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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5174
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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 Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Many successful business people have a string of failed businesses behind them. Irritating as it is, you've made the right choice. |
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PLF-Blue
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014
Posts: 327
Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="curtis408
journey will be worry free....[/quote]
Ha ha! Well, maybe not free
But yeah, i get it. Always a big learning curve with a new-to-you car. Its all just a big test for a while. No worries. We wll be back on the road with her. This trip was just starting to get that feeling, the feeling when you should turn around before it gets worse. Cant really explain it but it wa the same feeling when we took an old mustang up to Hot August Nights... Turned out really bad and avoidable if i would have listened to the little voice in my head...
[/i]
_________________
..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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PLF-Blue
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014
Posts: 327
Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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THE LITTLE VOICE WAS RIGHT!
Woke up at home this morning and went out to clean the bus out and smelled a little gas. Hey, guess what, a small tear between the pump and filter.
Keep 'em coming! It is a JOURNEY whether on the road or not, right?
_________________
..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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PLF-Blue
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014
Posts: 327
Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Alright, ran down and got a new gates hose for the larger diameter section between the filter and the pump and got the leak stopped. Then left all the tools in the garage and did nothing vw related.
Looked back over the PO receipts and workorders - saw new fuel pump from one year ago but apparently he only changed the fuel lines forward of that. I see what appears to be original lines from the tank to the pump. Missed that when i looked initially as i was just looking forward.... Lesson learned. Going to assume from here on out that maintenance has been cheaply done and fixing the problem at hand.
Made a list last night of things to do over the next few weeks - (more for myself)---
-Replace every single fuel line...
-starter and hard relay
-Cvs and axles (inspect, may go all new)
-Install tach
-New ignition components and full tune up(despite receipt for 'tune up' done 2 months prior to taking possession), timing, valves, oil change
-Electric washer reservoir or repair the current which spews water onto my crotch when activated.
-Inspect, new vacuum lines throughout
-Heater tubes/hoses
-Adjust e-brake
-New door seals
-New shocks
-Inspect exhaust leak and repair
-Replace clutch cable
-That little bushing where the shifter is vibrating just on the other side of the floor and going to make me insane-ier!.....
-Check trans fluid
-Wheel bearings
-Couple little interior things
-Check and replace anything else that looks like it may be stock/worn out/close to failure/result of non-maintenance in past
-Stock up on beer for nightly sessions when i go around and pick up all the tools that i have thrown across the driveway.
Anything else while i am under there? Time is plentiful, money is not as much but still budgeted.
_________________
..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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Tcash
Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12843
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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| PLF-Blue wrote: |
Alright, ran down and got a new gates hose for the larger diameter section between the filter and the pump and got the leak stopped. Then left all the tools in the garage and did nothing vw related.
Looked back over the PO receipts and workorders - saw new fuel pump from one year ago but apparently he only changed the fuel lines forward of that. I see what appears to be original lines from the tank to the pump. Missed that when i looked initially as i was just looking forward.... Lesson learned. Going to assume from here on out that maintenance has been cheaply done and fixing the problem at hand.
Made a list last night of things to do over the next few weeks - (more for myself)---
-Replace every single fuel line...
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html
-Starter and hard start relay
Replacing starter bushing
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/169/24059-08/
For future reference:How to fix a sticky starter
-Cvs and axles (inspect, may go all new)
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-16-2232
http://www.rockfordcv.com/Bootkit_list_prices.htm#BK814-21
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&p=6929453
How to Remove Stripped CV Bolt Head
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1037757.jpg
http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item/4055868/5749889.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0162...ngMachine=
-Install tach
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=55602
-New ignition components and full tune up(despite receipt for 'tune up' done 2 months prior to taking possession), Plugs, Valves, Dwell, Wires, Cap & rotor, Timing.
Electronic Ignition and throw the old points & condenser in a box for backup.
Purchase the correct coil for the Electronic Ign. Save old coil back up.
Lubing the Distributor
-Electric washer reservoir or repair the current switch spews water onto my crotch when activated.
-Inspect, new vacuum lines throughout
Replace all vacuum hoses.
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses.html
-Heater tubes/hoses
-Adjust e-brake
Remove and lube brake adjusters and rubbing points.
Brake fluid change and bleed.
-New door seals
Research these. There have been reports of the seals being to thick which requires slamming the door to get it to shut.
-New shocks
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Koni.html
http://www.busdepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Koni&dir=desc&order=default_sort_order
http://www.jegs.com/i/KYB/575/KG4521/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/KYB/575/KG4521/10002/-1
-Inspect exhaust leak and repair
Type 4 Exhaust
Use Copper Nuts
-Replace clutch cable
Buy two, one for a spare and a extra throttle cable as well.
Lube the mechanical parts.
-That little bushing where the shifter is vibrating just on the other side of the floor and going to make me insane-ier!.....
Inspect the little pin and spring in the shifter ball as well as all visible bushings.
Shifter Parts ID
-Check trans fluid
Change trans fluid with the proper GL-4 fluid and get 2 extra pints for the road.
-Wheel bearings
Clean inspect and repack if you can. New one's have been reported to fail in short order. Not a bad idea to have seals, one inner and one outer in stock.
Early bus but will give you the idea.
IRS Rear Wheel Bearing Repack/Replace
-Couple little interior things
Zip tye E-Switch together.
Inspect light switch rheostat.Headlight Switch/ Dimmer- Rheostat
Voltage drop, test ignition switch and replace if necessary.
Clean and lube turn & wiper switches.
-Check and replace anything else that looks like it may be stock/worn out/close to failure/result of non-maintenance in past
Clean and seal all grounds.
Replace all exterior bulbs and clean sockets.
Have Flaps test battery and alternator after you fix starter.
Voltage drop test battery cables and replace if needed.
If you don't know when the brake hoses where last replaced. Replace them.
-Stock up on beer for nightly sessions when i go around and pick up all the tools that i have thrown across the driveway.
When you pick them up. Put them in a toolbox for the bus, you may need them on the road.
Anything else while i am under there? Time is plentiful, money is not as much but still budgeted. |
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Stuartzickefoose
Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008
Posts: 10350
Location: SoCal for now...
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| Posted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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how are your tires looking? not a bad time to look at a good load rated set if they current ones are worn or not load rated. i would recommend BFG's for the trip, great tire on and off road. RA08 close second.
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Wasted youth
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012
Posts: 5174
Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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| Posted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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Guiding Light Award once again goes to Tcash! 
 That looks like more than a few weeks of work to me, but I don't get to play every day.
As an added expense... I would seriously look at your brake booster and master cylinder if you are still planning on a multi-state trip. That kind of failure could cause a serious, yet preventable delay. |
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PLF-Blue
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014
Posts: 327
Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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| Tcash wrote: |
| PLF-Blue wrote: |
Alright, ran down and got a new gates hose for the larger diameter section between the filter and the pump and got the leak stopped. Then left all the tools in the garage and did nothing vw related.
Looked back over the PO receipts and workorders - saw new fuel pump from one year ago but apparently he only changed the fuel lines forward of that. I see what appears to be original lines from the tank to the pump. Missed that when i looked initially as i was just looking forward.... Lesson learned. Going to assume from here on out that maintenance has been cheaply done and fixing the problem at hand.
Made a list last night of things to do over the next few weeks - (more for myself)---
-Replace every single fuel line...
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html
-Starter and hard start relay
Replacing starter bushing
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/169/24059-08/
For future reference:How to fix a sticky starter
-Cvs and axles (inspect, may go all new)
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-16-2232
http://www.rockfordcv.com/Bootkit_list_prices.htm#BK814-21
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/posting.php?mode=quote&p=6929453
How to Remove Stripped CV Bolt Head
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1037757.jpg
http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item/4055868/5749889.htm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwmuZuJ02I
https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0162...ngMachine=
-Install tach
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=55602
-New ignition components and full tune up(despite receipt for 'tune up' done 2 months prior to taking possession), Plugs, Valves, Dwell, Wires, Cap & rotor, Timing.
Electronic Ignition and throw the old points & condenser in a box for backup.
Purchase the correct coil for the Electronic Ign. Save old coil back up.
Lubing the Distributor
-Electric washer reservoir or repair the current switch spews water onto my crotch when activated.
-Inspect, new vacuum lines throughout
Replace all vacuum hoses.
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VacuumHoses.html
-Heater tubes/hoses
-Adjust e-brake
Remove and lube brake adjusters and rubbing points.
Brake fluid change and bleed.
-New door seals
Research these. There have been reports of the seals being to thick which requires slamming the door to get it to shut.
-New shocks
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Koni.html
http://www.busdepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Koni&dir=desc&order=default_sort_order
http://www.jegs.com/i/KYB/575/KG4521/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/KYB/575/KG4521/10002/-1
-Inspect exhaust leak and repair
Type 4 Exhaust
Use Copper Nuts
-Replace clutch cable
Buy two, one for a spare and a extra throttle cable as well.
Lube the mechanical parts.
-That little bushing where the shifter is vibrating just on the other side of the floor and going to make me insane-ier!.....
Inspect the little pin and spring in the shifter ball as well as all visible bushings.
Shifter Parts ID
-Check trans fluid
Change trans fluid with the proper GL-4 fluid and get 2 extra pints for the road.
-Wheel bearings
Clean inspect and repack if you can. New one's have been reported to fail in short order. Not a bad idea to have seals, one inner and one outer in stock.
Early bus but will give you the idea.
IRS Rear Wheel Bearing Repack/Replace
-Couple little interior things
Zip tye E-Switch together.
Inspect light switch rheostat.Headlight Switch/ Dimmer- Rheostat
Voltage drop, test ignition switch and replace if necessary.
Clean and lube turn & wiper switches.
-Check and replace anything else that looks like it may be stock/worn out/close to failure/result of non-maintenance in past
Clean and seal all grounds.
Replace all exterior bulbs and clean sockets.
Have Flaps test battery and alternator after you fix starter.
Voltage drop test battery cables and replace if needed.
If you don't know when the brake hoses where last replaced. Replace them.
-Stock up on beer for nightly sessions when i go around and pick up all the tools that i have thrown across the driveway.
When you pick them up. Put them in a toolbox for the bus, you may need them on the road.
Anything else while i am under there? Time is plentiful, money is not as much but still budgeted. |
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Holy smokes.... Thank you, my man!
Its like my own thesamba here
_________________
..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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PLF-Blue
Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2014
Posts: 327
Location: Nevada, tahoe, and elsewhere
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| Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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| Stuartzickefoose wrote: |
| how are your tires looking? not a bad time to look at a good load rated set if they current ones are worn or not load rated. i would recommend BFG's for the trip, great tire on and off road. RA08 close second. |
Oh, and the PO installed the RA08 along with new brakes, lines, master, etc all the way up about 2k miles ago according to the receipt.
Good thing too as i took one look at the tire sticky and thought there was no way i was going to go through 130+ pages!...
_________________
..."I live in my own little world. but it's ok, they know me here." -L. Myracle |
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