Non Detergent?

[Gil G.]

Hello,
I am getting close to firing my new motor. I've been reading through my gene berg catalog and the late Gene Berg recommended using 20w non-detergent oil. I know this stuff is almost impossible to find. What are the advantages of using non-detergent oil? I'm assuming it helps the rings seat better before switching to conventional detergent. I have a case of 30w non-detergent and I'm wondering if I should use it. Any opinions out there?

[Glenn]

I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 in all my enigne, new or old. It's got plenty of zinc to help with extending bearing life.

Gene's writing on oil are over 20 years old. Oil has changed alot in those 20 years.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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[FASTERFRED]

Gil...Believe the idea, or atleast part of the deal with non detergent for break in is that it doesn't suspend the junk (bits/pieces/carbon), allows it to fall out so to speak, and since it doesn't have the additive package, maybe it's not as slippery?...Which doesn't hold too much credibility as why wouldn't you want it as slippery as you can get with new bearings?.....If you have a full flow filter system, the fall out reason probably doesn't make any difference.....In any case I would never run non in a motor as the permanent oil choice.....The 30 weight is much too heavy for break in....Single weight 10 if it's cold and 20 if it's warm outside, or just 10/30....You need the oil to get to be bearings and other stuff....Even with getting oil pressure before you actually start it up, the lighter weights will get in the new motor's tight clearances better, lubricating and flushing out stuff...Consenses now for break in seems to be, light weight oil of either non or detergent, crank or pump up for oil pressure w/o starting, run it the 20 to 30 minutes for cam break in, readjust valves, drain the oil/change filter, put in a multi 10/30, run it 500 miles, adjust valves and change the whole works again, running the hell out of it during the first 500 and after to seat the rings....First pirority at startup is to get the cam/lifter setup "right"....Running thereafter with a 10/30, 15/40, or a 20/50 detergent...Some swear by the synthetic route....Personnally, I am not paying $6.00 a quart for oil, believe 3000 mile oil changes gets it done.....Am sure you'll get references to past forum comments/suggestions...That's kind of how I see it.... ....The Lizard....
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[Gil G.]

Thanks for your recommendations and feedback guys.

[Eaallred]

Best bet in my opinion (and what I do with my engine) is break it in with an HD diesel oil (like Glenn recommended) and also one bottle of STP oil additive per 1 gallon of oil. The STP stuff has been used for years by the VW guys to keep thier cams and lifters happy and was always a bit skeptical until I watched a top fuel crew changing the oil in thier nitro car getting ready for another pass and dumped in a few bottles of the stuff along with thier oil. Hey, these guys have a LOT riding on thier engine, and if they use it, it's good enough for me! lol
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Eric Allred

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