Seal oil seep from crankcase seam

RBEmerson · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 8:40 am Post subject: Seal oil seep from crankcase seam

OK, I'm going to ask this question a little differently (see this link) :
There's a slow seep along part of the crankcase seam - where the halves go together. Needless to say, I have zero desire or intention to do a full engine tear-down just to seal this leak. Short of slathering JB Weld along part of seam, where the oil oozes out, what are some other options? I considered putting some of my fave boat caulk on the joint, but I don't think it's all that good with oil or high heat.

We're about to hit the road for a loop around the SE US, so I'd really like to stop this leak before we leave. It's not dropping the oil level appreciably, but we do get an oil film on the back of the Westy. Not Good.
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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

MarkWard · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:44 am Post subject:

You know what should be done, but I would not let oil spots collecting on the rear keep me from my trip. Everything collects there anyhow. For your patch to work, you need to really get it clean and dry. I think you'd have better luck with something like Honda Bond or Toyota Bond. It will remain flexible which you need since there is some expansion going on and would be removable when the time comes. These are the sealers manufacturers use for oil pans timing covers etc. I think even VW has one now. Bummer, but bring some extra qts of oil, and a bucket with some soap. You should be fine.

RBEmerson · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:54 am Post subject:

Honda (or Toyota or VW) Bond? I've never heard of it (them). I assume I need to head to the appropriate parts counter to get some. There's nothing equivalent at the FLAPS?

BTW, we'll be stopping in Wellington, FL. Maybe we should stop by and let you apply the needed glop. Wink

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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

MarkWard · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:42 am Post subject:

That is sort of a trade nickname. Here is a picture of the Toyota stuff.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Most of the OE manufacturers use something similar to the above. This stuff sticks. You could try some of the silicone sealers in the aftermarket, but when we want something to stick, adhere, seal, we use this Toyota stuff. I would not use it on a part that needed to be removed as part of a regular service like a valve cover.
You will probably just get frustrated, waste time and still have a drip. My custom oil pan has a weap. I need to remove it and weld that section again. Just have not got around to it. Between that and the breather exiting to atmosphere, I get a drops accumulating on the rear. Gives it character. Weather is getting nice now.

The image is not posting right.

Ahwahnee · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:49 am Post subject:

It is tough to seal a leak working from the outside.

An alternative I have seen used is to fashion a simple bracket that holds some absorbent material against the source of the leak -- the material is changed from time to time.

One set-up I saw used a well-known feminine hygiene product in a suitably shaped bracket.

You'll still have the leak but should eliminate the oil film on the hatch and rear window.

RBEmerson · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:31 pm Post subject:

This is a GoWesty 2.2L engine. It'd be nice to think we could just motor over to the "left coast" and say "your engine leaks, fixit." Unfortunately the warranty has expired.

The idea of clamping a pad in place has a certain amount of appeal. As it is now, we put a so-called "diaper" (AKA "pig pad") or oil absorbent sheet under the engine when we park in our garage. But toting them under way, and keeping them in place when the wind comes up? Not so good. And there's still that darn oil film in back. Hmmm... back to that pad???

I'll give the Toyota bond a try in hopes it works - even a blind squirrel finds an acorn now and then.
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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

dhaavers · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:35 pm Post subject:

Hit that area with some carb or brake cleaner, then rough it up with
sandpaper...give your glue something to grip on to. Good luck...
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RBEmerson · Posted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 7:06 pm Post subject:

Thanks - I'm gonna need it. [/LOL]
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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

a2d2 · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 1:33 am Post subject:

Are you using synthetic oil?

Just an idea but you might find that switching to Dino oil could stop the leaking. Something about the size of the "molecules" or something, apparently synthetics are smaller and more likely to find their way out.
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1981 Vanagon, Aircooled 2.0 AFC
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xoo00oox · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:55 am Post subject:

Clean it, degrease it, and dry it the best you can, put a bead of "right stuff" on you finger and push it into the seam leaving a layer on top of the seam, let it set up and see what that does.

Andrew-

RBEmerson · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:06 am Post subject:

Hmmm... In fact, there is Mobil 1 in the engine. The leak, however, goes back to having "dino" oil in it.

Dry, degrease, push sounds like 3/4 of a plan. The remaining 1/4? Wish real hard that it works. Wink

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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

MarkWard · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:31 am Post subject:

Randy in Maine · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:57 am Post subject:

I would jsut clean it and carry around some oil sorbent pads in a cat litter bucket.

When the engine comes apart, that is the time to use a better sealant on the case halves.

More common for them to leak from the pushrod tube seals or the valve covers though. Make sure that is OK.

insyncro · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:26 am Post subject:

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52469

RBEmerson · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 12:49 pm Post subject:

jberger · Samba Member Joined: November 17, 2003 Posts: 2476

How are you sure the leak is coming from the case seam? That is very uncommon. Usually it is from elsewhere and follows the contour of the alum to collect right at the bottom. If at the front of the engine I would suspect oil galley plug or flywheel seal. Do you have pictures? I would not leave on a trip with an unexplained leak

bluebus86 · Banned Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075

RBEmerson · Posted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:39 pm Post subject:

At this point, after giving the crankcase a good scrubbing and watching things happen, the seam appears to be the prime culprit. That said, I have wondered about seals, etc., too.

Oil loss was immeasurable after an oil change followed by a recent 1400 mile trip over everything from the interstates to windy back roads and dead level to pulling 10% grades. In general, this is more of an annoyance than an outright "something's broke".

I put Mobil 1 15W-50 in when I changed the oil. I don't think I'd go to 5W-anything unless it was darn cold out. Like cold enough to need a block heater when parked overnight.
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Lord, give me coffee to change the things I can change, and wine to accept the things I can't change.

bluebus86 · Banned Joined: September 02, 2010 Posts: 11075


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