The Stupid Question Thread

[robhead]

Feel free to skip to the bottom if you don't want the history lesson.

So back in 1984 when I was 12, my VW obsession began when I met my 69 and immediately fell in love with it, the only problem was it belonged to my cousins in a city 4 hours away. Fast forward 16 years, 4 beetles, and 2 buses later, my aunt finally agrees to sell me the 69 when it sprung a leak and stunk-up her garage (fuel line under tank rotted). They weren't driving it at the time, but they would occasionally start it and let it warm up, which she then said that the engine (1500 SP) had a warped cylinder after my uncle got drunk and over-rev'd it.

When I got it home and fixed the fuel leak, it didn't take much tinkering and I was able to get it started and I drove it around the yard, for a few minutes until the engine seemed to seize. Once it cooled down, I was able to start it again with the same results. I pulled that engine out and put in a 1600 DP I took from one of my busses.

So anyway, here I am 25 years later, still have the 69, and that 1500 is still sitting on the floor in my shop covered in dust, with a few parts borrowed but the long block is intact. One of my sons has taken an interest in my hobby and I was thinking it may finally be time to rebuild that engine. While I've rebuilt many small engines (lawn equipment) in my youth working in a small engine repair shop, I have never tackled an AC 1600. I was hoping to do just a top end and not crack the case.

What sort of evidence should I look for that would indicate a full rebuild is necessary? Is it more likely that the head is warped rather than a cylinder? Is there a clear tell if either is warped? I believe this motor may have been rebuilt before, so I'm not sure what the current bore situation is. All advice, or even snark, is welcome

[BCE56]

What would cause front disc brakes (Empi conversion) failure to retract/remain in contact with rotor?
During a short drive yesterday, I noticed reduced pedal free play, brakes were dragging. Discs were very hot.

No previous issues since professional installation 6K miles ago.
Rear drum brakes apparently not affected. Parking brake functions normally.
_________________
=BCE56=

'86 Syncro Tintop
EJ22, OBD II SmallCar adapter plate conversion

Side project: '69 Frankenbug now driven daily.

[mikeonthebike]

[vamram]

[BCE56]

[Cusser]

[BCE56]

[RobinaWhatev]

Hi, first time poster and new owner of a '72 Super, runs but needs some love. Can anyone tell me what these disconnected tubes are for under the steering wheel (circled in yellow)? Car came to me with these both disconnected. Not wires, clearly tubes. I'm guessing wiper fluid pressure tube? (I know the wiper fluid is powered by air pressure in the spare). Turn signals and wipers themselves work fine, horn does not.

Thanks,
R

[mikeonthebike]

[BCE56]

[jinx758]

I'm B-A-C-K ... !

Yesterday my '71 died pulling into parking space at store. Struggled to start but got me home - about 7miles.

Re-gapped points, static timed, & would only crank.
Put back-up distributor in with new condenser. Reset point gap (ones that came in "new" distributor) got ready to static time the distributor. Purchased in about 2017, never installed, stored indoors in a Ziploc freezer bag.
Test light stays lit all the time.
W-T-H
I can see point gap separate but light stays on open or closed.

Did my coil short out ?

Open to suggestions.

Thanks ... stay safe... jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[mukluk]

[jinx758]

Thanks for responding ...

Healthy double stream squirt when throttle is cycled & instant (EGAS38mm carburetor).
Solid bright light on POS coil terminal backed up by 12.7VDC from multimeter with key on.

NEG of test light on bent tab the decklid catches on body - bare metal showing through 3 layers of paint with no rust.
POS on same distributor tab green condenser wire is attached to (NEG). Test light stays on no matter if points are open or closed.

Will pull spark plug to test for actual spark & use ohmmeter on points plate, tomorrow.
Condenser wire is new out of the box & ohmed out from female tab to rubber stopper & open from rubber stopper wire to condenser case. Yes, wire inside distributor is shiny, tight, & connected.

Thanks for the path ... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[mukluk]

[mukluk]

[jinx758]

Er, um ... not yet.
Put a belt & tensioner on wife's daily & 3days later she pulls up with her car screeching like a cat with its tail under a rocking chair. All pulleys had checked out & noise coming between the engine & radiator.

I'm elbows deep in replacing the turbo on her chevy 1.4ltr.
$600 part at FLAPS ... ouch
Worst Engine Ever !

It has 1364cc & my bug has 1776cc ... (eye roll emoji)
It has trouble on slight uphills. When she "floors it" we hear it scream "Ouch, don't, stop, you're hurting me"
ROFLMAO

Back to bug this weekend... stay safe

jinx
_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[RMD3819]

About a block from the house wife ran out of fuel in the 69.

She put a small amount in from a neighbor which was enough to get home.

Car has been sitting a few weeks and now won’t start after adding more fuel.

Tried a jump which did nothing. The fuel filter is empty and when cranking can see fuel bubbling into it but not filling past the very bottom. This makes me think the carb isn’t getting fuel.

My non VW neighbors have suggested using the following in the carb:

-Carb cleaner (which I have)

-Starting fluid (which I don’t have)

-Fuel directly in the carb.

Thoughts, ideas?

[OldSchoolVW's]

[mukluk]

[Cusser]