Distributor 113905205T rebuild *PIC Heavy*

[tasb]

You are correct 1.5 width braid is common. I just grabbed a stock internet image.

The 111 distributor series ends used an islet rather than the welded to nut.
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Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[Pruneman99]

I also use the de-solderig braid to fix the ground straps. But off hand I think I use something a little thinner 1 - 1.5mm maybe. I use a trigger style soldering gun with a little flat tip. It needs to get very hot, very quick so the plate doesn't suck the heat out. The pencil type won't get nearly hot enough. But with a quality trigger style gun I have no issues securing the wire to the plate just prepping the surface with some flux.

For the other side, I got some square nuts from the local hardware store and dress one edge before soldering.

[Chickensoup]

[heimlich]

[Chickensoup]

[tasb]

[quote="Jimbug57"]I just disassembled my spare 113 905 205 M. The felt pad was hardened gunk - hard to remove. I made a new pin to hold the cap clamp on, but I can't get the ends of the broken one out. It still works though.

The hard part for me on these is getting a new ground strap made and installed. I'm going to try a torch on the breaker plate because my soldering iron doesn't get hot enough. I could use some help on the correct way to be doing this.


Yes, I currently have 63 x 113 T cores without an attached ground strap and another 38x 113 M's without one or alternatively an ugly home brew assembly involving a screw drilled hole in the plates. What I (need to) do s liberate the points plates and take them to my old timey radiator repair shop. They braze new leads on them that I make using desoldering braid. Solder as you've found, is not hot enough.

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Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[Glenn]

[sb001]

[Glenn]

Not needed.

I've re-rebuilt a few that i've removed it from for customers that were building new engines and wanted it to look "fresh" all have plenty of oil and not wear.

It's just a wick to keep the shaft, between the bushings, moist. Mercedes and Volvo had a oil port added to the boss on the cast iron models, but VW/Porsche/BMW/SAAB did not.

After 20+ year and thousands done, i've not had a single reported problem.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[Pruneman99]

Looks like I opened a can of worms with the felt discussion. There seems to be some disagreement if it should be replaced or left out. I can see pro/con of each method so I guess it's going to be up to the restorer to decide.

The more important thing I was trying to point out is to not leave the old one in there like I've seen people do because they were unaware of it. I think wether or not you replace it, everyone can agree the old one needs to be fished out and cleaned well.

[Glenn]

Yes, if they were meant to last forever, Bosch would not of made replacements.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[sb001]

When those fiber washers disintegrate:


Link

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I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

[heimlich]

[wcfvw69]

[Chickensoup]

question... I completely rebuilt my late 40hp dizzy about a year or so ago.

I replaced the main bushing with one sold from VWNOS. The bushing was way to tight, and didnt fit at all once in the bore of the distributor body. So i ended up polishing the shaft which helped some, however when i turn the rotor it still feels too tight.

I believe the material is a bronze of some sort. Should i run it and see how it feels after break in? Or take everything back apart, remove the bushing, and make my own?

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-'85 c10 5.3 LS, cam, heads, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'01 e46 325ci *tree modded
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP

[Jimbug57]

I just disassembled my spare 113 905 205 M. The felt pad was hardened gunk - hard to remove. I made a new pin to hold the cap clamp on, but I can't get the ends of the broken one out. It still works though.

The hard part for me on these is getting a new ground strap made and installed. I'm going to try a torch on the breaker plate because my soldering iron doesn't get hot enough. I could use some help on the correct way to be doing this.

I can see Bill's point on the pad, however, I have a new felt from VWNOS. Not sure what to do there. I can't imagine Bill would steer you wrong. I don't need to decide right now. I will be installing a Compu-Fire module in this one. I'm running another 205 M with points and condenser in my single port currently.

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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[wcfvw69]

If those fiber felts were needed and critical Bosch would not have discontinued using them in their distributors. Having restored well over 1000 1974 and later distributors that don't use the felts, it's extremely rare to find measurable wear on the bushings or on the shafts of the distributor. And, I measure the bushings and shafts with snap gauges and micrometers. I don't go by feel. I have changed maybe four worn shaft bushings in 1974 and later distributors due to measurable wear due to extreme high miles or a clogged oil inlet to the distributor. One was a rarer distributor that required me to machine the mainshaft on my lathe and then make custom bushings due to the shaft being undersized after the machining. I've also had to bore out a few cast distributor bodies on my lathe that did not originally come with bushings due to excess wear in the cast body bores. I then made custom bushings with tight tolerance bronze rod.
I recently restored a German Bosch 009 distributor that the owner said had at least 200k miles on it. The German 009's also did not come with those fiber pads either. The shaft mic'd out perfect as did both the upper and lower bushings. The shaft looked brand new. It only required a polish.
People should do what they are comfortable with. Myself? I'll continue to remove those filthy, quickly contaminated bearing killers.
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40+ years of VW repair, and VW parts and vehicle restoration experience.
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[Jimbug57]

I use this 1/8" punch with a BFH to remove the drive dog pin.

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Repeat after me "I am smarter than metal!"

[heimlich]

[Glenn]