GoWesty Throttle Body with automatic weirdness

[SCM]

[bettingonvans]

GW says you can pretty much just throw away the plastic cover and do the adjustment there. Procedure the same as OEM; drawback is you have to remove it to do this, but that's not a big job.

I don't have a reason to fault GW on the throttle body yet. The initial improvement over my original was pretty impressive. I love the look of Mansi's throttle body, and am happy with a set of his injectors that I have on my van - but that throttle body still must have a microswitch to install/adjust.

I've been pleased with every replacement part I've bought from GW that I can think of, after a time if not right away...
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1990 Westfalia, GW2.2, Peloquins TBD

[Altoona]

[MSGGrunt]

Reading these posts has me wondering if going with a GW throttle body was the best choice. Not installed yet, still waiting on a new rubber plenum seal.

[bettingonvans]

I recently installed a GW throttle body. Immediate improvement over my old one, mostly because my old throttle body's switch was inconsistent.

After two long trips, the GW throttle body switch does not return to idle (WOT still works). Anyone have a copy of the PDF dabaron linked describing how to adjust?

It sounds like you remove the plastic cover and it's pretty self explanatory? Going to attempt to sort this out tonight, otherwise reinstalling my spare/used OEM...
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1990 Westfalia, GW2.2, Peloquins TBD

[Igeo]

Sounds like you are on the right track!
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[Gauche1968]

[Igeo]

Yep- it has to work each and every time. The switch they use is open and easily observed (at least in your hand) is it not? You can verify the electrical make and break with a common Volt-Ohm meter. Are you checking the operation on or off the engine? Once you are satisfied that it's working on the kitchen table, you do need to verify its operation after the TB is tighened down to the intake manifold because just the pressure from the mounting screws can touque the TB enough to tickle the switch adjustment.

And another yep to the possibilty that a newly manufactured switch won't work due to inevitable manufacturing goofs.
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[Gauche1968]

I adjusted the plate at the bottom to get a more consistent click on and off the closed idle position, but I can't say the switch is clicking each and every time. Is there a chance that the switch itself is bad on a brand new Go Westy product?
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1984 Vanagon GL
1984 Vanagon Westy

[Igeo]

The throttle stop screw should be adjusted so the butterfly is just barely cracked open. I don't know how Go Westy adjusts them, but I'd say that they'd start with the valve fully closed then put about 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the screw to just crack it open to prevent binding.

Assuming that the throttle stop is set correctly by Go Westy (or after you do it), then you can move on to adjusting the switch so it's closed at idle and opens just as you crack the throttle, then closes again at WOT.
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[dabaron]

[Gauche1968]

[dabaron]

[plummerdesign]

The digital idle stabilizer is part of the 1.9 Digijet system. It is a green (or tan) box with two ports below, mounted on the wall next to the coil.
...
I have written a note to GoWesty for the record. These things are made by humans, no harm no foul : )
Cheers,
Jeffery
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It is old and green and it makes me grin.
1984 Westfalia 1.9

[Igeo]

Glad you found the issue. I considered the Go Westy TB, but decided to have my stock TB rebushed. The TPS can be adjusted with the TB mounted in the intake while the GW one cannot. Plus, in my opinion anyway, the GW unit has an inferior switch that is eposed to the elements.

However, I'm trying to decipher what you mean with the statement: "I then unplugged the Digital Idle Stabilizer and connected them to each other so the idle adjustment screw could be turned on the throttle body."

Can you clarify?
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1987 Westfalia 2.1 WBX Manual

[Gauche1968]

[plummerdesign]

Chris, your notes on the plastic fitting to the boot are well said. That there boot is new and that fitting is a BEAR to get into the hole. It be TIGHT!
Last month I did a smoke test to seek out any possible leaks and found bliss – no leaks. The first place to look when everything is new is for vacuum leaks.
You are also correct in regards to the cloth covered hose. Please forgive me for being the one guy who actually purchases OEM hose to keep the OEM look.
It is chronic. But only for the green camper that seldom goes anywhere unless it is adventure-based (we drive electric cars in the real world).

BTW- so glad to see you still active here on the Samba : )
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It is old and green and it makes me grin.
1984 Westfalia 1.9

[plummerdesign]

Follow up:
I found the GW throttle body problem! The throttle body switch was never actually returning to idle because it was out of adjustment. This meant the EFI was not getting a signal to idle. The throttle return spring should have been enough to work the switch, but the wee little adjustment screw prevented it from doing so. I backed off the nut (6mm I think) and turned the screw just enough to hear the switch ‘click’.
Now the EFI knew to idle.
Testing the disconnected connector FROM the GoWesty throttle body the reading was .4 OHMS. Testing the disconnected connector FROM the EFI wiring harness read ‘infinite’. These readings are proper. When the engine is running and the throttle body switch is initiated by the cam, the signal goes to ‘infinite’, as it should.
This was only part of the problem.

Just purchasing new parts is not a guarantee that they work right. The O2 sensor has been suspect for a couple months, but it was a brand-new Bosch with the factory connector. Yet when I would unplug it, nothing would happen. I had a new Walker brand O2 sensor so swapped them out. Bingo. A definite improvement. I then unplugged the Digital Idle Stabilizer and connected them to each other so the idle adjustment screw could be turned on the throttle body. A single turn counter-clockwise balanced the rumble. The Digital Idle Stabilizer was reconnected and the engine restarted. As Cat-woman (Julie Newmar) would say “Purrfect”.
Now to test it on the road…
A 60 mile drive with numerous sudden stops showed that the engine went from high revs to idle with no problem, and never hunted or died. Freeway exits too. I drove from 35 to 70 mph and found the previous lag in acceleration was gone. This is my old friend again, running without issues.
The solution steps:
(1) Testing the connectors was key to seeing that the readings were correct but that something was not allowing the switch to work as it should. Listen to the switch, is it clicking? If not, adjust until it does. I say this only because the installation manual from GW says to NOT adjust the factory settings.
(2) New parts are suspect. Always. If you have a spare, swap it out to compare. In this engine/transmission drive train project I have purchased new items like a thermostat that did not open, a coolant tank that leaked at the seam, a blue coolant tank pressure cap that did not allow fluid to pass, a Sachs clutch disc that was not assembled correctly, a leaky H-connector (seam leak), and NOS Bosch spark plug wires that came apart.

Money eating, knuckle busting, patience testing Darned old buses anyways : )
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It is old and green and it makes me grin.
1984 Westfalia 1.9

[tencentlife]

[Gauche1968]