Trying to work out how to get started...

[abritinthebay]

Ok, so I have my VW splittie - it's in mixed condition but I'm getting the rust/etc fixed up.

Once that is done... how to I go about repainting?

I want to do the whole thing in Masterseries due to it's salt-fighting ability (I'm on the CA coast) so I figure I need to sand down to bare metal, right?

... but how? I don't have a blaster of any kind and there has to be a better way than a simple DA sander like you'd use on wood. Then surely it'll take ages and that will be a problem for the metal before I can paint the Masterseries primer won't it?

After that... I sand the primer down I assume, reapply, smooth, and then apply a top paint coat... right?

[panicman]

You could take it to a couple shops or call around for a quote on sandblasting. Most feedback from folks doing this indicates that its not expensive. And you are right, sanding it to bare metal would take long enough that you're likely to see surface rust start. The other option would be a part by part, staged process, where you deal with one manageable area at a time, and ultimately do the whole job.

[Mike Fisher]

Master Series silver and black is good for the pan & chassis, but not for the interior/exterior which deserves primer/paint/clear. Those flap sanding wheels on a drill are the best way to strip paint at home. 1 section at a time is the best approach to bodywork.
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'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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[Thrasher22]

Yes, unless you're confident you can finish the repairs pretty quickly, you don't want to sandblast the whole body and let it sit bare metal.

Personally my approach has been to strip each panel down one at a time, deal with the rust/repairs, then seal it up with spray can primer to protect the metal while I work on other sections.
The downside to this is that I'll have to strip the temp primer off again when I'm ready for paint, but at that stage I'll likely just take it to a media blaster.

To strip the paint by hand I've found nothing works better than a knotted wire wheel brush on an angle grinder, which you can get for around $10 at any home depot-like store.

Many people also have luck with paint stripper too.

[abritinthebay]

Awesome info guys, thanks.

To clarify - my plan for the MasterSeries on the interior is to just use it as a (high build really) primer. Probably with a sanding stage to get it smoother (though I know it's self leveling).

The black would be for the undercarriage + wheel wells, but yes, not for the interior. Silver would go on everything first as a protective layer. I can always re-prime with a different base for the color coat (plus clear if I don't go with a single stage, which I probably won't). It's for it's protective qualities mainly on the interior.

I may also shoot the interior with LizardSkin ceramic and sound deadener before I do a final coat, but that would just be in the non-visible places (like door interiors and the roof and floor) as it has a subtle texture.

[marklaken]

I wouldn't use use a rust inhibitor product (Masterseries) as a base coat for your entire body. It is a great product for doing repairs to pitted metal that you don't plan to replace and fixing pesky rust areas like floors, wheel wells, undercarraige, bumpers etc. It is self leveling, but not nearly as smooth as a sprayed on primer. It is sandable (unlike rustbullet and POR15), but it doesn't sand as nice as primers (it is really hard paint and hard isn't always good).

If you are sanding down to bare metal over a long time, you can cover your work with cheap enamel rattle can paint to temporary protect the metal from surface rusting (better than the spray can primers, which absorb moisture). You will have to remove that rattle can paint prior to epoxy primer, but it will come of very quickly with a DA sander and some 36 grit paper (which you need to do prior to epoxy primer anyways).

I don't like sandblasting (the sand fills all sorts of non-accessible cavities that are supposed to drain water that you will have difficulty removing (especially the rocker panels and the front nose area).

I've always just suffered through DA'ing the whole body...
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1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[GB2S]

Did a little research on my own about sandblasting.
First, was the cost, I was given a quote of $800.00
Second, there is always the possibility that a panel could be warped.
Third. I was told by a sandblaster, that blasting an older car can open up the metal, make it more porous, which could lead to painting issues.
Fourth. I found here on the Samba a Paint and body person who said he didn't like to sandblast cars because it removes a protective product that is applied at the factory.

I'm just passing along info that I have found for informational purposes

Geoff
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1963 Ragtop

[vaughn bros.]

[abritinthebay]

It sounds like limited part sanding (ie - piece by piece) either by hand (me) or blasting is my best bet.

Masterseries is going to be the primer, no question about that. (see aforementioned salt issues)

[skills@eurocarsplus]

blast it, get it in epoxy the same day and work from there. you will want to kick a puppy if you have to hand strip a whole bus....or any car for that matter!
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[rays-64]

[abritinthebay]

What sort of spray system did you use? I know MS isn't supposed to be thinned more than 10% and isn't exactly recommended for spraying...

[rays-64]

I worked on 1 section of the car at a time. Project car so it sat in the garage. I used a foam roller with great results, no brush or roller marks at all. 2 coats. If I would of used a sprayer (which I should of) I would of probably used at least 1/3 less. But then I would of spent the money on spray gun and water trap instead. Check out their web site.

[Doug C]

Wouldn't stripping down to bare metal then "washing" the surface down with a rust inhibitor (one of the phosphoric acid solution products on the market) be enough to protect from new rust until the car could be epoxy primed, assuming it would be done in a relatively quick time (couple weeks or so)?

[marklaken]

Salt issues are a non-issue with correct automotive primers. Masterseries and other rust inhibitors just use water as their catalyst (rather than a chemical catalyst additive).

Masterseries and the like are very thick paints and dry very hard. Great for a rigid chassis, but not so sure about a flexy car body. I am not a paint engineer, but I'd bet that thin and flexible epoxy primers provide better micro-adhesion and flexural adhesion.

If you are going to use masterseries as the "direct to metal" (DTM) primer, you could easily hand strip and paint (same day) section by section.
_________________
Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO

[rays-64]

[Doug C]

[rays-64]