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The Stupid Question Thread
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 7:38 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Yes you have to remove the door pull, door card and main window glass and then remove the complete vent window. There's a screw at the top rear edge of the vent Window's frame hidden under the felt channel that gets removed, and a bolt at the base of the vent window frame that holds the lower frame to the metal door panel. Remove these then you sort of tilt the vent window frame back and pull it out. It can be fidgety, careful not to damage the scraper. Then you need to remove the vent glass from the frame to remove the old seal and install the new one.
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whodunititmate
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 7:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
whodunititmate wrote:
To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out?

That's not a stupid question at all.

However, not detailing what year and whether sedan or convertible keeps that in this category...

And explain "quarterlights" for those in USA please.


I can see how that bit of info missing would keep it in this category, or the one of smart question/stupid owner. The car is a 72 super sedan. Quarter lights being the push out bits of glass in the doors.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

whodunititmate wrote:
To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out?

That's not a stupid question at all.

However, not detailing what year and whether sedan or convertible keeps that in this category...

And explain "quarterlights" for those in USA please.
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whodunititmate
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2025 2:35 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

To change the rubber seals for the vent window/quarterlights in the doors do I need to pull the door apart completley or can I get away with removing the rivet that forms the hinge (for lack of a better word) and lifting the assembly out?
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 5:04 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

OldSchoolVW's wrote:


My opinion ... black to pick up on the trim and wheels would look sharp.


Local survey results: Black wins 6:1.
Proceeding accordingly.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
A little help?

What color should I paint the bumpers?

SEM Trim Black (to match body moldings)
or
Seymour Stainless Blast (semi-gloss gray metallic)?


My opinion ... black to pick up on the trim and wheels would look sharp.

Maybe post a a survey in this forum?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=646ca8ae012d090c5c54bcfd7123f7f8
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BCE56
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2025 12:27 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

A little help?

What color should I paint the bumpers?
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


SEM Trim Black (to match body moldings)
or
Seymour Stainless Blast (semi-gloss gray metallic)?
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2025 6:39 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Tahlequah wrote:
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-88mm-x-69mm-Forged-Slip-In-p/mahlet188f.htm
has this kit been discontinued? if not, how do i find it? please help, ive got engine tore down and from best i can tell this i the kit they had in it.

Consider a slip-in 87mm cylinder and piston set; this will have slightly thicker cylinder walls - which some like - and will fit right in.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2025 2:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylinder-Set-88mm-x-69mm-Forged-Slip-In-p/mahlet188f.htm
has this kit been discontinued? if not, how do i find it? please help, ive got engine tore down and from best i can tell this i the kit they had in it.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:51 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

This may not be the best place to ask but...

What is the center to center length of the trailing arms on the king and link pin front end?

Thanks!
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BIGMIKEY
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2025 11:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

BCE56 wrote:
What would cause front disc brakes (Empi conversion) failure to retract/remain in contact with rotor?
During a short drive yesterday, I noticed reduced pedal free play, brakes were dragging. Discs were very hot.

No previous issues since professional installation 6K miles ago.
Rear drum brakes apparently not affected. Parking brake functions normally.


As pads wear more of the caliper piston is out of the bore. Corrosion can form and keep the piston from retracting. On my Girrling calpers the rubber boot disintegrated allowing moisture to corrode and jam the pads against the rotor. Might want to look into that too.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Gents!!
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:44 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

From hazetguy in the gallery:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:36 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
Look at the ebrake lever attached to the left brake shoe. See the pin at the top? Your part goes on the back side of that pin to keep it from falling out of the brake shoe. It is pinched together at the ears slightly to hold it into a groove on the pin.

That "horseshoe clip" goes on the hidden side of the pivot pin highlighted with red arrow in this photo.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These clips typically get re-used every time one installs new rear brake shoes. The clips and giant cotter pin do not come with a set of rear brake shoes, unfortunately.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 7:03 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

NachoCar wrote:
what/where in rear stcok brakes does this sucker go? Fell out as I was using BFH to switch drums out.
Thanks
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Look at the ebrake lever attached to the left brake shoe. See the pin at the top? Your part goes on the back side of that pin to keep it from falling out of the brake shoe. It is pinched together at the ears slightly to hold it into a groove on the pin. (picture from 70'DerpyDerby)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2025 6:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

what/where in rear stcok brakes does this sucker go? Fell out as I was using BFH to switch drums out.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2025 5:47 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PNW PAUL wrote:
This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on?

You might want to check what sort of intake manifold you currently have on your car. IIRC, some of the CA bugs w/ catalytic converters had heat risers on the intakes w/ two holes on each end, rather than the usual one hole at each end. You’ll need the muffler and intake manifold to be compatible at this connection point (i.e. the heat riser to muffler connection).

Note that you can always consider switching out your intake manifold & heat riser assembly if necessary, to match the more commonly available “standard” mufflers.
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2025 12:08 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

PNW PAUL wrote:
Hi All. Just acquired a 1977 sunroof beetle with relatively low miles.

This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on?


Just something to consider ... though Washington no longer has emissions tests, it is illegal to drive a vehicle with modified emissions equipment. ( https://ecology.wa.gov/air-climate/air-quality/vehicle-emissions/emissions-check-ends ) I doubt switching the exhaust would create any DMV issues while you own the car, but it might become an issue when you sell the car. Just something to be aware of.
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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2025 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi All. Just acquired a 1977 sunroof beetle with relatively low miles. It has amazing potential to be restored back to its former Bahama Blue glory. This is my first of likely to be many questions to the knowledge base of all things Beetle!

This was a California car and thus has a catalytic converter. The exhaust is rusted out, and I'd like to install a non-catalytic muffler. Is there any adaptation needed to do this, or will the removal of the existing system allow the new muffler to be bolted on?

Many thanks in advance!
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PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2025 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks vamram. Valid point, why change things that worked when parked in 1993.

I'm sure the check valve is ok-ish since it was parked with ethanol free fuel. Thanks past self.

Of course question #2 has already been answered on thesamba and it serves a purpose.
Introduction to throttle positioner and altitude adjuster!

Progress this year on the 71 super includes:
Fuel
Carburetor rebuild
Fuel tank cleanout
New fuel lines
Brakes
Master cylinder
New soft lines
Pads
Wheel cylinders
Upholstery
TMI basketweave

Next up is to finish bleeding and adjusting the brakes, clean the points, throw in a battery, some fuel, and see if it will run. It still needs a lot of work. Probably needs a different motor since this one has excessive endplay, clutch chatter (bowden tube?), front suspension rebuild and tires. This is a California car that moved to the midwest sometime in the late 70's or 80's. I purchased it from the original owner with 85K OG miles.
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