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aquifer  Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021 Posts: 328 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 11:20 am Post subject: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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The engine is a 74, stock 1600 dp with a stock 34 pict 3 carburetor and a stock SVDA distributor.
A sudden problem arose after previously running fine. The engine turns over but will not start. Cranks, but no fire, no sputter. I have spark, fuel, compression. Here are more details that might help:
The car hadn’t ran in a while and had bad gas. I drained the gas, took the carb apart and cleaned it up - fuel inlet valve was sticking. Engine fired right up and I drove it around a little bit. Pulled in the garage, shut it off. Next day it fired right up, ran for maybe 3 seconds, and died just like the key had been turned off. No noises, no sputter, just died. Would not restart. I thought of the float valve again, but fuel squirts in from the accelerator pump. Plus, I dumped a bit of gas down the carb just to be sure. It’s not a fuel problem.
The distributor had electronic ignition, but everything inside it was filthy and the pertronix module was loose. I figured that was the problem so I removed the distributor and disassembled it to clean it up. I had another distributor, an SVDA but not exactly the same model number, which has points & condenser. I installed it in the meantime just to get it running. No dice. Still won’t start.
Long story short, as each troubleshooting step failed, I’ve checked for spark, replaced the coil, points, condenser, and spark plugs. The plugs were fouled from the old gas so I thought I was on to something. No dice. Still won’t start.
Once in a while it will backfire while cranking. So I static timed it, good enough that it should start. But nope. It does still backfire though once in a while, so I haven’t ruled out timing. But the rockers are fine, valve gaps are fine.
I must be missing something obvious. Since it wouldn’t start before all the troubleshooting began, and it still won’t start, what am I missing? I’m not a novice, this seems pretty simple to me, but I’m out of ideas.
Any advice, no matter how unlikely, would be appreciated! Thanks _________________ Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated. |
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Max Welton Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 11032 Location: Black Forest, CO
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baldessariclan Samba Member

Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 2026 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Sounds like probably as ignition / timing issue to me, since you are getting an occasional backfire. I'd first double-check on your points condition and gap, and then attempt to static time again. Maybe vary the timing point a little bit at a time from the initial static timed location, until it starts firing more consistently -- doesn't take very much movement for timing to be off enough where it won't fire at all! _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4470 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:03 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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If the first distributor was a 009 your probably 90 degrees off. |
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OldSchoolVW's  Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2020 Posts: 1403 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:11 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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aquifer wrote: |
It does still backfire though once in a while, so I haven’t ruled out timing. But the rockers are fine, valve gaps are fine.
Any advice, no matter how unlikely, would be appreciated! Thanks |
Check the condition of the spark plug wires. If old they may be cracked and could be arcing or grounding.
You say hit hasn't run for awhile. A critter may have gotten in the engine bay and gnawed through the insulation. Same intermittent arcing/grounding could be happening. Had this problem with my Tacoma. Replaced the damaged wire and it fired right up and purred.
Have someone crank it while it is dark in the garage and have a look at the engine bay. You may see a bit of a light show.  _________________ Tom
"Following distance is proportional to IQ."
"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." Warren Miller
"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing." Wernher von Braun
'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback |
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baldessariclan Samba Member

Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 2026 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:16 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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bsairhead wrote: |
If the first distributor was a 009 your probably 90 degrees off. |
Oh yeah -- that's a good call and thing to check as well! Make sure you're at TDC for cylinder #1 (not #3), and that your rotor is pointing to the wire that goes to cylinder #1. _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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aquifer  Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021 Posts: 328 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:20 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Thanks for the suggestions. Brand new points, plugs, condenser, so I don’t think it’s that, but I’m intrigued by the timing idea. Both distributors are SVDA but not the same model numbers. They appear to be identical to me. The vacuum canister is facing the rear which it was on the other one too. I know that’s not definitive for timing, but I think they generally face the rear, so I think the timing is reasonably close. Yet there’s still a backfire once in a while.
Still, the coincidence that both distributors result in the same no-start problem is not very likely. I’m thinking about the backfire. Something isn’t quite right here. I’m going to examine the plug wires more carefully. I got spark when I checked them the first time though. Hmm….
I appreciate all suggestions. _________________ Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated. |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4470 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:30 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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I would re eyeball my wires. |
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aquifer  Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021 Posts: 328 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:31 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Something I just thought of:
I’m either at TDC of 1 or 3. The rotor is pointing “southwest” which is the plug wire going to #1 so I assumed it’s TDC of #1. But is southwest where #1 should fire? Maybe this distributor is different, and the problem with the other one was truly a coincidence? Maybe the rotor shaft is off 180 degrees and the engine is at TDC of #3 even though the rotor is pointing to #1 wire. I’m grasping at straws here. _________________ Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated. |
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Cusser Samba Member

Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 33049 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 12:34 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Go back to basics
Spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carburetor throat, try to start, do this a few times. If it runs for a few seconds then quits out, you have a fuel delivery issue, start there. If it won't run at all when you do this, then it's a spark issue, work on that. This is a common first test to help isolate the problem. This is practically an ALWAYS: isolate whether spark or fuel. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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aquifer  Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021 Posts: 328 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 1:28 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Ok I found the problem. The two distributors are 180 degrees off from each other. I put it at TDC and popped open the valve covers. Even though the rotor was pointing southwest at the wire going to #1, it was #3 that was at TDC. So I switched the wires and bingo! Fired right up.
I suspect that someone installed the cog on the other distributor wrong and just made the plug wires match. After I switched the wires, TDC of #1 now faces northeast which is probably the correct way. So I truly did have a coincidence here. The problem with the first distributor was that the pertronix was loose, and the plug wires caused this one to be wrong.
I also have a bad plug wire going to #1 so I’ll get a new set. Anyway, mystery solved! Thanks for the ideas, everything helps to narrow down the problem. I needed to dwell more on the backfire and timing, which was the problem. _________________ Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated. |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4470 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 4:44 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Glad to here you figured it out. Yes the dog can be 180 out. You now know to note the rotor direction from the first distributor matches the next. As long as you have room to time it 'the can' and your plug wires reach it makes no difference. Unless it's an old unit with the #3 mentally challenged.  |
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ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16555 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 4:50 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Just a follow up for anyone reading this for tips on fixing their own problem.
When you are considering the removal of your distributor and adding a different one in its place... before you remove the old (working?) distributor, manually rotate the crank pulley until the rotor is pointing to the post on the cap where the #1 plug wire is connected. The TDC (or timing) mark on the crank pulley should be close to the case split. You now know your rotor is pointing to the #1 post on the cap and your crank+cam is at the end of the compression stroke for cylinder #1.
Now remove the distributor and install the new one. Making sure the cog at the bottom of the distributor mates properly with the gear down in the case. It only fits one way. Rotate the distributor body until the #1 post notch on the rim of the body is below the rotor tip. Now this notch represents where the #1 plug wire belongs.
Note where the rotor is pointing. This is where the #1 plug wire MUST be placed... even if you disagree. The engine was ready to ignite cylinder #1 when you removed the old distributor and you didn't rotate the crank so it is STILL expecting the distributor to deliver a spark to #1 spark plug. As the one installing the distributor YOU need to make sure to install the wires so the rotor delivers a spark to the #1 spark plug. The remaining wires are installed around the cap in the 1-4-3-2 CW firing order.
If you forgot to manually position the engine at the end of the compression stroke for #1 cylinder you can determine where this is by watching the #1 rocker arms as you rotate the crank pulley CW. Watch the #1 intake valve open and close. Once fully closed you will be at the end of the intake stroke. Rotate the crank CW another 180deg until the timing/TDC mark lines up with the case split. Now you are at the end of the compression stroke for #1.
I'm assuming you did something similar to determine you were at #1 TDC even if the rotor was pointing in the wrong direction? _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4470 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Fri May 30, 2025 8:36 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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If the distributor drive is not installed by the book, 'i would say correctly' but it matters not. The can may not allow the lining up of the rotor with the motor on cylinder one compression to the notch on the distributor body. It does not matter. What matters is the rotor position to a cap wire. And of course "zunfolge"1432 |
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tasb The Distributor Distributor
Joined: April 27, 2002 Posts: 6734 Location: Pentwater, Michigan
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 5:11 am Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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SVDA vacuum canisters will/should have a three digit number on the pull arm. This became necessary because at that time all the canisters looked the same and a part number allowed us to tell them apart. _________________ Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018
1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc
1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse
Member# 2059 |
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aquifer  Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2021 Posts: 328 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 6:24 am Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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ashman40 wrote: |
Just a follow up for anyone reading this for tips on fixing their own problem.
When you are considering the removal of your distributor and adding a different one in its place... before you remove the old (working?) distributor, manually rotate the crank pulley until the rotor is pointing to the post on the cap where the #1 plug wire is connected. The TDC (or timing) mark on the crank pulley should be close to the case split. You now know your rotor is pointing to the #1 post on the cap and your crank+cam is at the end of the compression stroke for cylinder #1.
Now remove the distributor and install the new one. Making sure the cog at the bottom of the distributor mates properly with the gear down in the case. It only fits one way. Rotate the distributor body until the #1 post notch on the rim of the body is below the rotor tip. Now this notch represents where the #1 plug wire belongs.
Note where the rotor is pointing. This is where the #1 plug wire MUST be placed... even if you disagree. The engine was ready to ignite cylinder #1 when you removed the old distributor and you didn't rotate the crank so it is STILL expecting the distributor to deliver a spark to #1 spark plug. As the one installing the distributor YOU need to make sure to install the wires so the rotor delivers a spark to the #1 spark plug. The remaining wires are installed around the cap in the 1-4-3-2 CW firing order.
If you forgot to manually position the engine at the end of the compression stroke for #1 cylinder you can determine where this is by watching the #1 rocker arms as you rotate the crank pulley CW. Watch the #1 intake valve open and close. Once fully closed you will be at the end of the intake stroke. Rotate the crank CW another 180deg until the timing/TDC mark lines up with the case split. Now you are at the end of the compression stroke for #1.
I'm assuming you did something similar to determine you were at #1 TDC even if the rotor was pointing in the wrong direction? |
This is good advice, and I should have taken care to set the engine at TDC of #1 before I pulled the distributor out. When I installed the other distributor, I think I would have immediately noticed that I had a problem. It might have taken me a while to figure out what was going on because at first I probably would have assumed that I had unwittingly set it at #3 instead of #1. But at least I would have been on the right path from the start. .
And yes, after it was too late, I needed to determine if the engine was at TDC of #1 or #3, so I popped the valve covers off and discovered that the ENGINE was at TDC of #3 (not #1), even though the ROTOR was pointing at the #1 plug wire. That told me that the dog was 180 degrees off compared to the first distributor. It’s very satisfying when the answer comes and the light bulb turns on!
Anyway, the new points and condenser I installed while troubleshooting can stay even though the old ones were likely just fine. The new plugs were needed, but I’ll put the old coil back on because I’m sure there was nothing wrong with it. I was just grasping at straws until I finally figured out what the real problem was.
One other quesiton for those in the know: is it more “normal” now, with my #1 plug wire on the northeast side of the distributor, or is it equally likely that a rotor would point southwest to find the #1 plug wire? I understand that it doesn’t really matter, and that I should have determined TDC before I removed the distributor, but for future reference when I reassemble the first distributor, is it more normal to set it so it finds #1 at a northeast location? I will install the dog accordingly. I guess what I’m asking, was the first distributor’s dog correct pointing SW, or the second one pointing NE? _________________ Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated. |
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Cusser Samba Member

Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 33049 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 7:48 am Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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aquifer wrote: |
I should have taken care to set the engine at TDC of #1 before I pulled the distributor out. |
YES. For all vehicles that have distributors (like my 5). _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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heimlich  VWNOS.com

Joined: November 20, 2016 Posts: 7470 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 8:45 am Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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Using TDC is the best way to set up your distributor. You should not make any assumptions about the drive gearing being installed the correct way. _________________ www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here) |
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baldessariclan Samba Member

Joined: October 14, 2016 Posts: 2026 Location: Wichita, KS
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 10:39 am Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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aquifer wrote: |
One other quesiton for those in the know: is it more “normal” now, with my #1 plug wire on the northeast side of the distributor, or is it equally likely that a rotor would point southwest to find the #1 plug wire? I understand that it doesn’t really matter, and that I should have determined TDC before I removed the distributor, but for future reference when I reassemble the first distributor, is it more normal to set it so it finds #1 at a northeast location? I will install the dog accordingly. I guess what I’m asking, was the first distributor’s dog correct pointing SW, or the second one pointing NE? |
As others have noted, the alignment of the distributor’s rotor to its body (i.e. as determined by the the underlying distributor drive gear’s alignment) isn’t absolutely critical, so long as it’s pointing at the spark plug wire going to cylinder #1 when you’re at TDC.
However, just FYI here’s what the alignment of the distributor drive gear is supposed to be like, as per the Bentley service manual:
If you’re got your drive gear aligned close to that orientation, along with a stock distributor for your engine, then your rotor will usually correctly line up w/ the corresponding mark on the distributor’s body when you’re at TDC. _________________ 1971 Standard Beetle — fairly stock / driver
baldessariclan -- often in error, never in doubt... |
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bsairhead Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008 Posts: 4470 Location: viroqua wi.
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Posted: Sat May 31, 2025 3:23 pm Post subject: Re: Engine won’t start - no obvious reason |
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SW or NE neither. About 20 minutes past the hour looking down if the front of the car was at 12 oclock. So SE. |
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