Rusty 65 SC restoration

[Kb65single]

After getting the bumper fit I wanted to find a solution for preventing the crushing of the rear bumper towel bar ends. It was easy enough to pound the crushing back out but repeating the same thing over and over again is insane. Road trip to the Ace Hardware to find something that would slide inside the pipe and prevent that from happening. Ace Hardware had a small selection of non-plated metal cylinders. They were a little long, but that was good. Slowly rounded the metal to match the inside towel bar. Sandblasted the inside to guarantee a good weld. Cut a slot across the bar and welded the two pieces. Added another weld on the inside. You could probably glue them in if you were preserving the paint. I have the same problem on the front bumper towel bar.

[70bus]

There's an image in the 63 shop manual section on splash pans that MIGHT show shadowy circles in 2 places under the quarter panel. Or it might be an artifact of printing process. I'm just amused there's no documentation anywhere. Maybe it was a verbal thing on the production line - "If you zee ein hole you fill it!"
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Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Kb65single]

[70bus]

Who has a body work manual? I just have the 'estimated time' book. Maybe I'll see how much time they estimate to find these plugs and stick them in!

I guess we can let kb65single get back to his work. Or maybe he wants to say to hell with it and weld all these pesky holes up.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Eric&Barb]

[70bus]

Well, that's what I'm saying - they were specifically called out in the T1 parts manual, and I saw some on a diagram for a pancake motor. It makes sense that's what those holes would be used for (tho a drain also makes sense); I just find it odd they left it out in this one example.

If my tin was close enough to rattle I'd try em out. :0
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Eric&Barb]

[70bus]

Never apologize for too many pictures, especially when they convey so much detail. For instanc, I did not know of these

and doubt they are on my truck. Gotta look now.


No disrespect to E&B, but I think these

didn't fit because they don't go there. There is nothing in my OG VW parts manuals showing them. They are shown in Beetle manual. Doesn't mean VW didn't adapt them from somewhere later. Or my parts manuals being a year they left them out. Or the OG part is no longer made and everyone just uses the Bug one?


It's also fantastic to follow along on the journey of making old fit new and vice versa. Even if I had the skills, I wouldn't have your patience. This thing should goto the VW museum when you are done having fun!

In any event, hurry up and get them wheels on!
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Kb65single]

Back to the rear bumper.

Started adjusting the AB, BC and CD angles by sectioning (partial) and tack welding where needed. Ended up cutting 3 of the 4 BC, CD angles.

You can see by the hammer marks that the PO did a reasonable job of straightening the bracket. The metal is pretty thick so changing the shape was best done by cutting and rewelding.

Cutting the plate end of the rear bumper bracket off and adjusting the BC and CD angles let me get things aligned properly. There were multiple try ins, but the final product was repeatable, and nothing was torqued out of shape. The blade and slash ends were parallel to the load bed, and it was centered in the bus. After the cuts and tack welds the brackets ended up looking the same but they were not interchangeable. Definitely a driver's side and a passenger's side. I closed the 3/4-inch gap between the splash pan and the bus corner sheet metal to 1/8-inch.

There were other adjustments needed at the same time as the brackets especially to the splash pans. Had to cut off the tabs that screw to the slash end of the bumper blade and align them properly. Left a gap for rubber washers to eventually protect the final paint.

There are these strangely shaped pieces of thick metal that go behind the bus sheet metal corners. They help support the slash end of the rear bus bumper. One end uses a small 5mm nut and bolt. The other end is an 8mm bolt. There is a left and right to them. Had to change the hole location of the bus corner sheet metal on one side of the bus. Had to change the hole location on one of the strange, shaped pieces on the other side.

The WW kit has a little rubber pad that attaches to the bus corner sheet metal on the bottom ledge. I enlarged the hole in the metal because it was too difficult to install the way it was.

So, after all the adjusting I wanted to see if the splash pans ended up mostly level and parallel to the load bed.

Kept the pass and driver's side bumper bracket tight to the frame on the inside while fitting things so I would have a repeatable location. Also started with the brackets in the most rear position. I did end up moving them just a nudge forward.

Added round rubber washers to pad the corner sheet metal on the side and bottom near the slash ends. Might have to blow up the image to find them.

That rubber pad does keep the painted metal parts separated.

Splash pan at the d-pillar has a small gap.

Unfortunately, you can't bolt the splash pans to the bus and rear bracket and slide the bumper under. It just won't work. Loosely assemble is the best approach.

Had to change the location of the 5mm bolt holes connecting the splash pan to the bracket on top. The rubber gasket that fits on the curved outside of the splash pan made that change necessary.

Final pictures. Sorry for all of the pictures, that is the most complicated and frustrating part fit that I had on this bus. Glad it's done. Moving slowly forward. I love a good fit on any front and rear bumper.

Oilspot and Buckly were right; your fingers might get pinched.

[70bus]

[BarryL]

I put mine ribbed side down so water gets out where it's against the bumper bracket top.

[70bus]

The rectangular one I've usually found ribbed side up. However, that may just be because ribbed side down ones fell off due to less surface area to adhere. I'd guess the ribs are for drainage - but then why make them on just one side? The mysterious minds of VW engineers...
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Eric&Barb]

[Kb65single]

BarryL, 70bus, Barb&Eric

Here is a real picture of a bumper bracket and not a stick figure. These are the angles (AB, BC,and CD) that need to be correct for the bumper to sit right.

There is a rubber pad inserted in the bus corner sheet metal about 6 inches from the bumper bracket. Not sure why it's there it just is.

Picture of the rectangular rubber pad that is sandwiched between the bumper bracket and the splash pan. The rubber pad is smooth on one side and has ribs on the other side, not sure which side is up or down.

[70bus]

As I've said, I'm no expert - but is that plug stuck in the hole meant to drain the battery tray area and body lip (and other side drain as well)? There is no rubber plug like that in any 63-67 VW parts manual I've looked at. Doesn't mean there isn't one in one I HAVEN'T looked at, but I do not think it goes there.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[Eric&Barb]

[70bus]

Do you mean the ribbed rectangle 231707666
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=213707666

or the edge rubber, 211707397B
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211707397B

I don't think there are any models that have more than those but always good at eating crow. If you mean something else, perhaps someone stuck something there to prevent rattles?

FWIW I can try and get pics of my splash pans ths evening.
_________________
Craig K
70 Neunsitzer
65 Pritschenwagen
"If Von Dutch was alive, he'd walk in there with a pistol and shoot these people." - Robert Williams

Raul the 65 singlecab

Karl the 70 nine-seater

[BarryL]

Right where B goes under there is supposed to be a rubber bumper. You can kinda see it here on the bottom off the body corner.

[Kb65single]

It has been a while (6/14/25). Started on fitting the rear bumper posting date 4/20/25. Wanted to finish posting on that subject." Things" got in the way and then it got to hot and humid to get out there.

At this stage I am just introducing the rear bumper splash guards. All the work that I have done to this point was getting the bumper centered in the bus, only one plane of the xyz 3D location. I really didn't even fool with the guards until now. I bought a NOS set with part # labels on them a long time ago. When I attempted to put them on, I found out that they weren't as advertised. Turned out they were for a baywindow bus not a split. Found that out quickly because of the 13 pages of bumper info that I consumed in the forums. My bad on not checking the #'s but I assumed the seller knew her stuff. It was advertised in the split bus section.

None of the used classified offerings looked inviting, so I entered back into the aftermarket world. It included all of the hardware; bolts, brackets, rubber goods that I didn't have or wouldn't get with the used old stuff. WW supplied the splash guards.

Had the bumper supported by wood blocks and the upright guards and towel bars bolted to the bumper blade. Trying to get the splash pans squeezed past all that stuff was impossible. I quickly gained an appreciation of loosely assembling all the bumper parts, then loosely sliding it under the bus and loosely bolting that to the frame and then gradually tightening them up. Unfortunately, they all have to fit. The splash pans threw a curve into that process. Every part of the mounting points, splash pan to frame bracket, splash pan to bus corner sheet metal and splash pan to bumper bracket near the slash tip was off. I understand now why I see so many pictures of buses without rear bumpers.


Some pictures of the issues.

Side bumper bracket at the slash tip was adjusted all the way up and the slash pan 3/4" away from the bus corner sheet metal.

Couldn't move the blade up because the splash panel bracket that should bolt to the bus corner sheet metal was in the way.

Got frustrated with that so I decided to eliminate some of the variables like the bumper blade. How does the splash pan relate to my distorted bumper brackets. The splash pans bolt to the frame bracket with a small 5mm nut and bolt. They also bolt to the bottom corner sheet metal with the same 5mm nut and bolt so my 3/4" gap wasn't correct.

5mm bolt with nut and washer underneath.

At that point I knew that my frame bumper brackets needed some adjustments. Tried the black set of brackets to see what they would do. Definitely not right.

The white set pointed me in the opposite direction. The splash pan was pointed down at the D-pillar. Needed to find a happy medium because my thinking was that the splash pan should be parallel with the load bed/ engine lid hinge carrier.

So, what are the correct angles to bend the bumper brackets. I think that there are too many variables to have a set number for a 60+ year old vehicle that has been restored. The unknown damage done to the brackets and bumper blade make it a crap shoot. My stick figure drawing of a rear bumper bracket.

B bolts to the splash pan
D bolts to the frame
A bolts to the bumper blade
AB, BC, and CD angles can be changed by cutting and welding if needed.

Cutting the brackets far enough, but not all the way is what I did to make the changes I needed. A lot of trial and error and frustration but it finally came together. Tack welding the changes and trying them in comes highly recommended. If you change one angle the other two will need adjustment. Next post will show some of the changes.

[Kb65single]

[quote="70bus"]Understood. VW was not worried about water as much as saving $5 on that bit.

70bus
Yes, Hans und Franz did a real bad job of designing that part. The original floor in that section had multiple holes drilled in it to drain the water out on both sides. I am assuming that the treasure chest doors don't seal that well and the gas tank door and its surrounding metal is what it is.
I'm leaning toward drilling holes to let the water out and making a foam seal on the gas door to hopefully slow water from entering. Probably a metal pipe like you did. The VW gods will hopefully look kindly down at me for making a decent effort. The bus might get wet, but it won't be a daily driver.

Yes, getting ready to paint underneath and treasure chest area. Then load bed and bulkhead metal is all that's left. Forgot the gates damn! Those will keep me busy for a while.