water leak, drivers side

[jkaput]

Hi everybody,
I'm experiencing a leak on the drivers side near the fuse panel. The van is clean, no rust in the area because it spent most of life in southern
California. However, when it rains, it comes in at a good drop. I noticed it a while when I saw a puddle form under the steering wheel, but couldn't seem to find out where it was coming from. I then noticed it was dripping from the corner (see pics) near the fuse panel.

To remedy this in the short term, I used a high quality clear silicone in the outside bottom corners of the windshield gasket, and as i was doing so I noticed a small amount of rust along the bottom in the middle of the windshield. I siliconed this as well. I also did around the antenna, as the bottom boot of the antenna doesn't actually reach the body. I didn't use a ton, just a small amount.

It didn't work. There is still a steady drip, and the underlayment is soaked (on both sides oddly - it may just be that trapped water under the carpet and the plastic mats on top of the carpet that moved over by capillary action).

Any thoughts? I looked at the gasket inside around the bottom, and there are no obvious signs of water coming in. It looks really dry. I didn't take the dash off of anything, but its got no water coming in that I can see.

This is a weird idea, but could it run in from the top top opening, and find its way over to where i'm seeing it by gravity? Just curious.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Justin

[maco70]

Hi Justin,

I believe there is several thread about this issue.

On my side, when I experienced an issue as yours, the leaking came from the windshield seal. I replaced it and we add scellant all around before replaced it. Then the problem was solved.

I believe the issue can also come from the antenna hole, when the seal is getting old.

Hope it helps.
_________________
Martin from Montréal

1986 Vanagon GL full camper westfalia
(brown/tan interior)

[MarkWard]

Try taping the body seam that runs between the windshield and grill next to the antenna. The factory sealer can dry out. Go easy on the silicone. It’s very difficult to remove when you go to fix the rust.

[djkeev]

Silicone is a product that has a FANTASTIC public relations department!

Over the time silicone has existed they have convinced us that it is the greatest idea since sliced bread!

No matter how poorly it performs, we continue to buy it!

I don't know why we do.
As a sealant in a tube it performs poorly in almost every application you can think if, except fish tanks!

In a home, any, and I mean any, item that needs sealing, there is a far better product for it on the market than silicone.

Automobiles? Same thing, yet people grab it as a miracle product over and over again.

As a window glass to rubber to metal sealant...... it rates about a 2 on a scale of 10.
Plus as mentioned, once applied, the residue is a bear to remove!

But now that you polluted the area with silicone, your only real fix is to pull the glass, take the time to mitigate the silicone and fix it correctly.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[jkaput]

I called it silicone, but in reality its Geocel pro flex. I use the stuff on windows, doors, etc, and its really good for those applications. It will be tough to get it out, but I went really light on it.

I have no idea how to tell if the seals on the windshield are shot, but there is that one spot of obvious rust on the sill. I hit that with a thin layer of sealant. Everywhere I went, I went thin thinking it was a stop gap until I figure out wtf is going on. The floor underlayment is soaked, but it is still in good shape, so I don't think this is a long running condition. You think I should just pull the windshield and throw a new seal at it?

BTW - i've read tons on here about it, I just thought the pics might be able to have someone chime in with 'oh yeah, i've seen that before.' I was also wondering about the pop top seal where the two pieces meet.

Anywho - thanks for the thoughts and the warning about silicone.

[fxr]

If you can see a small spot of rust just under the seal, then I can pretty much guarantee you have a hole through the metal, hidden right underneath the rubber. The internal lip the seal snaps over is made of two panels spot-welded together and once moisture has got underneath the seal, over the years rust will gradually eat away at this join and eventually there'll be a hole right through.

Pull the glass. If it's the original it's probably scratched to buggery anyway, so you might as well replace it as well as the seal after fixing the hole(s). Right now is a good time for such a project.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[heidi85ho]

On a friends 84, oem antennae, we discovered that if not fully extended or fully closed, water would leak down the mast and end up inside.
Worth checking
_________________
85 westy-1.9-standard trans, FAS GenV 2.0

[jkaput]

The glass on the windshield is good/great shape. Hardly pitted at all. Polarized strip up top. I don't know when the PO did it, but it looks good. The seal isn't buggered either, from what I can tell. Just that spot right in the middle of the windshield. Its small too. I figured the sealant would stop the water.

Weird.


How hard is the window seal job? It looks pretty straight forward.

[weekendr]

I had a leak in that exact spot. Was coming in around windshield wiper.
_________________
Early 1986 Wolfsburg Westy Weekender 2WD GL manual with KEP EJ22

[zerotofifty]

Silicone RTV can release acetic acid when it cures, thus causing accelerated rust. A non acidic sealer should be used. Urethane sealer is good. but for best repair, remove the seal, clean up the body metal, protect from rust, use new seal, and reinstall with a proper sealant if need be.