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tencentlife
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Joined: May 02, 2006
Posts: 10154
Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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baltik
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Joined: April 08, 2015
Posts: 443
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 Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 9:19 am Post subject: Re: Installing A Fresh Air Shut Off Flap |
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I just purchased my Vanistan kit, though have yet to install it.
I am also curious about the recirc flapper valve and how effective it is. In theory the fan should still be able to circulate air even with the outside flap closed. Would love to hear some real world experience on this, not to mention the recirc flap looks to be the most painful part of the install |
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tencentlife
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Joined: May 02, 2006
Posts: 10154
Location: Abiquiu, NM, USA
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Russpauly
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Joined: January 13, 2019
Posts: 134
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:27 am Post subject: Re: Installing A Fresh Air Shut Off Flap |
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| kguarnotta wrote: |
Hey Dave - really nice work - great documentation.
I'm looking at this - and also vanistans mod. Trying to find a way to improve the stock heat and reduce the air from the highway coming in my van. For some reason the city air is not as interested in getting into my van  |
Lol. I have this exact same problem with freeway driving. Only the air seems to be directed far enough up towards the visors, which then happens to flap slightly downwards to my face. 
_________________
1988 Wolfsburg Edition - TinTop
2.1L Watercooled
The Space man Van |
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kguarnotta
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Joined: April 01, 2004
Posts: 1207
Location: Woodstock, NH
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| Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:03 am Post subject: Re: Installing A Fresh Air Shut Off Flap |
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Hey Dave - really nice work - great documentation.
I'm looking at this - and also vanistans mod. Trying to find a way to improve the stock heat and reduce the air from the highway coming in my van. For some reason the city air is not as interested in getting into my van
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-Kevin
Lincoln, MA
2001 Eurovan
'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32988
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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zak99B5
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Joined: December 21, 2014
Posts: 471
Location: Albany, NY
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| Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:18 am Post subject: Re: Installing A Fresh Air Shut Off Flap |
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I think I need to do this mod. Driving the van at temps in the single digits gets pretty cold.
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1991 Tintop GL Manual tranny, EJ22 |
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shizzon
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Joined: July 25, 2006
Posts: 600
Location: Boulder, CO
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| Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 10:37 pm Post subject: Re: Installing A Fresh Air Shut Off Flap |
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This is an awesome mod that I hope to do when I get around to doing the big dash project at some point in the next year....
I have a few questions:
1. Is it really necessary to add the cabin air intake (with 1-way valve) as you did? my understanding is that when the blower motor turns on (and when the van is still), it pushes the forced air flaps closed and recirculates cabin air anyways? so if you are driving and you have the outside air intake shut off, shouldn't the heater box basically be exactly the same as if you are sitting at a stoplight?
2. In the end, you did block off the driver's side air intake completely, right?
thanks!
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy |
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danfromsyr
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Joined: March 01, 2004
Posts: 15410
Location: Syracuse, NY
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| Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:04 am Post subject: |
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WHY VW had this function in 68-79 Bay buses and discontinued it in the Vanagons I'll never know.
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| Abscate wrote: |
| These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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dhaavers
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Joined: March 19, 2010
Posts: 8519
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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| Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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_________________
86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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?Waldo?
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Joined: February 22, 2006
Posts: 10124
Location: Where?
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| Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 7:35 am Post subject: |
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Great work Dave. The ability to switch between recirc and fresh air on-the-fly is a very nice improvement over the stock design.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site. |
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djkeev
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Joined: September 30, 2007
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Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Paulbeard
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Joined: July 10, 2015
Posts: 2611
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
FYI.....
Modified heater box?
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Excellent news…installed already?
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs
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djkeev
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Paulbeard
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Joined: July 10, 2015
Posts: 2611
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Ok,
The unit is reassembled. I used the recommended clips, VW Part #321-819-059, eleven are required.
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I just drilled through the tabs and ziptied it all together. There were no clips on the original when I pulled it. I did have to cut the box apart where the larger tabs had been melted together with some solvent: they were almost seamless.
| djkeev wrote: |
Sadly, one of these heater flap retainers is missing...... It works fine without it but it would be nice to locate one........
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Both of these fell out of the passenger vent on mine today: I just contact-cemented them back in place. Since they won't be under any stress, they should stay in place now. Without both of them, I suspect you'll lose the other one as the control rod gets used.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs
— dhaavers |
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Paulbeard
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Joined: July 10, 2015
Posts: 2611
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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| dhaavers wrote: |
^^^ Might your blower be wired backwards...??? 
I'd describe a properly functioning blower on defrost as "just-shy-of-hurricane" force...
(Apologies to Katrina survivors...) |
The thought had crossed my mind. I can feel air moving now that I have the vents sorted so it seems to be functioning properly. Wiring this one was simply connecting two spade connectors to the plug that was already there.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs
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Wildthings
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Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52672
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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You want the bottom lever moved all the way to the right for maximum airflow out of the other vents. The bottom lever shuttles air to the back vents when in the open (to the left position) and by the time the air reaches there it will be at approximately the temperature of the body shell. Very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter.
The side vents on the dash have their own built in control flaps that don't always work all that well. There is an old thread where I showed my solution for this, the fix has worked well for quite a few years at this point.
Depending on the model year these side dash vents will have either ambient air or heated air. |
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dhaavers
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Posts: 8519
Location: NE MN (tinyurl.com/dhaaverslocation)
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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^^^ Might your blower be wired backwards...???
I'd describe a properly functioning blower on defrost as "just-shy-of-hurricane" force...
(Apologies to Katrina survivors...)
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS> |
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Paulbeard
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Joined: July 10, 2015
Posts: 2611
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:03 pm Post subject: My solution: not for everyone |
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Well, the heater control valve I ordered arrived and that was the work of ten minutes to install. Not able to control it from the dash panel as the cable isn't long enough. I ended up cutting it as low as I could in the doghouse since I couldn't see any other way of getting it. Then I couldn't use it anyway.
I tested the new blower fan and I couldn't feel any air to speak off, not for the amount of noise it was making. I put a shop vac in the fresh air opening and turned it on. Nothing coming out of the vents.
So I got under the dash and manipulated the various levers by hand and found that the cables were binding such that the cable ends were working loose from the lever at the dash or at the flap lever. It became apparent that friction fittings fail after a remove and replace cycle or two. The cables were slipping out of the correct location or just not getting the job done. The flaps could be actuated by hand. So I disconnected all of the cables. The heat control was already done. The footwell vents can stay closed. All that remained was the "defrost" lever and whatever the bottom one is supposed to do.
The "defrost" setting I can just leave on full time as all it does is direct air, heated or not, to the windshield. I suspect that it will not work all that anyway as the vents are too far from the windshield for the blower. I guess Germany must never see any frost, based on these design decisions.
My needs are simple: fresh air, heated or left at ambient temperature.
If I can get a spare heater box to experiment with, it might be worth trying to salvage the concept of this. But I'll live with what I have for now. There are other things that offer a bigger payoff that whatever those levers are supposed to do.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs
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alaskadan
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Joined: January 09, 2013
Posts: 1957
Location: anchor pt. alaska
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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So if i make some flaps that i can manually close right at the point where the heater box contacts the body while another flap opens for recirc air would the inner flaps that just hang there be needed anymore? After thinking about it more they are likely needed when the blower is turned on?
Last edited by alaskadan on Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:43 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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