1.8t Engine Swap.... I Think?

[UtahGOgear]

Okay- got the motor mount made out of metal by taking some 1/2” plate and welding on thick tubing as spacers to put bolts through that go into the block. It’s all steel now.

Got a 1.5” GoWesty coil spring lift kit on it with the longer ball joints. Those ball joints did not want to come out, it took an air chisel to get them to lift up out of place. I also put two half inch spacers on either side in the rear just for a bit more clearance of the motor and I’ve heard the rear springs from Gw can sag with time. I like how it looks, handling a little different but I’ll get used to it.

Put in a new power steering fluid reservoir and line to the pump. The old one cracked when that passenger side motor mount failed on me and the motor dropped down.

New hot start relay as the old one busted as the ground wire was on the bulkhead/firewall and busted.

New canvas installed, started doing it with the top in place then removed the top because it was a lot easier that way.

New utility boxes on the side- I’m confused on why GoWesty has these weird water line connectors going on. I tried to convert their new box to work with the lockable tank fill cap but it has a weird fitting with an o-ring and a check valve ball maybe I missed the update in no longer using a garden hose to run tank fill and city water connections??

Got the scan gauge 3 hooked up. Can’t figure out how to add boost gauge (I’m on the most recent update?) and the xgauge says Audi/vw has no gauges. Not sure exactly how to set it up to take advantage of its invocations over the scan gauge 2 but I’ve got coolant temps, o2 sensor reading, rpm, and a few others that are more than I really needed but fun to see. I found the MAF was completely not working and would kill the motor when it read out (incorrectly) sporadically. I had it unplugged and it was fine. New MAF is in and reading according to scan gauge. It idles a lot lower and smoother now with that input over its default map with MAF unplugged. Maybe this is why the previous owner who we sold it to years ago said it was running rich?

Took it a little off-road and it was so much fun! I really don’t think there’s anything else for me to do on it except take it out for some adventures! I’m sure some more adjusting and re-working things will be in order as time passes but for now I’m very happy with how it sits and I’m ready to put it to the test.

Kind of sketchy mounting power steering reservoir on intercooler piping clamps but it does seem like it will work and is the best place to have it.

I forgot, the fuel gauge wasn’t working so I dropped the tank and re-sealed it with the Gw kit and changed the sender while I was in there and it now works! Yay! No more spilling gas all over when filling up nor running out of gas not knowing it’s out!

Shots of the motor:

Off-road adventure was a success.

I got these plates before buying a rolled Syncro from auction and I kind of feel bad. It is a joke though, like if it’s rolled over then it’ll read roll over right side up. It was funny at the time but kind of unsettling now.
_________________
RIP:
'82 Westy a/c
'82 Westy 1.6D
'78 Transporter Moon Roof Camper Conversion
'78 Westy Restoration
'85 Westy 1.8T AEB 50* w/adapter plate
'87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
'91 1.8T ATW 50* w/diesel components
Currently enjoying:
'97 Eurovan Winnebago

[UtahGOgear]

[GoEverywhere]

Whoa, that seems like a super weird failure. Presumably that mount worked fine in it's stock chassis. Were you putting any weird force on it that wasn't present in stock form?

[UtahGOgear]

I finally got everything put back together! Turbo clocked with intercooler and intake plumbing in place. Clearance is a lot better on the cold side turbo tube. Lowest point is the turbo oil drain line fitting at the oil pan.

I took it out for a test drive and it was amazing! Bled the coolant which went well- it’s now a closed system that should bleed its self. On the second test drive disaster struck! I heard a bang and then wide open throttle- my pedal hit the floor. It was running away so I killed it and pulled off to the side of the road. I got out and noticed the engine had fallen

It broke on where I bolted the motor mount arm to the stock arm that comes off the block. The stock one is aluminum. When I went to take it out I noticed every single bolt to the block was only a few threads in. Could that have done it? Or was putting this leverage with my steel mount what did it? The bolt didn’t break off- it broke clean off right after the bolt on the block side of the arm. What the heck? Too bad all these bolt holes are at different levels/elevation. I was going to slap a plate down and cut the holes and weld onto it but this looks a bit more involved with the different levels the bolt holes are at. I can’t find a steel motor mount arm either or else I’d just replace it with a steel one and welt onto it to the piece I made. I’m glad this happened going somewhat slow on a non busy street. Someone mentioned my welds potentially failing and breaking and causing a hazard. I know my steel mounts won’t fail, but this factory aluminum one did probably because I put weird leverage on it. So I’m kind of torn on what to do but likely I’ll have to make a metal section and weld it solid and bolt it to the block. Any other ideas?

_________________
RIP:
'82 Westy a/c
'82 Westy 1.6D
'78 Transporter Moon Roof Camper Conversion
'78 Westy Restoration
'85 Westy 1.8T AEB 50* w/adapter plate
'87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
'91 1.8T ATW 50* w/diesel components
Currently enjoying:
'97 Eurovan Winnebago

[GoEverywhere]

[UtahGOgear]

[GoEverywhere]

[UtahGOgear]

Thanks guys! It took forever but unbolted everything and let the trans mount decide where the transaxle will fall, double checked measuring cv axle play and angles. I was off by a bit. Adjusted the passenger side and the driver side was about 3” too short. I got that driver side mount tacked into its new spot and it measures and looks dead centered. I took all the mounts off and welded them solid and painted them with rustoleum 2 in 1, three coats. Now I need to get some hardware to get everything secured in there and we’ll be set to mount it in the right spot. I was shocked at how different the clearance was when it was centered, a lot better than before! The throttle body sits just above the deck lid. I have a metal deck lid I’ll weld a little box over where the throttle body needs clearance and I’m confident it won’t be felt with the bed pad on top of it.

I have a new borg Warner ko3 turbo (it was hard to resist the temptation to upgrade to a ko4!) and a new oil pan and new oil drain tube that’s a lot bigger and should be a straight slight drop to the pan which is better than what’s there now.

Then a new configured exhaust, as well as intercooler piping redone (don’t let me forget to clock the new turbo!).

I’m excited to see the motor sitting under the deck lid. Hopefully we can button it up before summer break!

_________________
RIP:
'82 Westy a/c
'82 Westy 1.6D
'78 Transporter Moon Roof Camper Conversion
'78 Westy Restoration
'85 Westy 1.8T AEB 50* w/adapter plate
'87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
'91 1.8T ATW 50* w/diesel components
Currently enjoying:
'97 Eurovan Winnebago

[uberaudi]

Mark nailed it...start with the tranny mount and bolt that up. Looks like you already have the poly insert so that's only going to help line it all up. Use that mount as a pivot and lift the entire assembly (engine and trans) until you have it where you want it paying close attention to the side to side cv measurements.

That's great that you're picking up the mig gun, but you may want to practice on something that's not as critical as engine mounts until you get the hang of it....racks, bumpers, brackets are all great beginner projects. If one of those mounts breaks while you're driving, you and whoever else is on the road is going to be in a serious situation. A great option if you're in a time crunch is to tack them together once you reorientate your engine/trans, then bring them to an experienced welder to burn them in.

Should be fun once it all comes together though!
_________________
'84 Adventurewagen 1Z TDI, '08 Audi Avant Quattro 6spd BHW TDI

[MarkWard]

Looks like a lot of fabrication. The stock transmission mounting is to be trusted. All other mounting should be fabricated around the transaxle. I’d level the van side to side, then measure the angles of the CV drive flanges. Engine angle is less important. It should when bolted up, not put any bind on the transaxle mounting. If this is a syncro it’s even more critical to maintain output flange angle and “centerline” with front differential.

[UtahGOgear]

Hey guys! I could sure use some help. I’ve re-mounted the motor inside the van under the deck lid. It does not have much clearance but I do plan on lifting it. That’s beside the point- I’m very unsure about the placement of the transaxle. It looks to me like it’s hanging down about an inch or more on the drivers side. Like it’s sideways. I wonder if I have to re-fab my beautiful mount on that side (see pics I got carried away) or do I put a spacer in or how do I clock the motor and trans back over effectively? The mounts are in and seem like they’ll work after I trim them a little and paint them etc. does the transaxle fit flat? I imagine it does. I’m basing the tilt by the two bottom bolts on the trans where the bell housing bolts on as well as the cv axles. Also, one is longer than the other by like 2” according to Bentley. Do I measure off the transaxle or is it shifted off to the side like it’s mounted off a bit on the trans mount? I know something is off. What do you guys think?

_________________
RIP:
'82 Westy a/c
'82 Westy 1.6D
'78 Transporter Moon Roof Camper Conversion
'78 Westy Restoration
'85 Westy 1.8T AEB 50* w/adapter plate
'87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
'91 1.8T ATW 50* w/diesel components
Currently enjoying:
'97 Eurovan Winnebago

[dobryan]

What a blast from the past! Looking forward to more posts.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[UtahGOgear]

Hello friends! It's been about 6 years since this van fell into my lap. The first motor swap I had gotten myself into, I remember being excited, confused, and hopeful that it would one day hit the road. Throughout those 6 years a lot has happened! Most notably (and relevant) we sold this van and let me tell ya- ever since then I've dreamt of the day when I might have the opportunity to buy it back. (SPOILER ALERT- It's back baby!!!)

When I saw it on a local Facebook page for vintage VW's here in
Utah I was shocked. I'm rarely on Facebook so it was pretty crazy to log on and see this here van for sale or trade! The guy we had sold it to has a really neat splitty that he's focusing on and decided to let it go. I guess he got a lot of trade offers right off the bat but as soon as I saw it I told him I'll head over with cash! The price was just right, and I headed over with the trailer to pick it up. I knew it needed work as it has sat for the last 3 or so years. Jumping back on here I saw that he had put a BOV and re-did the exhaust completely. I also noticed maybe there are some transmission issues and the turbo I had bought off eBay so long ago might be giving out.

Over the past 6 years I had always looked back on this van in my memory and thought about what I might have done differently as I accumulated knowledge and my understanding grew. After we sold this van we had ended up going through two deluxe splitties, a vr6 eurovan, and a few more vanagons. Also a $500 sage green split window westy that we restored and sold off. Good times, but none had put a smile on my face as much as driving this 1.8T swapped Vanagon. The pewewew of the turbo flutter, the much desired power, looking down at an odometer that read under 30,000 miles... it was our "forever van" and right now I'm convinced it'll be with me until the day I die! I look forward to solving some issues like my shotty intercooler piping job, getting it going again, and who knows! My son was just a baby when we bought this project and now he's 6 and picking this van up with him was an extremely heartfelt experience. He's got a younger brother now too and I'd really like to work on this with them and go camping in it.

I'm not perfect, and I respect and understand that we all see things differently. I look forward to any and all insight as to how to make this a reliable van and do things with it better this time around. I like the exhaust the PO put on it, the one I had on was like 3.5" and went straight out the back which I thought sounded cool but it wasn't really practical. I'm not sure about the BOV the PO installed... it might need adjusting. I actually really liked the pewewew sound the turbo made when off the pedal. I personally don't think that turbo shutter or compressor discharge or whatever it's called is harmful to the turbo... but if this BOV can act as a diverter valve returning the air back to the intake post mass air flow sensor then I don't really mind, maybe it helps reduce spool time? Although thinking about it I don't see how that air would help much.... I'm not sure! Will have to think hard about that... or adjust it because PO seemed to find it running rich which the unmetered air might have to do with that if it's going to atmosphere. I guess we'll see! I'm getting ahead of myself!

I want to thank everyone again who helped out previously with this van and to reach out to you guys once more to continue asking for help and insight as I work to get this van done up right. What is the first thing you'd do? What do you think I need to work on? What's worth upgrading while I'm in there?

My goal is to get it running around 250hp with a bigger turbo lower boost to keep as reliable as possible. My thoughts are get it running, see if it's rich/adjust the BOV see that helps, eventually re-route the intercooler piping, I'd like to get a T3 Super 60 or GT35R turbo and run like 15 psi of boost to keep it reliable but more power. Probably will need to tune it (or more realistically bring it to someone who can). Obviously the grilles need to be put back on, the tent canvas changed out (the PO bought a new one he included) and odds and ends for the van it's self, but the main focus is the motor at this point. I'm hoping that the exhaust was rattling against the transmission and that it's not the transmission that's got a problem.I need to figure out a cleaner deck lid solution but ideally I'd lift it a little and drop the motor down, probably the transmission as well to clear the deck lid after the piping is no longer hanging down.

Here are some photos of what I've been up to since last active on the forums! Mostly the eurovan, a few vanagons, got into airstreams, even a 4x4 econoline. I hope you are all enjoying the holidays!

_________________
RIP:
'82 Westy a/c
'82 Westy 1.6D
'78 Transporter Moon Roof Camper Conversion
'78 Westy Restoration
'85 Westy 1.8T AEB 50* w/adapter plate
'87 Syncro 2.1 WBX
'91 1.8T ATW 50* w/diesel components
Currently enjoying:
'97 Eurovan Winnebago

[Vanagon Nut]

[tristessa]

Steel pan would bolt to the AEB/ATW blocks just fine. I wouldn't use it with the 012 transmission (5 speed reverse-rotation setup) because it would leave part of the flywheel exposed, but with a KEP adapter you'll fine.

I've never had a problem with the alloy pan scraping, but I don't try to go rock crawling either.

[Vanagon Nut]

[Wellington]

What would be the advantage of a steel oil pan over the AEB aluminum pan?

[Vanagon Nut]

[tristessa]

[Vanagon Nut]