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Water faucet pump problems
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billclimbs
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:10 pm    Post subject: Water faucet pump problems Reply with quote

happy 4th of July... Can someone help me out with the water pump power. I am assuming the fuse that powers the pump is the forward of the two. I have power before and after that fuse. but still the pump doesn't work. this is all new pump and faucet. not sure what to check for next... looked at the bently but that doesnt help me...Thanks
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noganav
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is a safety switch that prevents the pump from running when the water tank is empty. You'll have to make sure your water level indicator is working.

Would be helpful to know what year your westy is. Does it have the internal pump and water level indicator or the pump under the sink/level indicators bolted to the side of the tank?
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tlbranth
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine's a '91 and the pump will run empty or not. I just went through this whole problem myself. Pull the pump, hook it to a battery & see if it pumps. If it does, check the faucet switch. You can do that with an ohmmeter. I had the pump and the switch go bad. Rather than buying a whole new faucet, I put a toggle switch to the side of the sink in front. Get a cheap multimeter (often free at HF) and this problem will be easy to trace.
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billclimbs
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an 85...this is a new set up from van cafe..gowesty is the same...mine had electric but had been switched over to a hand pump before I got it. The tank is empty..maybe thats it. Is it the forward fuse..the other does not seem to have power ...unless maybe when its running..I figured that was for the fridge?
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

billclimbs wrote:
I have an 85...this is a new set up from van cafe..gowesty is the same...mine had electric but had been switched over to a hand pump before I got it. The tank is empty..maybe thats it. Is it the forward fuse..the other does not seem to have power ...unless maybe when its running..I figured that was for the fridge?


What are you using to determine if a fuse has power? Voltmeter? Test light?
What is "new set up...." ? New type of faucet?

One of the fuses by driver seat is for fridge.
Yes. It should not show power unless engine is running.

Neil.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tlbranth wrote:
Pull the pump, hook it to a battery & see if it pumps. If it does, check the faucet switch.


This.
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billclimbs
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

used a volt meter to test. Mine has the sensor leads into the tank. Here is the setup I bought



http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1358_1272/sink-faucet-shurflo.html

http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_90_1272/westfalia-sink-pump-in-h20-tank.html
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billclimbs
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok... Filledl the water tank and the pump still didn't work... Connected it directly to the battery pump works fine...next went to check the sensor connectors and they are not connected... Worse yet... I don't see where they would connect... Hope I didn't bury it behind the panel... Help!!! Thanks 1st pic is looking at tank..2nd connection under sink..3rd the sensor lights from front of stove
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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tlbranth
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check for good ground at pump. Check for 12v at both fuses by driver's seat. Check for 12v on each side of faucet switch. The water level gauge isn't involved. 12v goes to fuse by driver's seat then to faucet switch then to pump. Reeeeeeeeeal easy.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only very early vans disabled the pump when the tank was empty. The photos show an led board without that feature so your pump should run even without the seniors wired up.

Mark
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

First, this should be a ground:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The pump's brown wire (ground) is connected to the black wire, which is connected into the level sensor black wire, which is connected to a ground point on the body/chassis (near the fridge).

billclimbs wrote:
next went to check the sensor connectors and they are not connected... Worse yet... I don't see where they would connect...


The panel connects to another white multi-pin connector, like this one:

jmranger wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Satch
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey All,
Major Newbie over here having a similar problem. I am a beginner with my troubleshooting skills but am eager to learn. I have a new to me 83 air cooled.

The water pump is the in-tank submersible kind. When I turn the faucet on nothing happens. I have not tried it with water in the tank. I understand the basics of a volt meter but am unsure on how to test as stated above "check for good ground at pump. Check for 12v at both fuses by driver's seat. Check for 12v on each side of faucet switch." I am almost embarrassed to ask Embarassed but can someone tell me how to perform this diagnostic check?

Also, to pull the pump out and test with a battery, do I need to pull the wires out all the way back to the faucet?


Thanks in advance,,,,
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tlbranth
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To check for ground, set your meter to read ohms. Touch the two probes together and it should say zero or close to it. Now touch one probe to the pump wire which is supposed to be grounded and the other to the bus chassis and it should read zero-ish. If not, you don't have a good ground.
To check for 12v, set your meter to the lowest range of DC volts greater than 12. Touch the red probe to where the 12v should be and the other to the chassis of the bus and it should read 12 volts.
The bus chassis is ground and it's hooked to the negative side of your battery. Power from the plus side goes through wires to the various doodads you want to run. Generally, one side of the doodad is grounded and the wire has a switch on it to turn the thing on.
Hope that helps some.
You can get an adequate multimeter from Harbor Freight for free, usually, with a coupon if you buy anything else.
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Satch
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tlbranth wrote:
To check for ground, set your meter to read ohms. Touch the two probes together and it should say zero or close to it. Now touch one probe to the pump wire which is supposed to be grounded and the other to the bus chassis and it should read zero-ish. If not, you don't have a good ground.
To check for 12v, set your meter to the lowest range of DC volts greater than 12. Touch the red probe to where the 12v should be and the other to the chassis of the bus and it should read 12 volts.
The bus chassis is ground and it's hooked to the negative side of your battery. Power from the plus side goes through wires to the various doodads you want to run. Generally, one side of the doodad is grounded and the wire has a switch on it to turn the thing on.
Hope that helps some.
You can get an adequate multimeter from Harbor Freight for free, usually, with a coupon if you buy anything else.



Terry,

Thanks for the guidance! I was out of town but will attempt to tackle this over the weekend.

Weird question, when you say bus chassis what do you mean? Somewhere under the van or anywhere on the body? Seems like I would have trouble reaching the chassis with the multi meter when touching it to the sink pump. Again, I am new at this so please pardon my lack of knowledge.


Thanks
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tlbranth
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ground is anywhere on the chassis or body of the bus. Pick a bolt or screwhead that makes good contact with the metal of the vehicle or go directly to the negative battery terminal . Avoid paint. Sorry about the brevity. I'm on the road using an iPod.
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WhiteBetty
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 2:36 pm    Post subject: Water Faucet Reply with quote

I have a 1985 Vanagon GL. Before doing anything my faucet worked using the "T" side of that tap or switch with the internal pump. I decided I wanted to clean my tank/run some water through the city(hose) connection. After doing so and tank refilled, I turned the tap on, the pump starts, I physically can see water pumping through the line(clear), but water does not come out faucet.

Thought maybe plugged? But water pours through the city(hose) connection side.
Is there a way to prime or purge the line, may be airlocked? Or Should I leave the tap on for a while (fear of burning out pump).

Any advice or tricks?

1985 Vanagon GL
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine did that once. The faucet plastic was broken where the water line attaches. Running the pump a long time might soak everything in you van. Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Water Faucet Reply with quote

WhiteBetty wrote:
I have a 1985 Vanagon GL. Before doing anything my faucet worked using the "T" side of that tap or switch with the internal pump. I decided I wanted to clean my tank/run some water through the city(hose) connection. After doing so and tank refilled, I turned the tap on, the pump starts, I physically can see water pumping through the line(clear), but water does not come out faucet.

Thought maybe plugged? But water pours through the city(hose) connection side.
Is there a way to prime or purge the line, may be airlocked? Or Should I leave the tap on for a while (fear of burning out pump).

Any advice or tricks?

1985 Vanagon GL


Welcome to TheSamba.
I'm assuming that you have a Canadian Westy, with the pump under the sink, as I do (by opposition to those that have the pump in the water tank).
I'm also assuming that you have the original (black) Westfalia/Delta-Six faucet, and not one of the newer (white, sometimes grey or beige, always with a bit of blue) ShureFlo faucet.
Mine won't pump if there's air in the line between the tank and the pump.
It helps to put a fair amount of water in the tank (more is better, at least 1/3 full). It also sometimes help to fiddle with the hose in the various cabinets (lifting and dropping the hose an inch or two). As long as the water level in the tank is a good bit higher than the pump (so don't try this when parked with the front higher than the back), water will get to it at some point.
Despite all this, it may still take a few runs of a few seconds each to prime the pump. I tend to let it cool a bit between runs, just in case.

But my pump output pressure is marginal. Since I can't rule out operator error, I'm not sure you should listen to this advice Laughing

Edit: I just re-read your post, and I'm confused by the "But water pours through the city(hose) connection side." part.
If you meant, "everything works fine when we use the external water inlet port, bypassing the tank and the pump", ignore what follows.
If you meant "with nothing connected on the external water inlet port AND using the pump to get water from the tank, water flows out the van through the external inlet port", it means that the 1-way valve in the hose between the external inlet port and the faucet is defective (a pain to get to, but usually easy to fix).
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2025 8:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Water faucet pump problems Reply with quote

Hey guys I am perplexed with this in tank water pump in my 1982 vanagon.

I have the sureflow faucet and then the standard issue blueish in tank pump with the white power line.

So I have checked the voltage where the circuit meats the line to the water pump. Measuring at those connectors I get 12.8 V as shown and this is of course when the sureflow faucet is just left on to connect the circuit. I have taken the pump out and connected it to a battery and it fires right up no issue... When the pump is plugged into these wires that read 12.8 volts nothing happens. I have tried switching the connections and still nothing.

Every now and then the pump will work which is weird as well and this all started with it becoming intermittent. I just down understand where this disconnect is as I see 12.8 V and then the pump fires right up when connected to the battery.

Here is a pic showing the voltmeter at 12.8
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Then there is also this green cord and then also the black one spliced off, what are these for? I think its something with the tank levels. I saw something in the forum about if the tank level thinks its empty the pump wont work.... correct me if I'm wrong but if the pump should be receiving these 12.8V shouldnt it just work. Im confused on this, not gonna lie


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2025 8:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Water faucet pump problems Reply with quote

12.8 volts is not always what it seems. You are measuring 12.8 but it may be through such a small contact that it won't carry the current needed to operate the pump. Put a small light bulb in series with the meter and see if it lights up and reads voltage, my guess is that it won't.

I had the same symptoms as yours with the Shurflo faucet and covered the symptoms and repair in this thread. I'm going on 7 years of this fix working.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=704908

This post shows how I repaired the switch in the faucet:
jimf909 wrote:
Just as I was about to bypass the Sureflo faucet switch with a separate foot switch I decided to attempt a repair. The tech at Sureflo said the faucet can’t be repaired and should be tossed if it doesn’t work. However, having dissected the previous Shurflo that failed last year I had some idea on how to take it apart:

Separate the knob from the faucet with a solid whack on a screwdriver positioned here. Remember, this is designed to NOT come apart. The first faucet I disassembled ended up looking much worse.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Clean the blackened contacts...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


File down the knob retaining nubs to make future disassembly a hand-to-knob, no tools required affair...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Reassemble. Add an SAE plug to the faucet and van wiring harness to make future disassembly easy.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As to why two Sureflo faucets failed for me in less than a year:
- It’s not current draw while pumping water through the system, I read about 2.5 amps, similar to davevickery and w/in the switch’s 3 amp rating.
- My best guess is that a piece of the pump impeller broke and jammed the pump increasing current load (the impeller appears to be missing a part of itself). If it was a faulty Sureflo product I’m guessing we’d hear about more failures.

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Current: 1990 Westy Camper - Bostig RG4, 2wd, manual trans w/Peloquin, NAHT high-top, 280 ah LFP battery, 160 watts solar, Flash Silver, seam rust, bondo, etc., etc.
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