Rebuild Hardware Kit

[KILLERWATT]

Is there another company that makes a complete hardware kit besides Empi? Using a tourque wrench and even after chasing threads I've stripped out nuts on a couple of builds.

[Glenn]

Ac.net has hardware kits.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי

[KILLERWATT]

[jfats808]

I've probably used 12 sets from empi in 10mm and 8mm. How the he'll did you strip them out? 15-18 lbs on the 8mm, 23 lbs on the 10mm. Center mains 24-28 lbs. Never once stripped a set out. Are u using g the right torque tables?
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD

[KTPhil]

Muffler clamps are notoriously easy to break. Poor quality and the overstressing of the little 10mm nuts and bolts don't help. Make sure everything fits well before torqueing... no burrs or bent parts to have to force.

I use the smaller copper exhaust manifold nuts. Same caution applies-- make sure you aren't using nut torque to deform parts into fitting... file/bend flanges flat and square first.

Main and head nuts are special types and should not be overtorqued, despite the common temptation.

[KILLERWATT]

[modok]

[jfats808]

[Brian71]

A little bit of anti-seize goes a long way in preventing galling.

[esde]

A few 100 count boxes of m8 and m10 nuts and bolts don't cost much and go a very long way. You quickly see that the hardware "kits" aren't really a deal.
Like Modok mentioned, flange nuts are great, and many places carry the small wrench size brass m8 for exhaust studs and such.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[modok]

Bell Metric also sells the thick 8mm washers for head studs, which can be used for other things too. You can get flanged nuts for 6 main the case studs.

[Zundfolge1432]

[modok]

The purpose of a locknut is so that it cam be loose and not vibrate off entirely.

If your case bolts are loose, or fall off entirely, it makes no difference, both=fail. So what's the point? there is none. As far as the case is concerned loose is loose, and as far as oil and air leaks are concerned finger tight is not any different than it fell off. Locktite is also no needed, what would it do? nothing.

Now, for some things locknuts are good. For the one nut inside the case that holds the oil pickup, THAT is the right place for a locknut, because it would prevent the nut falling off and getting sucked into the oil pump should it become loose. It does have a high chance of coming loose too. Or, just use a bolt instead of a stud. For the engine mounts inside the bellhousing, good idea. Seatbelts should have locknuts/lockwashers, any single shear joint probably should have a locknut/lockwasher. The cooling tinshould have locknuts/lockwasehrs, ect. Right nut for the right job.
If you have any questions about hardware or the precise fitting of things in holes just ask this nut

[Zundfolge1432]

[modok]

the bright zinc plating is actually a larger factor, way more difference than the nylon drag.
New bright plated may have 25%less friction than bare steel at first, but after a few uses, it wears off and can be ignored.
If you use brand new bright plated locknuts on the rocker stud, and try 20 ft-lb, I bet it will strip out. The torque it takes to turn a locknut is very small. It's easy to test.....because you have a torque wrench

[KILLERWATT]

[CSEBug]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Beetle-Cylinder-Head-An...43c74acfa0

Also sells one for the 8mm.
Best one out there IMO, has the thick head + case washers

[AlteWagen]

[KILLERWATT]

Our local shop turned me on to this source. All hardware for the entire car including the engine.