Mystery Longblock inspection -

[Zundfolge1432]

Although it’s not right large oil pump with smaller galley case it can work. Yes it’s a backyard shade tree combination but if it fits tight I’ve see this work, also seen larger 8mm mounting holes used on 6mm studs. On those older cases people used a type 3 pump which is a tad bigger. Good decision to break it all down now you’ll know everything

[66brm]

Will not work with the in/out cover, see the extra port?
_________________
Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[jeromevw312]

This engine is just stranger and stranger. While researching if the maxi style oil filter on it would work and differences of this being a single relief H case, I realized that this block has the small oil galleys, yet the pump is for large galleys. Great, this is why I am taking it apart to find the mistakes like this.
As luck would have it, I randomly have a new oil pump from a pic, and it is a small galley pump. Cool, except the pump mounting holes are for different size studs, granted this block already has bolts in it anyways, so it does fit in the case.

Im so confused with the small inlet vs. large inlet, 8mm vs 6mm, flat cam vs dished. But I think this other pump I have will work, and if so the plan is to drill and tap it and the block for full flow.

[jeromevw312]

[Zundfolge1432]

Yep that’s the old school cam and they idled smooth with duals, if memory serves correct it pulled from 2500 to 4500. They called it a hot street cam around 431 lift 284 duration. Scat had the C-35, bugpack had 4063. All of them very similar spec. I also noticed that old H case doesn’t have inserts for cylinder studs. If the case passes muster I’d install them. About the scratch on bearings could be a dirty assembly area, you cannot be too clean when building.

[jeromevw312]

Had some time tonight to tear the engine apart some more. Started with removing the sump, it seams like a quality old school piece.

Then I removed the cylinders and pistons. The wristpin on number 4 was really tight, the piston really did not want to move on it, and it really took some effort to get it out. wristpin bushing might be a little off, forgot to take a pic of that. First reaction after getting pistons off is rods look like there was some material removed if an effort to balance them.

Then I removed all of the engine hardware and bolts, and gave a few taps on the end to loosen the oil pump. I do not want to completely split it yet since the flywheel is still attached. I need to either borrow a small compressor or preferably a torquemeister tool to remove it before completely splitting. I figure getting it off the crankshaft after it is removed could prove even more challenging.

A few taps and the oil pump loosened right up. Pulled it out, and found and Engle W110 cam. Not sure if this is good or not, I wanted something more than stock, but isn’t a w110 a little big for a 1641? I really know nothing about building engines and cams, other than a w110 is probably the most popular ever made and seems common in 1776 builds.

Last thing I removed the #1 connecting rod. There are some marks, but I cannot say they look worn. Not really sure what to make of the marks. Crankshaft journal looked clean with no ridges I guess.

Now to see if any local VW friends have the torquemeister tool or borrow a small compressor so I can try my luck with an impact gun. I do at least have a flywheel lock and a 36mm socket.

Any thoughts on the marks on the bearings?

How would the combination of the w110 work in a 1641 with an 019 , 36 dells and a tri-mill Thing exhaust?

[mark tucker]

if you dont know wht you are doing find somebody who does. and prefurably somebody who has a vw car that runs good all the time, and is driven a lot and dosent pour oil or smoke...or knock.. and that you know that they built it...not took to somebody else and says they built it... or do it your self and ask all the questions you can think of!!!! then...ask the questions you dont want to ask.then ask the questions you cant think of...just dont eff it up!!! but if you do....then ask the questions that you should of asked before effing it up. good luck!!!

[QRP]

[SBD]

_________________
"Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"

[Zundfolge1432]

[oprn]

Likely a stock crank then, not too many counter weighted ones out there that still have only 4 dowels.

[jeromevw312]

Thank you all for the tips, I am going to split the case and see what I have and report back with pics.

[jeromevw312]

[jeromevw312]

[jeromevw312]

[jeromevw312]

[jeromevw312]

[earthquake]

Does it have a 4 or 8 dowel crank?

eQ
_________________
74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
98 Ford E150
Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
https://time-zonelabs.blogspot.com/p/about-kelly.html
DEATH TO CHINGERS!
[From a military recruitment poster in the novel "The Stainless Steel Rat" By Harry Harrison]

[Ebel]

At least one of those used heads looked cracked between the plug and seat. I wouldn’t waste time on them without checking that first.

[Brian]