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Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead.
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joetiger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 8:28 am    Post subject: Re: Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead. Reply with quote

ben_in_bus wrote:
Great questions and ideas.

I have the 5 speed gearbox in my garage, intact and non-functional.
It would be fun to diagnose with an expert what went wrong after the jungle rebuild...and even restore so I could get the 5 speed back in the van. Do you do this work? If not, do you recommend someone who does?

For additional closure:

The details of that adventure are chronicled here: http://jokersinjubilee.blogspot.com/

and mapped here: http://jokersinjubilee.blogspot.com/p/our-map.html

Take care,
Ben


MR GAS Transmissions in (aka Greg Sayers) in Colorado Springs does 5-speed rebuilds, he might be able to help out.
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2022 8:21 am    Post subject: Re: Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead. Reply with quote

Great questions and ideas.

I have the 5 speed gearbox in my garage, intact and non-functional.
It would be fun to diagnose with an expert what went wrong after the jungle rebuild...and even restore so I could get the 5 speed back in the van. Do you do this work? If not, do you recommend someone who does?

For additional closure:

The details of that adventure are chronicled here: http://jokersinjubilee.blogspot.com/

and mapped here: http://jokersinjubilee.blogspot.com/p/our-map.html

Take care,
Ben
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2022 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead. Reply with quote

ben_in_bus wrote:
Just to put closure on this thread...
The rebuild was successful and is detailed in a long-format post:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=587363
Enjoy the ride.


I enjoyed the ride!
I'm curious what you did about the brinnelled 5th gear.
(axial depressions from the needle bearing on the gear and the shaft).
Did you replace the shaft and the gear?

This is caused by several things, which we're trying to learn about.
Some of the contributors are (in no particular order).

1) improper gear oil (too thin)
2) lubricant contaminated by water.
3) lubricant particle contamination (very small particles)
4) big engine
5) lugging the engine in 5th gear
6) worn parts, too much slop

and driver-style:

7) long-distance driving with steady perma-throttle with no "decel".
Cruise control can do this too. The idler gear needle bearing throws all the oil out and the gear never lifts off the face of the mainshaft bearing thus no new oil is allowed in.

So, do you see any contributors in the above list?
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 11:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead. Reply with quote

Thanks for the update! Glad to hear that it worked out okay. Super-sweet calculator watch!
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 7:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Bought 85 Joker Jubilee to drive home from Chile, now dead. Reply with quote

Just to put closure on this thread...
The rebuild was successful and is detailed in a long-format post:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=587363
Enjoy the ride.
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Waldemar Sikorski
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Find another 1.9 case in good condition. You've been given this link before http://www.westfaliat3.info/html/westfalia_t3_jubilee_edition_j.html and according to the info the Jubilee came carbureted or injected so your engine isn't so unique.
I've found this:

pianobrooks wrote:
I am new to the vanagons, having just bought an '84 westy with 95k original miles on the 1.9 engine. The engine had a slight head gasket leak when I bought it, so I took it in to the well-reputed Wolfsburg Motorwerks here in Seattle to take apart the engine and see what story lay inside. I was hoping to get away with just replacing the head gaskets but knew the situation could be much worse.

And here's the story: the heads are in great shape, and there is no corrosion at the jacket surface where the head gasket mounts. And the rods are in "surprisingly" good shape. So you might think I got off easy. . . but there is a catch.

At some point in the engine's life, it seems the engine was run with just plain water (or very very dilute coolant). Hence there is a lot of corrosion in the water jacket, and the critical component is those head studs - they are badly corroded. So much so that the worst of them are visibly smaller in diameter than they were when new. The mechanic is very concerned about this.

He has put it to me like this: if you reassemble it as is, there is a risk that the bolt(s) will snap when you torque on the head. You could aim for a lower torque, but that's risky as many of you know. Another option is to replace the studs. However he knows from experience that they will be near impossible to get out, because they will be so corroded in there at the base that they will snap when they try to extract them. So his only solution there is to tear it apart, send it to the machine shop, and have them cut off the studs and thread new holes for new studs. And this puts the total cost in the price range of a complete rebuild - $5k installed.

He said they could spend a bunch of time trying to gingerly extract the studs, but the shop time would add up to make it cost-prohibitive. So he favors a $5k (installed) completely rebuilt engine (which would turn it into a 2.2 I think - an improvement worth noting).

Guess what - we don't have the $5k! Any advice/suggestions? Should I try to extract the studs myself, or is that crazy? Should I take the risk of putting it back together as is? Is there any other solution?

Thanks for your ideas.


Important response:

tencentlife wrote:
The studs come out of 2.1 cases with difficulty, but it's near impossible to extract them from a 1.9 case. Scrap that one. Far far cheaper to get another 1.9 crankcase or core engine.

I have a few decent 1.9 cases, but shipping ups the cost, so see if you can locate a good case up there in the Vanagon-infested NW.


You might want to read this as well:


Quote:
Re: T25 1.9 Watercooled engine

Postby Mocki » 22 Mar 2011, 21:08

kevtherev wrote:

kevtherev wrote:Well if it is a DG engine it has DF inletting,



Bingo... Do I get the prize?



nope..... the heads are the difference,, and therefore the inlet manifold, and to-wit carb.

cant fit a df inlet manifold ( and therefore carb) onto a dg head.
so i suggest what we have there is a rebuild...... original dg casing, with df heads, carb and manifold.

anyhow, the df is ok, less numbers, but just as much go in the real world, and df's tend to live longer, cos less thrashing, as they dont peak rev so high with the smaller inlets.....

sorry!
Steve




From here:

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=37&...45[/quote]
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ben_in_bus wrote:
Over the last month, we have done the following...
-removed the engine, shipped to Santiago to WB expert.
-engine disassembled, blocks sent to expert to remove head studs.
-expert machinists, one after another, have attempted and given up on extraction. we are now preparing to work with a 5th machinist


Contact someone like Chris at Vanistan, or the folks at Suburban Engines and see how they remove the studs. They do it all the time so depending how mess up yours are after many attempts it may not be that hard to remove them. I would think that an induction heater might be the ticket. Don't know if anyone in Chile has ever seen or heard of one though.
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thoughts.
There is an engine for sale here in Chile but it is a different model.
We have the 'DG' engine.
Thanks again!
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I quickly checked Brazil, Argentina Craigs list etc. There must be other online or publication resources; I was surprised to see so few VW auto parts listings. I imagine you've searched but would still suggest finding a set of case halves.

@ all. Would having a seller remove the case head studs prior to shipping be a bad idea? It would obviously reduce shipping container size but then how many sellers would risk snapping studs?

Just a few thoughts.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ben_in_bus wrote:
No explicit plans to flip...but just considering that as an option as we already have 2 cars at home.


Ya wear a parachute ya plan on jumping Wink

Good luck with it all, bummer deal to be faced with these kind of choices right out of the gate. I won't tell you what I would do (see my sig Laughing )

Best of luck ahead for ya...
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No explicit plans to flip...but just considering that as an option as we already have 2 cars at home.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ben_in_bus wrote:
UPDATE - Mid-Feb 2014
All vehicle info at the start of the thread. Note: we aim to fix the van in Chile and drive back to the states.


Thanks everyone for the help some time back. Here is our current situation and a plea for advice.

Over the last month, we have done the following...
-removed the engine, shipped to Santiago to WB expert.
-engine disassembled, blocks sent to expert to remove head studs.
-expert machinists, one after another, have attempted and given up on extraction. we are now preparing to work with a 5th machinist

-in the meantime, I have done lots of other improvements to the van as suggested (fuel lines, brakes, cooling system, etc.).
-I flew back to the states and bought parts (engine rebuild and others).

Now I am in a situation where I am losing confidence that the extraction will be successful. Options are:
-keep waiting and hope for the best. get the studs out. do the rebuild
-find a used, similar waterboxer in Chile. rebuild it.
-ship in a rebuilt waterboxer from the states
-purchase and ship in a conversion kit (subaru or bostig).

I want to make the rebuild work for a number of reasons:
-I have already invested a lot of time in this
-I have already invested ~$600 in parts (and a flight) for the rebuild
-Our vanagon is rare (commemorative Joker Jubilee edition) and bringing it back to the states with an original engine would make it more valuable in resale.

Is sentimentality preventing me from realizing that the engine can't be fixed?
Should I persevere and keep working with machinists to extract the studs?
If no...what is the best step forward to you?

Thanks!
Ben


You mentioned resale, so you were just going to flip it?
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE - Mid-Feb 2014
All vehicle info at the start of the thread. Note: we aim to fix the van in Chile and drive back to the states.


Thanks everyone for the help some time back. Here is our current situation and a plea for advice.

Over the last month, we have done the following...
-removed the engine, shipped to Santiago to WB expert.
-engine disassembled, blocks sent to expert to remove head studs.
-expert machinists, one after another, have attempted and given up on extraction. we are now preparing to work with a 5th machinist

-in the meantime, I have done lots of other improvements to the van as suggested (fuel lines, brakes, cooling system, etc.).
-I flew back to the states and bought parts (engine rebuild and others).

Now I am in a situation where I am losing confidence that the extraction will be successful. Options are:
-keep waiting and hope for the best. get the studs out. do the rebuild
-find a used, similar waterboxer in Chile. rebuild it.
-ship in a rebuilt waterboxer from the states
-purchase and ship in a conversion kit (subaru or bostig).

I want to make the rebuild work for a number of reasons:
-I have already invested a lot of time in this
-I have already invested ~$600 in parts (and a flight) for the rebuild
-Our vanagon is rare (commemorative Joker Jubilee edition) and bringing it back to the states with an original engine would make it more valuable in resale.

Is sentimentality preventing me from realizing that the engine can't be fixed?
Should I persevere and keep working with machinists to extract the studs?
If no...what is the best step forward to you?

Thanks!
Ben
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CdnVWJunkie Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strange to see a twin barrel carb. I had a carb'd 1.9L in a DoKa years ago. It was a revised version of the Pict 34 as seen on late Beetles.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

.... and I will learn to count the images better. Wink

Carb rebuild parts **might** have interchanges with other VW carbs. Not likely, but if need be, you might find a resource for this? Just thinking ahead to parts availability.

Do any of the Bay buses use a Pierberg carb? I know the older engines used Solex carbs.

Neil.
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great ideas. I will certainly do the electrical clean-up.
I will number my photos to make responses easier.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the coolant going to part on carb likely has to do with the choke. Yes. Searched "vanagon Pierberg carb image" and found info. i.e.

http://onemanspanner.wordpress.com/2011/06/13/pierburg-2e3-on-a-vw-vanagon/

http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/2E3type.html

double check against model # of yours.

Did you keep the carb? (rebuild, reseal time?)
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ben.

Part between alt. and dist.: fuel pump. (edit) Part in RH of 12th image has an oil pressure switch and oil line so may be meant for an oil pressure gauge. Small hoses not connected at air filter are likely for the EVAP charcoal filter valve.

There appears to be two coolant temp senders. One in middle of image two and one in lower RH of image 9.

I'd suggest doing a visual inspection of wiring with electrical tape over it. This may be low on the list of things to do but worthwhile if the tape is easy to get at.

If you search clutch, transmission, or bell housing here, you should find info on some clutch housing checks you can do.
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ben_in_bus
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again for all the useful ideas and advice. Absolutely...during the rebuild I will focus checking, cleaning, improving many of the other systems.

A quick update:

-Yesterday my local mechanic helped me remove my engine. The process was fast as we had an opportunity to ship the engine to Santiago for a very low price...if we could get it out, boxed and to the truck in ~3 hours. We did it and there was only one ground bolt that broke located on the left head.

-The engine is now boxed and on its way to Santiago to be rebuilt/sealed by an experienced waterboxer mechanic.

-During the dismantle, I became increasingly concerned about getting it all back together again as the engine (as many are) appears quite different than the ones in the Bentley. Because my engine is the euro-factory carburetor (25? Pierberg), I have no reference to tell me if everything is done right. Does anyone know where to get manuals for carbureted vanagon engines (esp. online)? All this said, I am sure there are some customizations that were done (wires that do not connect to anything...) And what is the pump(?) between the oil tower and the distributor?

-I know the best thing is to just put this back together in the same manner as when I took it apart...but I worry that some of the existing system if a little slap-shot and I want to trust in the system. Any advice for improvements are welcome.

Here are a whole slew of engine photos to discuss:

Engine Overview after leak, but before dismantled.
Photo #1
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here are four images that are closer-up on the pre-dismantle engine.
Photo #2
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Photo #3
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Photo #4
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Note large airfilter and two strange disconnected tubes in the elbow between filter and carb cover. What were these for?
Photo #5
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


First image during dismantle
Photo #6
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Further dismantled:
Photo #7
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Photo #8
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


View of left side of engine. Note that the temp gage sender is disconnected and there is no place for the temp sensor as shown on the Bentley cooling diagram 19.8.
Photo #9
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Further dismantled:
Photo #10
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Carb from above. The mechanic suggest the choke did not look like it was working and there were a few wires that were not connected to anything.
Photo #11
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Location of sheared bolt. What is tubing and device in lower right? Also what is device between oil tower and distributor? Coolant pump/thermostat for carb? That was all it connected to.
Photo #12
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is more cooling plumbing for the carb (?) Is this custom? It is pretty corroded inside and the temp sensor (?) looks rusted in. The upper, shorter flexible tube went into the carb. The lower, longer metal pipe looks like it connected down to the heat exchanger tubing.
Photo #13
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


End of transmission...looking good?
Photo #14
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks again to all that help. I am learning so much from all of you.

Take care,
Ben


Last edited by ben_in_bus on Sat Jan 04, 2014 11:41 am; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hammy1 wrote:
You can order a proper exhaust

That *is* a proper exhaust he's got, just not the US/Canadian-market one most people are familiar with.

From ETKA, exhaust system for 1985 1.9l, engine codes DF,DG,EY,GW:

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