Heads

[Brian_e]

Another thing to add is the last few castings usually go the small chamber, and the .055" step. This really causes all kinds of problems when trying to re-use old heads on larger engines. Once you get rid of the step, you end up with a 48cc chamber. This really sucks when you are trying to use the heads on a 1904cc bus engine.

You can hog the chambers to add volume till you are blue in the face, and all you will end up with is sore hands and a really crappy semi-hemi chamber.

This is why the newer casting heads like aa500 are great. They used to come with a 61cc, no-step chamber so you had all kinds of options. They recently switched to the stock valve aa500 only come with a 54cc chamber, which is still lots of room to work on bigger engines, while still keeping a nice tight deck height.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[modok]

NICE result!

DUSTY....
The mexican 043H heads had smaller ports which almost look like somebody used a flow bench finally, (no spring bump in intake port)
They were......I assume replacement heads for mexican taxis
Some had 3/4 reach plugs, others had 1/2 reach, some had small valves some had regular valves, some had big valves.
The spark plugs and valve sizes were whatever they put in the raw casting when ordered for sale to OUR market.
popular 10-20 years ago, when people speak of 043 heads they mean the mexican 043H

but not all heads with 043 casting number are the same, there are many, probably 10 different kinds. Different plants in different countries. There are even things like mexican 311 heads, i have a pair now.

Autolinea is in brazil, vw of mexico was in mexico, I doubt they are the same molds shared between countries, the molds are probably all worn out anyway, but these days it's not hard to copy things. I could be wrong. who knows what happens down there.

[Teeroy]

For a smaller engine you will make more torque with small valve heads over big valve heads. I just proved this on my 1776 Friday. Same engine, same car, same dyno different heads. Went from Berg P&P big valve heads 81whp 93 ft lbs torque, to Tims Super Stock P&P small valve heads 89 whp (did not expect this increase) and 100 ft lbs torque (expected this increase).
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[KitS]

Thanks for that Smurfy, I've been leaning that way. I guess it's always easy to pull the motor and swap the heads later. You were quite close in your estimate: it's a 76 X 92 engine with a W110 cam. The car is a tubular framed sand rail, never weighed it, but I'd guess less than 1200 pounds.

The engine in it now is a 1600 (or so I was told when I bought it) that is getting tired, oil pressure light comes on at idle when warm and pressure drops to under 10psi. It has a lot of leaks. But it still runs and pushes the car quite well.

This 2 litre build I am doing is a ground up. All new parts except the case, head castings, rockers and some of the valves. It's at short block stage now. I'll probably take it to long block today.

The case came to me thru Brothers, I had taken a case to them to work and it turned out to have cracks. So they sourced another for me and worked it to my specs. I can't say enough good about them, they do superior work and go the distance to help their customers.

KitS

[Dusty1]

[KitS]

Off road, sand rail. Stock sedan swing axle. 29" X 10" rears or 30 X 15 paddles. Rarely hitting 4K RPM.

I have a set of heads that Brothers did for me. They are standard German 35.5 X 32, have had their combustion cambers blended and opened up to 58CC. The ports and passages were cleaned of all casting artifacts and smoothed out. The guides, springs, keepers and locks have all been replaced. A three angle valve job was done. They have the stock rockers but have had a solid rocker shaft kit from Empi installed. They were bored for 92mm thick wall cylinders.

All in all, a good chunk of change. I will buy another set of heads if needed but really want to get it right the second time if I do.

Help!

KitS

[Brian_e]

[Dusty1]

[KitS]

OK, how about the "Mini D" head from Brothers? Remember ing here that I am not looking for high RPM, low end torque is more important to me.

[Brian_e]

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

Car craft heads are the same as larrys offroad they are a super budget line AA brand. Sold as IAP or kuhltek car craft just raised the price last month they were under 200 for new stock heads 100% china everything springs valves retainers keepers seats.

Car craft was selling those Big valve heads for 219 making them the cheapest new big valve head available. I looked at them the engine builder suggested them for my little 1776 they are stock ports with big valves installed. no bowl work they are ugly.

But if you need new stock heads cheap on a stock engine Car Craft heads will work he has great prices but good quality heads they are not.

[Brian_e]

[sled]

you get what you pay for, ESPECIALLY with heads. There's a reason those heads are so cheap.
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drive your split.

[Brian_e]

[KitS]

Are the Car Craft heads any good?

https://carcraftstore.com/cylinderheads-stocktowild.aspx?variation=4029

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

I want to see a side by side with good stock 35.5x32 heads compared to these make the CR the same change nothing but a correct tune.

https://www.larrysoffroad.com/product-page/044-big-bore-cylinder-heads-cut-for-85-5-87mm

[Dusty1]

[Brian_e]

jpaul is correct. The upper RPM limit is set by the smallest Cross Sectional Area in the whole port. This can be figured out using math.

Big engines with a small CSA will pull hard, but then fall on their face quick and early. You can keep adding throttle, and it just won't pull anymore. That is because the cylinders can't be filled due to the small CSA.

This is why it is most important to design the whole engine as a package. You can figure out the MCSA needed depending on your displacement and upper RPM limit you plan to rev. Then use that number to calculate the correct valve size that will get the engine to its RPM. The rest of the port MUST also be made to work with the CSA. This is where most heads are screwed up. Like the typical "Big Valve" head which is nothing more than a 40mm valve stuffed into a stock diameter port. They flow just like a stock valve head, and often worse.

Once you know the valve size, you can then pick a cam with the duration that will suite your RPM range, and the lift that suits your heads flow potential.

A well thought out engine, with all components carefully matched to a specific RPM range is awesome to drive. Lots of usable power, with a wide powerband. A poorly matched combo will be soft down low, and then cut off early.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[jpaull]

[Brian_e]

Panchito's with the bowls blended will be about the perfect heads for what you are doing.

Anything much bigger will loose torque down low.

If its low end torque you are after, I would run a web 218 instead of the boring w110. 9.0:1 will also work great, and make the power down low better.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok

Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts