start the process.


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will do a proper diagram later using as mush of the wiring diagrams oem wiring color code as possible
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to hear, I'll get to work on a nice color coded wiring diagram for everyone soon, I knew it would work, was just a matter of testing out which way to wire it, my baja didn't come with a reg when I bought it, and has the Bosch 55amp external reg alt, first thing that came to mind was the Ford regulator. $15 vs way too much, no brainer!
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tested an alternative wiring that also works. Rather than hooking the idiot light to D+, you can instead hook it up to the regulators I terminal, and it also works.

So basically Rich,s right hand diagram works. Couldn't get any charge without an idiot light to start the process.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It works.

Here is the wiring:

Ford regulator

I Disconnected or idiot light (rather than D +)
A. Key on positive , such as ignition
S To D + on alternator and idiot light to positive key on
F. To DF


Alternator

D- To ground
DF. To F on ford regulator
D+. To S on ford regulator and through the idiot light to key on positive if you didn't hook a light up to the regs I terminal.
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Last edited by Northof49 on Sat Oct 12, 2013 11:14 am; edited 3 times in total
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

don't_bug_me wrote:
Northof49 wrote:
I will likely try it today. If you hook A & S together and feed them from the wiring harness, that will be the point in the system to which voltage is regulated. So if accessories like lights pull down the voltage on the wiring harness, the regulator will increase the voltage output of the alternator until that measured point is at the regs set point. Conversely if you hook S to stator, it will directly measure the alts output voltage. I am going to jumper A and S together and hook to key on ignition. That's how I had it on my pinto motor in my ghia.


if you get it done today, and it works as it should, hand sketch a diagram, and I'll put it on a regular wiring schematic for all to see.
Also, do you plan on wiring in the alt light, either through the reg or from the alt as I believe these alt's need it to function??


I will try it the simplest way, omitting the I connection on the regulator, and the D plus on the alternator. If that fails to charge, I will add a bulb from ignition to D plus and see if that is needed as an exciter. Some alternators need an exciter / idiot light to get the field started. I hear it depends on residual magnetism to work without it. Seems to me I have read posts on here where problems with that circuit caused failure to charge, so it's likely necessary.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 12, 2013 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
I will likely try it today. If you hook A & S together and feed them from the wiring harness, that will be the point in the system to which voltage is regulated. So if accessories like lights pull down the voltage on the wiring harness, the regulator will increase the voltage output of the alternator until that measured point is at the regs set point. Conversely if you hook S to stator, it will directly measure the alts output voltage. I am going to jumper A and S together and hook to key on ignition. That's how I had it on my pinto motor in my ghia.


if you get it done today, and it works as it should, hand sketch a diagram, and I'll put it on a regular wiring schematic for all to see.
Also, do you plan on wiring in the alt light, either through the reg or from the alt as I believe these alt's need it to function??
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