Heat coming out of vents when it shouldn't be in 86 westy

[jerryil]

I just got an 86 westy. When I'm driving, there is fairly hot air coming from the floor and dash vents even though I have the slider all the way to the cool side. I can close them off so the air doesn't come in, but is this right? Thank you!

[Terry Kay]

Couple of things going on here.

Your heater vent door seals are gone, and the air is passing past the seal's--even though the doors are closed.

And more than likely the heater coolant control valve isn't closing all the way, and the air that's getting past the closed door's is bringing the heated air
directly through the vents to the cabin of the van.

Remove the dash & rebuild the door seals, and either adjust or replace the stock water valve, or install a accessory heater valve which will absolutely shut down the heat.
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T.K.

[MattVW]

here's some stuff to also do while the dash is off...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=295801

-matt
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-Matt

[bucko]

Replace the stock water shutoff valve as Terry points out; it will save you having to remove the dash to replace the foam seals on the vents.

Terry K sells them on his site. I bought one, installed it behind the center heater cover (lower center dash), and I turn it to the "off" position (no hot water passes into the front heater core). In the winter, remove the center cover, turn the valve to "open"; this allows hot water to pass through the front heater core.

Since Terry did not mention this, I'll give him a good word!
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Current VW drives: 1984 Westfalia

Past VW drives: 1967 Beetle, 1973 Beetle, 1977 Bus, 1971 Military Type 181

[Terry Kay]

So the subject didn't get shut off on the original poster , I didn't mention I had the valve to end his immediate problem Buck.

It is the fastest way to end the heat coming out of the vents when it's warm out and frying your tootsie's--no doubt.

It's a bunch easier job than yanking the dash to re-seal the door's, or groaping under the nose of the Van and chopping your hands up on the spring clamps to get to that stupidly placed stock valve,to adjust the slipped cable on the valve or replace it that's for sure.

I realize it's a pain & inconveniant to pull that plastic cover off right in front of the shift lever once in the spring, once in the fall.
I'd have to say that I'd much rather deal with the accessory valve placement than the stock, poorly situated, over engineered heater control valve & box component's.
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T.K.

[rockfish]

Terry -

Have you given any thought on how to possibly mount a shut-off valve on the outside of the cover? Perhaps a cut-out or replaceable opening?
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89 Westy
GW 2.5 5-speed trans

"It's what you learn after you know it all that counts."
- John Wooden

[hiram6]

To the original poster:

On my 85, the only issue was the slipped cable that Terry refers to. I was able to adjust the cable where it attached to the dash control slider mechanism without having to go under the van. After some tedious fiddling around, I found the magic spot, tightened the cable clamp back down, and have been trouble-free ever since. Lot's of folks have had luck with the valve that TK sells, and I would have gone that route, but I liked being able to go on/off with the heat without having to go under the van, or removing the plastic cover to get to a secondary valve.

Part of that reservation with a secondary on/off valve is the reality that, to me, it's not a change of setting that I'm only going to do twice a year. In the early Spring, or late Fall, there will be days where you want heat in the morning, and cool air in the afternoon. Having the slider control properly adjusted and working correctly is the way to go, if you cn be patient and find the sweet spot.
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1985 Westy, 1.9L automatic (Daisy)
1996 Mazda Miata
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited

You can't lie around on the beach and drink rum all day.................unless you start first thing in the morning.

[Terry Kay]

<<Terry -
Have you given any thought on how to possibly mount a shut-off valve on the outside of the cover? Perhaps a cut-out or replaceable opening?>>

Sure I have, and I thoghtat cutting any kinda hole in the front cover was kinda wacky---

So--what I did was mount the accessory valve in the angle running hose to the core in behind the glove box.

It's still not an on the roll kinda place to flip it on and off--just my selection of places to fit it.

I know guys that have mounted it back before the T fitting back by the engine to shut down the entire system--fron and rear.
Which makes good sence too---

I suppose I could figure out a way to make an extension out through the front cover, and have the knob for the valve fit on the outside of the front cover.

I'll work on that--good idea.
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T.K.

[Vanagator]

I think I read somewhere that you can install the shut off valve to both heaters (under bench and up front) by installing the valve somewhere back in the engine compartment. Any thoughts on where exactly where you can put it?

[Terry Kay]

Yes---

Right behind or before the rear heater hose T-fittings.
This will shut down the heat on both front & rear heater cores with a flp of your finger's.

It's a good idea, but some folks don't care for it , cause you gotta climb under the Van to do the valve switching.
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T.K.

[iiigoiii]

for me, the tradeoff is obvious - i'd rather be able to use the heater controls as they were designed from the dash, be able to vary the temperature, and be able to turn the heat on or off easily on transitional days.

it was worth the half hour of cursing to switch out the original valve in the tunnel under the spare tire - frustrating but definitely doable.

it's come out recently that the little spring which is the source of most of the frustration in this job is replaceable by a ziptie - use the search to find out how (i think ben from bensplace wrote about it).
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1984 Westfalia Wolfsburg Ed. w/ Subaru EJ22 power

[Vanagator]

Thanks T.K. - I understand you have a site that sells the valves. I'll check it out.

iiigoiii - I understand where your coming from, but in my case i live in Florida and plan on going south to panama. no need for any heat at all.

I do think it will be necessary to open the valve at times for circulation in the pipes.
Regards, Kevin

[Wildthings]

Make sure your heater control cable is working.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=277861

[markz2004]

There is a good pitcure of an aftermarket valve in this thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237271&highlight=hot+foot
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87 Westy, 250k GW 2.4 - 2.0 , 16" wheels

[ak_runner]

There was one year of water cooled Vanagon that had the valve placed about the same spot the Terrys valve goes and being a factory part used the same cable that later vans use to control it. I think is was the first year for the water cooled vans. VW then moved the valve underneath the van and changed to the present style valve that we all like so much.:<)

I was in a hurry when I replaced the heater core in our Westy a few years ago and did not have time to round up foam to reseal the flap doors. Because of this I will have to pull the box again and replace the foam as while I can control the air temperature, our valve works well, I can not stop the air flow. We have a choice cold air, hot air, or something in the middle but never no air.

Going back to the original post your problem is either the control cable or valve underneath the van. You can see the upper end of the cable without too much trouble and the lower by dropping the spare tire and looking for the valve above it.
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AK_Runner
`87 Westy Syncro

[markz2004]

I thought another "fix" was to create a little bra like cover for the top part of the grill where the intake to the heater core is. This would block the air to some degree.

Also Neil AKA "VanagonNut" has put together a trap door of sorts for this same intake area.
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87 Westy, 250k GW 2.4 - 2.0 , 16" wheels

[crazyvwvanman]

Yes, the 82 watercooled came with the valve inside the passenger compartment but it was the same valve. Easier to change but with exposed hoses coming up through the floor at the passenger's feet.

Some people find the 83+ valve position makes it tricky to change and I have struggled a couple times with the clip myself. Still I would never resort to the lame second valve but I drive where I can need A/C in the afternoon and heat a few hours later.

The valves can go bad and stop shutting off all the way. If you buy a new one make sure you can't blow through it AT ALL when it is closed or don't bother putting it in.

Mark