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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 33445
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2021 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Gdwilson001 wrote: |
| Reviving an old thread. I recently pulled the starter in my 64 bus. In doing so I struggled with removing the top starter bolt as my 6v starter does not have a D shaped bolt or an extension on it that would hold a D-shaped bolt in place. |
Just get a helper to hold the bolt end securely at the starter; that's what we did in the old days.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Gdwilson001
Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2020
Posts: 18
Location: Goleta, CA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2021 10:37 am Post subject: |
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| Relyt wrote: |
Image from Asiab3
Here you can see the "D" is supposed to wedge against a piece on the starter. If yours no longer has a place to wedge it against I would suggest replacing it with a normal head bolt and getting help tightening it down.
What I did to hold it in place is to put a piece of electrical tape around the shaft right next to the head, it's able to wedge it into the hole enough to let me start tightening it. |
Reviving an old thread. I recently pulled the starter in my 64 bus. In doing so I struggled with removing the top starter bolt as my 6v starter does not have a D shaped bolt or an extension on it that would hold a D-shaped bolt in place.
See the picture. Mine is on the right side and a D-shaped set up is on the left.
My question: are these features (D-shaped bolt and ridge extension) on most 6 volt starters or just 12? I’d hate to buy a replacement only to encounter the same issue.
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williamM
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 4343
Location: southwest Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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| johnnypan wrote: |
showoff... |
We found more of those while doing oil/filter jobs- people would put them on and then forget them- I even bought one off Snap and soon it was missing- yup gone down the road on a clutch job.
Something bout "Yahoo job done" that makes you forget your tools.
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some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.
opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.
Don't step in any! |
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wuwei75
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2014
Posts: 264
Location: OKC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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| johnnypan wrote: |
| wuwei75 wrote: |
| johnnypan wrote: |
showoff... |
what is that and where do I get one? |
specialty tool made by Hazet for VW..
Ive got a Hazet brake spoon..it feels right, using Vw tooling for Vw repair.. |
I bet. that is a must have. will have to locate one. thanks.
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1974 Super Beetle (Jill)
1972 Fastback (Maude) |
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johnnypan
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 7431
Location: sackamenna
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:30 pm Post subject: |
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| wuwei75 wrote: |
| johnnypan wrote: |
showoff... |
what is that and where do I get one? |
specialty tool made by Hazet for VW..
Ive got a Hazet brake spoon..it feels right, using Vw tooling for Vw repair.. |
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wuwei75
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2014
Posts: 264
Location: OKC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Harleyelf wrote: |
I use a welder's pointy vise grip on the D bolt. It will seat in the correct position once you begin to tighten the nut.
Do you have the pressed-in nut on the upper right? The bolt should not need a nut on a car as young as yours. If there isn't room under the car you might consider rolling the two left wheels up onto the curb from the edge of your driveway. |
hi there
I got a bolt and used an extra long ratchet extension and got it on. the engine side has a built in nut. all is well now...
Brett
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1974 Super Beetle (Jill)
1972 Fastback (Maude) |
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Harleyelf
Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2009
Posts: 1573
Location: Appleton, WI
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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I use a welder's pointy vise grip on the D bolt. It will seat in the correct position once you begin to tighten the nut.
Do you have the pressed-in nut on the upper right? The bolt should not need a nut on a car as young as yours. If there isn't room under the car you might consider rolling the two left wheels up onto the curb from the edge of your driveway. |
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wuwei75
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2014
Posts: 264
Location: OKC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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| johnnypan wrote: |
showoff... |
what is that and where do I get one?
_________________
1974 Super Beetle (Jill)
1972 Fastback (Maude) |
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wuwei75
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2014
Posts: 264
Location: OKC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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| Tim Donahoe wrote: |
Can I assume that, after taking the photograph, you pushed the inner edge of the seal down (under) the edge of the engine tin?
Tim |
hi Tim
the engine tins are not in it right now. gotta put her all back together...
Brett
_________________
1974 Super Beetle (Jill)
1972 Fastback (Maude) |
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Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11809
Location: Redding, CA
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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Can I assume that, after taking the photograph, you pushed the inner edge of the seal down (under) the edge of the engine tin?
Tim |
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johnnypan
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 7431
Location: sackamenna
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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showoff... |
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wuwei75
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2014
Posts: 264
Location: OKC
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| Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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hi all,
I'm very happy to say that I did NOT have to remove the engine to get the seals in. This pic shows the engine seal. The firewall seal is done also.
My method:
1. Spray channel and rubber insert with silicone spray
2. Line up the bottom edge and then use a screwdriver to get the top edge into the channel.
Also got my bolts secured and now all 4 are torqued correctly.
That's it. Took my 30 minutes total.
Thanks for all your help.
Brett
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1974 Super Beetle (Jill)
1972 Fastback (Maude) |
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pb_foots
Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2010
Posts: 1089
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:56 am Post subject: |
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Well, there you go.
FWIW, I've used both tape and putty to hold the bolt in, but I prefer the putty mostly because it just falls off as the bolt is tightened and I don't have to crawl under there to peel off tape.
the key is to have clean fasteners. A couple seconds with a wire wheel on that bolt will make a huge difference. |
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 80390
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:57 am Post subject: |
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| pb_foots wrote: |
| Was the engine installed in the pan before the body was dropped? |
Yes
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
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עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי |
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pb_foots
Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2010
Posts: 1089
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 5:38 am Post subject: |
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| gjetson wrote: |
Plumbers putty? Really? Somehow I don't think the
guys on the assembly line used plumbers putty.
Do as Cusser suggested and you will have no problems. |
Now I'm curious. How did the guys on the line install this bolt? I really don't see VW designing a fastener that requires two people to assemble, doesn't make sense.
Was the engine installed in the pan before the body was dropped? |
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EvileNV
Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2010
Posts: 161
Location: Boulder City, NV
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:52 am Post subject: |
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I just rest a small sledgehammer on top of the transmission and it holds the bolt in place, just don't forget to grab that hammer when you're done!
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69 Beetle, 64 GMC 1000 (1/2 ton), 59 Ford Ranch Wagon (for the wife and kiddos), 92 Motorhome for vacationing. |
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Dwayne1m
Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2011
Posts: 3543
Location: Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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| I used duct tape to hold the bolt. Worked fine for me. Just have to be gentle when you start the nut, and as you are turning the nut pull the bolt towards the fan housing to keep it locked into place on the starter. |
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Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11809
Location: Redding, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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Plumber's Putty is cheaper 
And that guy who built the VW in Germany didn't need plumber's putty because he was not alone. So, until I can rent a neighbor's kid to come over and stick his finger on the back side of that "D" bolt, I will keep making my little snakes ... and smiling at how well the trick works when there's no one else around to help me.
The only time I got any help from my girls was when I needed someone to pump the brake pedal after I put in a new master cylinder. 
Tim |
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Glenn
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 80390
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Relyt
Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012
Posts: 1006
Location: WA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Image from Asiab3
Here you can see the "D" is supposed to wedge against a piece on the starter. If yours no longer has a place to wedge it against I would suggest replacing it with a normal head bolt and getting help tightening it down.
What I did to hold it in place is to put a piece of electrical tape around the shaft right next to the head, it's able to wedge it into the hole enough to let me start tightening it.
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69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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