Cost of maintaining squareback

[Bobnotch]

If it's close by, take a look at it. Drive it and see how it feels, and make some notes. Like do the brakes feel tight? Is the steering tight or loose? How about the windows, do they close/open easily? When closing the doors, do they feel solid? Does the rear hatch close easily? Does it rattle with the engine running? Same with the doors? While this might seem like nit picking, on a restored car shouldn't be there. Everything should feel tight like it has quality built into it (like your Civic). These are just little tells of the condition of the car. Just asking, but what is that red thing in the right front corner of the front trunk? A jack cover? Or a car cover bag?
At this point it only costs time. Come back to us after you've taken it for a ride to check it out. Report your findings, and new questions.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Typ3nut]

[Mike Fisher]

I wouldn't be worried about a bad speedometer or that he hired a Pro to do his work.
Speedometer replacement etc are the things you can do yourself.
Drive as many as you can and buy the one you like best!
_________________
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

[gt1953]

HMM no odometer,,,, mine was not working but the speedo did. Had to send it out to the fellow in the Chicago area for rebuild.
Do go look at the car and drive it...drive several of them.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Spencer238]

[Qldelsie]

If it has been restored properly, why is the odometer broken ?
Not a big deal in itself, but it just makes me wonder what else wasn't fixed properly .................

[Clatter]

I'd offer that who you buy the car from might be the most important of all.

What kind of person are they?
Do they do their own work or pay someone else to do it?


That red Craigslist car doesn't look like one that the owner does his own work to me.
I could be wrong, but I'll bet you..
just a gut feeling, but that thing has 'lipstick pig' written all over it.

The thing that's different about a mechanic doing work on the clock to get paid and an owner doing work for the love of it is huge.
Any mechanic has to get the job "done" and out the door in order to earn a living.
Surprises, hang-ups and obstacles need to be bypassed.
The game for them is to get past these any way they can,
not necessarily to stop, ask for more money, try to explain, etc.
That ties up shop space and makes for unhappy customers..
Working as a mechanic, the theme is "Get this car out of here'!

50 years later, and several POs, there's going to be surprises.
You only ever know what you'll find until you tear in.

Owners rarely just say "fix everything you find";
They want X job done for y amount of dollars.
Mechanics will do a job, and get paid for that job.
There's way more to it than that;
A lot more parts and tasks and things to be done..

Hunting for the right parts is a game all unto itself these days.
Many things sold today are substandard.

So,
There's no getting around it,
you'll either do your own work or you'll get done.

It's just been way too long since these cars were new for a mechanic to be able to make a living working on them.
At least on a daily-maintenance driver scenario..
Not enough wealthy people driving these to pay for all the work that needs done now.
A few places make a living doing full restorations.

You have to be willing to do most all of it yourself.
not that hard,
but a lot of work,
Especially if you're new.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

I have excellent news for the world...
There is no such thing as patina.
It does not exist!

[KTPhil]

It looks better than most.

See it in person; never buy over the internet. Be ready to walk if it isn't 100% what you expected.

Check for rust (find threads on Type 3 rust hiding places), and examine engine receipts, maybe call the shop and see what they thought of the car. Does it have a recent compression test?

Not a fan of the carb conversion. Either they gave up or were ignorant usually, and this isn't a good sign. Those carbs suck hot air into the engine (the FI drew cool air from the rear bodywork plenum)

Was there an engine fire? Engine lid insulation and floor look oddly dark.

At that price it should not require anything to be a reliable daily driver. Should. Does it?

Check braking and freeway tracking. See if it feels or smells hot after 15 minutes in the freeway.

Shake the front wheels to check for bearing or torsion arm looseness.

[Spencer238]

If anyone is still looking at this thread, I have a quick question on a listing I found:
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/hayward-vintage-1973-vw-volkswagen/7274666813.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISTPdIqBXHY&feature=youtu.be

What kind of stuff should I be looking for in particular when I see appealing listings like this one? If I got the seller down to around $9000, would that be a good deal? Any and all advice is appreciated!

[Bobnotch]

[gt1953]

My Squareback 1972 came fuel injected then the previous owner (PO) converted it to a weber progressive center mount carb cutting a whole in the engine cover yuk. A mess.

So thanks to the Samba was able to source the needed carbs intake linkage air cleaner needed to make it stock again. Yes the engine was gone through. Volkzbiz Tim rebuilt the carbs and he is top shelf guy.

Agreed with the fuel injection would have been my choice however the PO ended that.
Minimal rust and you are out west so one will show up for you.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Spencer238]

[Qldelsie]

As Bob suggests, I reckon your first step should be to find and join your nearest air cooled VW club. They will probably be able to help with suggested mechanics, might help you with an inspection, will have knowledge and advice to share, and may even know of cars for sale. Might just give you a good start ?

[Bobnotch]

Expanding on what KTPhil said, maybe talk with different repair shops in your area, and see if any will help you do a pre-purchase inspection. If not, contact some of the nearest clubs in your area, as someone might have a good shop that they like or prefer.

Keep in mind that your first year of ownership will be your most expensive, and troubling. BTDT. I only say that, as you'll be learning so much about the car, and what's required to keep it going.
For a first time owner, I'd recommend looking for a carbed car, as they seem to be the easiest to keep running. Yes, there are plenty of FI cars out there that are running great, but a lot of them have also been converted to carbs too.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[KTPhil]

[Spencer238]

[vwfye]

Tools, tools, tools! While many will help you in a pinch, most don't like to lend out tools. You will need multiple 10mm sockets (because they sprout legs and walk off), but as was stated for the casual mechanic, Harbor Freight can get you going.

I used to daily drive (60 miles per day) my type 3 for work and the only big issues on a stockish car were making sure the heater system was correctly sealed to defrost windows and tune up stuffs. They can be greatly reliable cars!

Finally,
Welcome to the addiction!
_________________
64 No'back Speedster "Pearl"
LME "Little Giant Killer 3"
1974 Ghia "PUK"

[knewknew]

I'll echo what the others have said...

Finding a car without rust issues is key. Also, I have noticed that everyone's definition of 'rust' is subjective. I have seen some rotted out cars that were advertised as 'the rust isn't so bad' or even 'rust free', and these were from experienced VW guys. Do yourself the favor and speak with people who restore old cars on the regular. It doesn't have to be VWs. Get a feel for what level of rust is acceptable. Also, learn how to inspect a car that has been previously restored. There are ways you can use a fridge magnet (ie not too strong) that you can place on the body to see if there is a heavy amount of bondo being used. If the magnet sticks on the upper portion of the doors and fenders but not the lowest parts (where rust like to live), you are likely looking at a patch job.

Also remember that they are plenty out there. Yes, they aren't common, and people will say 'hey kid these are really rare', but you need to remember that another one WILL eventually come up for sale. Don't convince yourself that 'this is my car!' by just photos alone. Inspect a few of them before taking the plunge! Be patient.
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1970 Squareback

[gt1953]

The squarebacks are out there in great drivable condition for dollars. I happened to find one parked for ten years, a complete car. A year later driving fine and dandy. Yes it needed a lot the wiring was not all hacked up, did have to replace the right battery tray pan but the sale price was only 850 bucks.
When looking at them look them over top and bottom and drive them, do yourself a huge favor and check many as you can. Ok one my be sold but keep looking for what will fit your needs.
How I found this one

and now after complete engine work, interior work etc.

Would sell if for your budget too.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[Tvättbjörn]

It is a basic car compared to any newer car. No computer / control units (Older models) , no power windows , no ................. What the car does not have - does not go bad.

Find the best possible car you can buy and do some research about the prices. Every car has wear and tear items like brakes , plugs , oil changes , ball joints , steering components , clutch ... but once replaced it is usually good to go for a long time.

Just like KTPhil said. $1000 for the first month should take care of a lot of things on a car.

Maybe you can have a pre-buying inspection done at a VW specialized repair place. Let them show you the bad / worn out parts while the car is on the lift. Look at it with YOUR own eyes and take notes.

Get a bentley manual and start reading. Maybe you are even able to go a local high school and take some automobil classes.

Where part of CA do you live?