It started with a thump... AAZ diesel help needed

[Team WorldTour]

I didn't got to take any pictures today, but I did get a lot done.
Swapping out the tank straps, one of the bolts broke.I had to drill it out and retap it. The drill bits at this shop were all burnt and dull. And they don't have a drill sharpener.
So, yeah. It took a while.
But the tank is back in and connected, the trans is mounted on both ends, and the timing belt is back on. All I have left is to remount the timing covers, the accessory belt, the battery, the wheel wells and wheels, and the skid plates.

Easy peasey, Boss.
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1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Team WorldTour]

Yeah, the pictures are not everything to be seen.
I can say, for sure, that both mains were leaking.
The jury is still out on if the intermediate shaft seal is leaking too, but I doubt it. There are clear lines of oil from the leaks.

I think this is pretty definitive for the front main though.

The bits of timing belt were melted through the front main.

You can see the black on the inner surface of the seal.

I appreciate you helping me work through this.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

I feel like you don't quite get what I was saying. It seems like you are definitively stating that you KNOW where the oil is leaking from. In my experience you might and you might not.

Regarding this pic:

[Team WorldTour]

Mr. Libby- Yes, the valve cover IS one of my four oil leaks (there is one for each side!).
Today, I got a new seal for the front main, reused the alu piece.
Indeed, the part in yesterday's photos is for the rear. Got that swapped out today too. Leak #4 is from under the oil pump housing (filter attachment). That has been dealt with as well.
My valve cover is going to be a tricky one. The center bolt is stripped. More specifically, the alu piece that it threads into is stripped. I'm considering tapping it to M8, but I haven't thought that one through yet. It's still in idea stage.

As I write this, my fuel tank is finished and awaiting reinstallation (after I deal with a broken bolt). Three out of four leaks have new seals on them and properly torqued. And the transmission is waiting to be reinstalled.
With any luck, I will be driving it home tomorrow.
Fingers crossed!
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[epowell]

[?Waldo?]

The leak at the trans could be from any/all of the following: valve cover, vac pump, oil galley plug or rear seal.

The leak at the timing belt side of the engine could be from the following: valve cover, cam seal, intermediate shaft seal, intermediate shaft o-ring, oil galley plug at int shaft (not exactly uncommon after rebuild), or crank seal.

The seal you show from Bernd is the one at the flywheel end of the crank.
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I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Team WorldTour]

So, yesterday, I took my van to a do-it-yourself-shop (on Base), and got him up on the lift

I wanted to hunt down my oil leak

It seems that I have three leaks.
#1- Valve cover

#2- Rear main

#3- Front main

I'm posting this bit here because of what I found when I (finally!) got the crank pulley off. Enjoy!

THAT is very melted timing belt bits!

It even managed to work it's way under the seal, and into the oil pan!

The parts I ordered from Bernd Jaeger were NOT correct!

Also on the job order is fuel tank service.
I need to replace some hoses

Now I'm off to start day two of this project. More later....
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Waldi]

lol
thats all for you

[?Waldo?]

Those are both bad recommendations indeed. The valve in the first pic simply makes the wategate react more or less slowly but does not accurately control max boost. The second is even worse. While that adjustment bolt will change the spring pressure acting on the wastegate valve, it will also limit how far the wastegate valve is able open. It will give 1-2 psi of adjustment before it will limit the open position to the point that boost will spike at higher rpms because the wastegate valve can no longer open far enough to vent the excessive exhaust gases. You might be able to get to 11 psi before boost will spike much higher at high rpms. BTDT and its a waste of time and effort.

In contrast, the ball/spring type of controller that I recommended completely prevents boost from reaching the wastegate actuator until the desired max boost pressure is reached. At that point it very accurately controls max boost for all rpms. The max boost pressure is adjustable to whatever setting you desire.
_________________
I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Waldi]

Here the 2 ways to increase you pressure, Nico.
I am not trying to convince you to anything, just showing/saying the pro and contras. I realy dont care what you do, as long i am not working on your van.

[Waldi]

Starting agaion going on my balls ?

[?Waldo?]

Waldi, when you turn to personal attacks and insults, do you think it helps you get your point across on a technical forum? Do you think that it convinces me or other members of the forum that you are right? Do you think that it shows that you are intelligent, knowledgeable, kind, mature, and worthy of being listened to? Do you think that insulting me makes you look good and makes me look bad or the reverse? These questions are rhetorical, no need to answer any of them for my sake but it might help you out to consider them for your own sake.
_________________
I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Waldi]

I am talking about a manual boost control.
You can buy it in a pet shop for 2,- €
And i did nowhere say to block the wastegate.
It will block itselfe if the oil--water mix get frozen in the tubes.
But as always you dont even try to understand what i say.
Just playing your own disc over and ever.

[?Waldo?]

I don't know what a 'boost venttil' is. It sounds like you are talking about a simple air bleed. Those are not a very good idea. I would recommend using an adjustable ball/spring type boost controller.

Running with a blocked wastegate and adjusting max pressure by adjusting fuel is indeed a 'senseless' way to go about it. The end result would be worse performance and worse efficiency than using a manual boost controller and adjusting the fueling properly.

Save your insults for another day, Waldi, I have no interest in another 'senseless' exchange with you. Good luck with your van Team World Tour. I'm done.
_________________
I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Waldi]

The adjustable turbopressure wit h a boost venttil,with is senseless for comon users, as you need only once to set the right pressure with the right fuel amount. Changing turbo pressure without seting the right fuel amount is senseless.
I havie it installed but i am testing alot with different setups.
If you , Nico, will do this, go to a pet shop and buy a smal l meta(Wasserhann) for aquariums. It is 2,- €. But you dont need it.
A problem is also, that with time you will get water and oil inside the tubes and in winter it can froze and disangage your wastegate.

[?Waldo?]

[Waldi]

You need a turbo pressure gauge.
You need to put a second spring into the blowoff or a stronger one if you have the JX intake. Edit: Or you block it fully in some way.
You indrease the pressure when you turn the screw on the wastegate in.
For this you need a 3mm "imbus" a 10mm "gekröpften Ring".
Loose the 10mm screw, hold the screw with the ring key and trun the screw 2 revs in. Drive and check pressure. Every wastegate is a bit different, i think you will need 4 revs or more.

[Team WorldTour]

[?Waldo?]

Very good.
_________________
I am a high-functioning autistic into VW diesels and Vanagons along with other things that are unrelated to this site.

[Team WorldTour]

I tightened the cam bolt after the tensioner bolt.
This is the way I was taught to do it.
And it seems logical to me as well.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!