| Author |
Message |
surfnc
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006
Posts: 948
Location: OBX, NC
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
 Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2022 11:56 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
 |
|
| surfnc wrote: |
j1msm1th
If your body is gelcoat (which it looks to be) I use a DA with 120 or 80 grit. I then use a heavy coat of high build polyester primer. This will fill the pin holes scratches etc. I then sand that with 120 and a DA. (I hand sand the edges, DA the flats) I then shoot another coat to make sure all fiberglass is covered. Then guide coat and block sand with 320 or 400 grit. If you are going to flake it you can stop here. If you are going to use a solid color I would prime it with a primer that is compatible with the top coat. The poly will most likely be compatible but you need to make sure |
Hey - I just wanted to say that I finally got around to starting to glass in the dash, and while I am not 100% sure I am doing a bang up job of it, I did want to say thinks again to you and the others in here that post these threads and offer advice and such. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 2:43 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
hmmm... how much good beer? because last time I tried that I got drunk and decided to start building a deck. then i got to spend the next several weekends fixing what I started building....
I have been trying various ways to get the hood and dash to play together nicely, but I think that my hood has a slight twist to it.
I did finally get it together ok today. I got some random flat bracket i had sitting in the garage, cut it in half, then used washers and machine screws to attach it to the hood, and from there I was able to hang the dash off the new metal tabs nicely. you can see what I mean with the twist in some of the pics. trying to get everything even-ish, I measured to the center of the hood and the dash, then 6" in on each side of both. then on the outside of the hood and dash I measured to the bend, marked 7" because that seemed to be about the right spot, then marked 3 1/2". I could get a lot of it lined up pretty nicely, but that one side is off by about 1/4-1/2 a inch...
and if you are wondering about the bungie cords, please note where when i was trying to use the Harbor Freight welding clamps, one popped off and now i have a big chip in my new dash. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
clonebug
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4130
Location: NW Washington
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 5:45 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| j1msm1th wrote: |
| clonebug wrote: |
Although my buggy is not a Manx......When I picked it up in a field in 2002 it had the dash cut off from the hood.
It was a puzzle as to how to make it fit back on and over the years I have come up with a solution and made the dash solidly permanent with some bent flat 16-18 gauge steel and another piece of angle for the hood to rest and bolt to the dash.
I can remove the hood in about 30 seconds by removing two bolts and then lifting the hood off for complete access to all my wiring and my fuel tank.
I have EFI and a LOT of wiring plus I am an old goat and there is no way I would want to crawl under the dash to work on it.
some pics........maybe you can use the ideas and make it work for a Manx. I'll be at Big Bear if anyone wants to see it up close. I'll even pull the hood off for ya if you want.....
How I got the Buggy and hood......
The two bolts that hold it on now.....
The dash braces I made to really firm up the dash and make it solid....
The angle steel that the hood rests on and bolts to....
The wiring I need to access easily......
The added braces i put in and it all installed supporting the dash.....
|
thats awesome, but also looks waaaaaay out of my level of know how... |
I bought a little 6 inch vice brake and while it does have it's limitations it will bend a lot of thinner gauge steel. I use it quite often.
All you have to do is sit and stare at it for a few nights and sip on some good beer while doing so.......you will come up with a solution. And if it isn't quite what you want......use it till you come up with a better solution.
I just can't imagine having to work under a Manx hood. I'd probably give up and sell it...... 
I had to come up with a solution because the hood was already cut. It took a lot of years to get the windshield as solid as it is now with the bracing I added.
I started out with just one metal brace cuz the other side was fiber-glassed to the body. I ran it that way since 2004.
I just installed the second side and added the flat 1 inch pieces to really firm it up now.
It used to flex back almost a 1/2 inch at speeds of 75 mph plus....especially in heavy head winds.
_________________
| richardcraineum wrote: |
| I'm so ignorant of efi I don't even know the difference between batch, sequential blah blah blah .. |
| cbeck wrote: |
| His user name in a previous life was dick head. |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
clonebug
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4130
Location: NW Washington
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 5:36 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| EVfun wrote: |
| clonebug wrote: |
Although my buggy is not a Manx......When I picked it up in a field in 2002 it had the dash cut off from the hood.
It was a puzzle as to how to make it fit back on and over the years I have come up with a solution and made the dash solidly permanent with some bent flat 16-18 gauge steel and another piece of angle for the hood to rest and bolt to the dash.
I can remove the hood in about 30 seconds by removing two bolts and then lifting the hood off for complete access to all my wiring and my fuel tank.
I have EFI and a LOT of wiring plus I am an old goat and there is no way I would want to crawl under the dash to work on it.
[snip]
[snip] |
Wow, you've got more wiring in that buggy than mine did when it was the electric beach buggy! Now I've got a 2 fuse 12 volt wiring harness.  |
It has a few options.......  
Someday I'll clean it up better since it's been added on to for the last 10 years.
But it all works and I can get to it easily.........
_________________
| richardcraineum wrote: |
| I'm so ignorant of efi I don't even know the difference between batch, sequential blah blah blah .. |
| cbeck wrote: |
| His user name in a previous life was dick head. |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
EVfun 
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 6351
Location: Seattle
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| clonebug wrote: |
Although my buggy is not a Manx......When I picked it up in a field in 2002 it had the dash cut off from the hood.
It was a puzzle as to how to make it fit back on and over the years I have come up with a solution and made the dash solidly permanent with some bent flat 16-18 gauge steel and another piece of angle for the hood to rest and bolt to the dash.
I can remove the hood in about 30 seconds by removing two bolts and then lifting the hood off for complete access to all my wiring and my fuel tank.
I have EFI and a LOT of wiring plus I am an old goat and there is no way I would want to crawl under the dash to work on it.
[snip]
[snip] |
Wow, you've got more wiring in that buggy than mine did when it was the electric beach buggy! Now I've got a 2 fuse 12 volt wiring harness.
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2021 1:46 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| clonebug wrote: |
Although my buggy is not a Manx......When I picked it up in a field in 2002 it had the dash cut off from the hood.
It was a puzzle as to how to make it fit back on and over the years I have come up with a solution and made the dash solidly permanent with some bent flat 16-18 gauge steel and another piece of angle for the hood to rest and bolt to the dash.
I can remove the hood in about 30 seconds by removing two bolts and then lifting the hood off for complete access to all my wiring and my fuel tank.
I have EFI and a LOT of wiring plus I am an old goat and there is no way I would want to crawl under the dash to work on it.
some pics........maybe you can use the ideas and make it work for a Manx. I'll be at Big Bear if anyone wants to see it up close. I'll even pull the hood off for ya if you want.....
How I got the Buggy and hood......
The two bolts that hold it on now.....
The dash braces I made to really firm up the dash and make it solid....
The angle steel that the hood rests on and bolts to....
The wiring I need to access easily......
The added braces i put in and it all installed supporting the dash.....
|
thats awesome, but also looks waaaaaay out of my level of know how... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
clonebug
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2005
Posts: 4130
Location: NW Washington
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 7:56 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
Although my buggy is not a Manx......When I picked it up in a field in 2002 it had the dash cut off from the hood.
It was a puzzle as to how to make it fit back on and over the years I have come up with a solution and made the dash solidly permanent with some bent flat 16-18 gauge steel and another piece of angle for the hood to rest and bolt to the dash.
I can remove the hood in about 30 seconds by removing two bolts and then lifting the hood off for complete access to all my wiring and my fuel tank.
I have EFI and a LOT of wiring plus I am an old goat and there is no way I would want to crawl under the dash to work on it.
some pics........maybe you can use the ideas and make it work for a Manx. I'll be at Big Bear if anyone wants to see it up close. I'll even pull the hood off for ya if you want.....
How I got the Buggy and hood......
The two bolts that hold it on now.....
The dash braces I made to really firm up the dash and make it solid....
The angle steel that the hood rests on and bolts to....
The wiring I need to access easily......
The added braces i put in and it all installed supporting the dash.....
_________________
| richardcraineum wrote: |
| I'm so ignorant of efi I don't even know the difference between batch, sequential blah blah blah .. |
| cbeck wrote: |
| His user name in a previous life was dick head. |
My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
BL3Manx
Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2006
Posts: 6768
Location: Northern California
|
| Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2021 11:57 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| j1msm1th wrote: |
| I dont know why, but at some point the plastic dash that was made to screw into the hood, and made the hood separately removable was replaced by this fiberglass version. I got the drop-down version of the dash to help with wire access (in theory) but I do agree with it being way simpler to access things if I could just take the hood off. If i were better at this sort of thing, I was actually thinking about trying to mount a piece of steel along the inside edge of the dash, and making the hood removable, but, that is a bit (WAY) beyond my skill level here. |
If you have the drop down dash, it is much, much easier to just remove 5 screws and pass the metal instrument panel (with all switches, instruments and wiring in place) back through the hole in the center of the dash and then remove the hood, dash and windshield as a unit, leaving the instrument panel in place.
To do the same with the old ABS plastic dash would have required removal first of the windshield, then removal of 12 small difficult to reach nuts and screws, then removal of the highly fragile ABS dash from the frame
I agree the steering column support-windshield support frame should fit better. You should provide your feedback directly to Meyers Manx |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 11:55 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| additionally, I will say that i am surprised at how poorly my new dash frame will fit in the hood & dash. It's to the degree that I may have to have it cut apart and trimmed and re-welded. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
surfnc
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006
Posts: 948
Location: OBX, NC
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 9:35 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
I spoke to Bruce about this and it was definitely a problem. (access to wiring, tank and steering) That is why he made his new Kick-Outs and his Manxters with an opening hood.
_________________
LOOKING FOR VINTAGE MEYERS MANX STUFF!!!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1105228 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 8:31 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| dhubz wrote: |
| What is the reason for this? Not taking away from it, I think it looks great, much cleaner than what I have. On the 2 that I have worked on, the dash panel is separate, meaning once I remove the windshield and hood, I can access all the wiring from the top. Also the steering column can stay in place. Do you have multi wire connectors to disconnect the dash from the wire harness? I feel like it would be a lot harder to work on with it as a single piece. |
I dont know why, but at some point the plastic dash that was made to screw into the hood, and made the hood separately removable was replaced by this fiberglass version. I got the drop-down version of the dash to help with wire access (in theory) but I do agree with it being way simpler to access things if I could just take the hood off. If i were better at this sort of thing, I was actually thinking about trying to mount a piece of steel along the inside edge of the dash, and making the hood removable, but, that is a bit (WAY) beyond my skill level here. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
surfnc
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006
Posts: 948
Location: OBX, NC
|
| Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2021 5:56 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
I would agree that it was the way the Manx was designed.
I would also agree that it is much easier with a separate dash and hood.
_________________
LOOKING FOR VINTAGE MEYERS MANX STUFF!!!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1105228 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
KAmes
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2014
Posts: 917
Location: Illinois
|
| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:31 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| dhubz wrote: |
| What is the reason for this? Not taking away from it, I think it looks great, much cleaner than what I have. On the 2 that I have worked on, the dash panel is separate, meaning once I remove the windshield and hood, I can access all the wiring from the top. Also the steering column can stay in place. Do you have multi wire connectors to disconnect the dash from the wire harness? I feel like it would be a lot harder to work on with it as a single piece. |
I have wondered this too, as my dash is separate also. Just the way a Manx is designed? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
dhubz
Samba Member
Joined: July 02, 2003
Posts: 61
|
| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 11:44 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| What is the reason for this? Not taking away from it, I think it looks great, much cleaner than what I have. On the 2 that I have worked on, the dash panel is separate, meaning once I remove the windshield and hood, I can access all the wiring from the top. Also the steering column can stay in place. Do you have multi wire connectors to disconnect the dash from the wire harness? I feel like it would be a lot harder to work on with it as a single piece. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 8:20 am Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| surfnc wrote: |
j1msm1th
If your body is gelcoat (which it looks to be) I use a DA with 120 or 80 grit. I then use a heavy coat of high build polyester primer. This will fill the pin holes scratches etc. I then sand that with 120 and a DA. (I hand sand the edges, DA the flats) I then shoot another coat to make sure all fiberglass is covered. Then guide coat and block sand with 320 or 400 grit. If you are going to flake it you can stop here. If you are going to use a solid color I would prime it with a primer that is compatible with the top coat. The poly will most likely be compatible but you need to make sure |
yeah, It's gonna get flaked. It's the original Gelcoat, when I got it and realized there was flake under the brown primer I had high hopes for it, but there are spots where the gel is just shot. but I did find five lb buckets of the meadowbrook golden orange in 0.008 and 0.015 for $20... so it's gonna get repairs and then an idiot is going to attempt flaking! though, ironically my recovering Goth wife is very unsure about me with glitter in our yard.
thanks for the advice! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
surfnc
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006
Posts: 948
Location: OBX, NC
|
| Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 2:39 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
j1msm1th
If your body is gelcoat (which it looks to be) I use a DA with 120 or 80 grit. I then use a heavy coat of high build polyester primer. This will fill the pin holes scratches etc. I then sand that with 120 and a DA. (I hand sand the edges, DA the flats) I then shoot another coat to make sure all fiberglass is covered. Then guide coat and block sand with 320 or 400 grit. If you are going to flake it you can stop here. If you are going to use a solid color I would prime it with a primer that is compatible with the top coat. The poly will most likely be compatible but you need to make sure
_________________
LOOKING FOR VINTAGE MEYERS MANX STUFF!!!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1105228 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j1msm1th
Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2020
Posts: 32
Location: Upper Darby, PA
|
| Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2021 12:21 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| surfnc wrote: |
| Keep in mind the windshield frame and seal will cover all that. |
yeah - that is what I am thinking - I might knock down some of the lumps to see if i can get it a little closer to get it as square as I can.
oh - while I am picking your brain - what is your process for prepping the fiberglass to seal/primer etc? should I be hand-sanding the body, or a random orbit of DA? what grit do you use? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
EVfun
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012
Posts: 6351
Location: Seattle
|
| Posted: Mon Jun 07, 2021 3:05 pm Post subject: Re: Glassing on a Manx Dash |
|
|
| calebmelvin wrote: |
Done! They are now one.
|
I love the simplicity of that dash. Stock speedometer, light switch, and ignition switch. We don't need no stinkin wipers. 
Going with an aftermarket GPS speedometer means I had to add 4 warning light holes on my current buggy.
_________________
| Wildthings wrote: |
| As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
surfnc
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2006
Posts: 948
Location: OBX, NC
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
