Front disc brake conversion

[malabarjake]

G'day,
So this is where i am at after reading this thread (over a couple of days)
I have an early split, to fit 944 discs on the front I need to machine the hubs and get matching bearings to suit (there is a kit for this) I also need an adaptor kit to fit the caliper.

I am running beetle IRS on the rear so I can just bolt on the 944 backing plate, using the 944 bolts and the whole 944 disc package will work.

I have read and researched and think this is right?

I am going to buy the hubs and adaptor kit for the front (not sure from who yet any suggestions will be welcomed) but need the backing plate and calipers and the rears, where is best to source these from please?


Thank you for the thread, it has been a great help so far.

[zozo]

Well, I just ordered the AC kit for my '65. I hope it goes as smoothly as everyone says.

For those of y'all that have installed it, are there any gotchas or recommendations for other stuff that I should go ahead and order to have on hand for the upgrade?

[pyrOman]

The easiest set up I’ve done! As with any other when switching to dual master, reshaping the brake lines to fit is always a PITA.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[zozo]

[zozo]

[zozo]

The disc calipers have two bleeders, an upper and lower. Is there a prescribed method for these? Lower then upper? Upper then lower?

[pyrOman]

[zozo]

[zozo]

Bought the MityVac kit to bleed it. Junk. The reservoir is a $0.05 piece of plastic that won’t hold a vacuum, so the whole kit is useless. Refund time, and manual bleeding like I should’ve done in the first place.

[Bruce Amacker]

[flemcadiddlehopper]

Agree completely .

One added note though, Sometimes a vacuum bleeder is not the best way to bleed drum brakes. Sometimes the vacuum that it takes to draw the fluid past the valve at the MC is higher than what it takes to draw air past the cups in the wheel cylinders. This can make it seem as though the system is full of air. Just make sure you always finish with a pressure (pump and hold) bleed in the end.

Gordo.
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Everybody Dies....Some Never Live.

Retrograde Garage. Vintage Aircooled, and others.

[zozo]

In this case the pump would pull a great vacuum without the reservoir in place. Add the reservoir and no vacuum. That’s with the bleeder closed of course. To me, that sounds like the reservoir is leaking and preventing a vacuum from building. If I’m missing something, let me know. I’m rather obsessive about following instructions. I did that as well as watched countless YouTube videos. I feel confident that I’m “doing it correctly,” but am not adverse to finding out I’ve made a boneheaded mistake. I just want my brakes to be bled.

[pyrOman]

FWIW, the vacuum type “bleeders” (suckers) do suck air through the bleeder spout threads as soon as you crack them open. I have used a bit of Teflon tape on the threads to minimize the issue. It’s still better to have help to bleed them properly. I’ve also use the vacuum pump when by myself but do bleed them again once someone shows up.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[Daddybus]

1) You get yourself a wife
2) Have a kid
3) Wait 4-5 years
4) Have kid pump the brake pedal while you work the bleeders

[62DoKaGuy]

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[zozo]

I used the bottle and hose method and have about 1/2 pedal. Found a minuscule leak and fixed it. I enlisted the help of my granddaughter for a few minutes, but that’s a hard sell on Christmas Day when you’re a kid. I’m getting no air from the back, just solid stream of clear fluid. That’s when she was helping me. No visibility on what the front is doing, I was alone for those. I think with a little help and the conventional old school method, it’ll be fine.

Btw, my wife and daughter are disabled. The other daughter lives elsewhere. I’ve learned to do most things without help, that’s why I was hopeful for the MityVac.

[Bruce Amacker]

A tip to verify that you have no air is to lock the drums tight with the adjusters prior to bleeding. Upon doing this, if you have a low pedal it almost has to be air rather than drum adjustment/shoe fit, etc. With the shoes locked you'll get a rock-hard and high pedal when bled properly, once you're convinced the air is gone, adjust the shoes normally. Don't forget to check your MC pushrod adjustment, it should be 1mm slack at the rod, I can't believe how many VWs I see with that way out of spec.
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'66 Deluxe Bus
'65 Standard Bus
Build threads:
'66- http://www.leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=2888&sid=54d8dedfb3822f99c7f2ea430cb4e856
'65- http://leakoil.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4263

[zozo]

I’m getting zero bubbles and have bled via the pumping, the one man method, and the MityVac at least a dozen times. I’m getting no bubbles at all, but I still don’t feel like I’m getting the pedal I should have. I adjusted the rears all the way out, etc etc.

How can I measure the pushrod clearance? When I push/pull it manually, there’s a very slight movement and a click that I assume is the rod making contact. Very minimal movement, but I can’t say for certain it’s 1mm.

Thoughts?

(And no, I didn’t bench bleed the MC.)

[Braukuche]