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Vanapplebomb Samba Member

Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5572 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 6:17 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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chrisflstf wrote: |
Ok, Here is a machining question/tooling question. How can someone with a drill press, small X & Y table, dremel, files, welder, saws, etc make something to do a simple 30 degree backcut on 4 intake valves? The width of the cut needs to be about .025” My mind draws a blank
I watched a guy on you tube hand hold a dewalt against a small bench sander to do it, and although, it wasn’t bad, no way would I try that
Yeah I can send the valves out or find a local head shop, but I like to experiment when possible. |
I have seen guys chuck up a grinder in a vice and spin a valve in the chuck. I wouldn’t do it to cut the face which needs to be dead nuts concentric to the stem, but a back cut doesn’t have to be particularly accurate, so it works.
People have even done back cuts with a drill press and file by eye. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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Brian_e  Samba Member

Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 4083 Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 7:00 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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chrisflstf wrote: |
Ok, Here is a machining question/tooling question. How can someone with a drill press, small X & Y table, dremel, files, welder, saws, etc make something to do a simple 30 degree backcut on 4 intake valves? The width of the cut needs to be about .025” My mind draws a blank
I watched a guy on you tube hand hold a dewalt against a small bench sander to do it, and although, it wasn’t bad, no way would I try that
Yeah I can send the valves out or find a local head shop, but I like to experiment when possible. |
Put the valve in the drill press chuck. Rig up some way to hold and clamp your dremel in the vice at 30deg. Get a new 3/8 diameter cylinder shaped stone for the dremel.
Leave the vice loose on the drill table. Turn on the chuck and the dremel, and slowly work the vice into the valve by hand. It won’t take much, and hardly any pressure. The weight of the vice should be plenty to keep it all steady.
Practice on a junk valve first.
Brian _________________ So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok
Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com
Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts |
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 7:10 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Quote: |
Put the valve in the drill press chuck. Rig up some way to hold and clamp your dremel in the vice at 30deg. Get a new 3/8 diameter cylinder shaped stone for the dremel.
Leave the vice loose on the drill table. Turn on the chuck and the dremel, and slowly work the vice into the valve by hand. It won’t take much, and hardly any pressure. The weight of the vice should be plenty to keep it all steady.
Practice on a junk valve first.
Brian |
It just dawned on me the drill press table tilts ( forgot about that). So there is the answer to my 30 degree dilemma. Valves are cheap, so Imma gonna give it a try. Thanks!  |
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nsracing Samba Member

Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9744 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 10:30 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Those are all the wrong tools for working on valves -
Don't treat your precision parts like that. If you don't have the proper tools, leave them alone.
At minimum, you need a lathe to do the back cut. Accuracy is key - if your valves are all different shapes, how do you expect them to flow properly? Those angles have to be similar valve to valve.
The best way is just buy you a proper valve grinder and seat grinder. They are all over Ebay - |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member

Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5572 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 1:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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The back cut on a valve isn’t super critical. I say go for it. Try it on a junk valve first. As long as you keep the grinder clamped steady so the angle doesn't drift while it’s running, you will be fine. The runout of the chuck on the drill press shouldn’t be more than 5 thou or so. Heck, it’s probably as good or better than the antique black and decker valve grinding machines that are all over the place. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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nsracing Samba Member

Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9744 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 5:20 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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The most worn out valve grinder will still be way better than any handheld grinder of any brand.
But hey - try the handheld grind back cut and show pics here. Maybe we can see how good one's dexterity is. Should be fun to watch.
Maybe post a video -  |
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2022 5:57 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Here u go. Not hand held, actually clamped good in the jaws. No way for the dremel, lol. I may experiment swapping it around some , before i test it out. And i will need to figure out measuring the cut angle as the adaptor has a fair amount of play in the chuck. But i can compensate, if i know the cut angle.
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member

Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5572 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 7:40 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Nice work. I am sure that will work well. May be a little slow, but should work fine. Valve grinders are quicker and are easier to get a consistent width of the back cut. However, with a bit of time and care, you can get good results with the set up you have.
I actually know a guy who reground his worn out R8 spindle taper in his Bridgeport mill by clamping a die grinder in his mill vice, angled the head to match the taper, then with the mill and die grinder running, fed the grinder into the spindle. Turned out great. He checked it with bluing and a good R8 arbor. Even blue coverage everywhere. Took his spindle runout from about 0.001” inches to about 0.0002. Not perfect, but probably better concentricity than most collets on the market today.
Just goes to show that you can get good results with basic tools, a little ingenuity, and patients.  _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 8:26 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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My version of adding a DRO, lol.  |
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 27721 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2022 2:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Your valve grinder setup is very far from optimum, but there are some good ideas in there too.
I like the idea of the valve held vertically, and using the angle meter.  |
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nsracing Samba Member

Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9744 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 5:31 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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I don't think that angle attachment is gonna be fast enough to do grinding w/ that iddy-biddy stone. Maybe use a Dremel tool instead?
I can see a toolpost grinder bolted to the table and just swing it over to the valve to remove material. Maybe a 2-inch wheel?
For grinding, the chucking head only needs to spin very slow. But the grinder wheel needs to be spinning pretty fast if it is small diameter. |
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 6:53 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Thanks for the input. I was wondering about the speeds. Ive made a couple changes, so just waiting for some valves to try out |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member

Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5572 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 7:44 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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oprn wrote: |
My lathe is an old belt drive South Bend with a drawer full of gears for threading. It’s well used and could use some work but I wouldn’t be without it! |
I have been torn between an old quick change south bend 13, and a Miller 220 Multimatic welder. The number of times I have had use for a lathe is, well… I can’t count. Those old south bend lathes definitely lack some features standard on modern lathes, but boy do they have a nice surface finish. Something about the flat belt drive and plane bearings makes them super smooth.
However, I have also wanted a welder that can do more than steel. The multimatic would be great away from home because I would only have to move one machine to mig, stick, or tig. The 220 also does AC tig. I would love to learn aluminum welding… again, the number of times I have wanted to do that…
it’s pretty much a dead heat between the two. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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volk263 Samba Member

Joined: November 21, 2006 Posts: 119 Location: Alabama
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Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2022 4:55 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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He are some pics of my Rung Fu RF-31 mill that I use to cut a case for bigger cylinders and to deck the case.
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2022 2:42 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Well, My experiment to back cut valves didn’t go well. The stone does not leave a very smooth finish. I think its wobble in the spindle of the stone attachment tool
( right angle drill adaptor). My 30 degree angle seems right on tho
Cut on left, virgin on right
So next stop – machine stop. But hey, don’t know what will work until you try
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Brian_e  Samba Member

Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 4083 Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
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Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2022 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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chrisflstf wrote: |
Well, My experiment to back cut valves didn’t go well. The stone does not leave a very smooth finish. I think its wobble in the spindle of the stone attachment tool
( right angle drill adaptor). My 30 degree angle seems right on tho
Cut on left, virgin on right
So next stop – machine stop. But hey, don’t know what will work until you try
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The cut doesn't need to be super smooth. The valve isn't sealing anything there, just getting it out of the way of the air. I actually prefer them super rough, just like my ports.
Lap them to show where the seats land, and send them up here. I will roll out the 1930's Sioux valve facer, and toss a back cut on them for you.
Brian _________________ So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok
Narrowed beams, Drop adjustable spring plates, Bus disk brake and IRS kits.
www.type-emotorsports.com
Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts |
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modok Samba Member

Joined: October 30, 2009 Posts: 27721 Location: Colorado Springs
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Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2022 4:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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chrisflstf wrote: |
Well, My experiment to back cut valves didn’t go well. The stone does not leave a very smooth finish. I think its wobble in the spindle of the stone attachment tool
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Correct. You need precision bearings and a well dressed grinding wheel, and a better chuck too. Best way to learn is try |
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jpaull Samba Member

Joined: February 22, 2005 Posts: 3652 Location: Paradise, Ca
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Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2022 8:21 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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volk263 wrote: |
He are some pics of my Rung Fu RF-31 mill that I use to cut a case for bigger cylinders and to deck the case.
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Nice!! This is super interesting. How did the case bores come out? Very nice way of mounting, but did having just 1 hold down on each side keep it tight enough?
Also, i see that you have the DRO installed, Is your DRO X axis slide reader on the back side of the table? Im curious how you mounted it. |
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volk263 Samba Member

Joined: November 21, 2006 Posts: 119 Location: Alabama
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Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2022 7:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Cylinder bores come out good. You have to keep the runout in the spindle bearings checked and adjust the cutters according. Yes one hold down on each side is plenty. The scale is on the back side of the X axis. The Rong Fu mill comes with the mounting holes tapped for this brand DRO it is a simple bolt on
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chrisflstf Samba Member

Joined: February 10, 2004 Posts: 4136 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2022 6:48 am Post subject: Re: The Machine Work Thread |
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Where do you buy those giant 1 x 2 x 3 blocks? |
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