stripped case at oil pressure switch

[Brintonian]

I just loaded up my 76 type 4 for it's maiden voyage across the country and I'd noticed some oil around the oil pressure switch. I started to tighten it down gently and it seemed really loose. It kept twisting so I backed it out and the case threads came out with it.

So I'd like to know what I need to do to tap it... Does the engine have to come out for this? Should I tap it for the next larger fitting and run a tube to the switch? I'm panicking. If anyone has any info I will be eternally grateful!!!

Thank you thank you thank you in advance!

Beej

[ccpalmer]

You should be able to tap the next largest non-metric size (I think 1/4" NPT?), then put a nipple into the case, then a coupler from the nipple to the sender unit - the threads should go in well enough with teflon tape.

After you tap the threads crank the engine a few times (with the coil wire off) and oil will push out any shavings that get in. I've also heard of putting grease on the tap to catch most of the shavings.
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'71 Westy

[busdaddy]

Hooooboy...... you've stepped in a big steaming pile with this one

Engine disassembly is the ideal fix but there are work arounds if you are super careful.
If you can remove the fan shroud and oil cooler you can wash out any chips that may fall down the hole.
Or the panic ghetto fix works if you just don't have the time:
The first thing you'll have to do is fill the hole with grease, from there you have to decide what threads you want in there, they are (were) 10X1.0mm but most extensions for aftermarket pressure gauge senders are 1/8" NPT. There's a chance the tapered NPT tap can make threads in the existing hole slightly deeper but the guaranteed first shot fix would be to go to the bigger 1/4 NPT and install an adaptor back down to 1/8 or 10mm if you aren't going with a pressure gauge (a good upgrade though).
Now that the tapping is done you have to get that chip laden grease out of there, a small hose attached to a shop vac or a syringe or turkey baster should do it, a bit of grease residue left behind won't hurt anything but the chips are not good.
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[Brintonian]

Genius . Thanks guys I'll let you know how it goes. I owe you one!!!!

Beej

[ccpalmer]

Oh - I didn't see at first that it was a T4...

Busdaddy of course has it right that the best fix is to disassemble the engine...

But I did the quick fix to my 1600dp and it worked fine - it was a 1/8"NPT I used and is pretty much the same size as 10X1.0mm...
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'71 Westy

[Brintonian]

I tapped with a 1/8" and installed my VDO sender which I hadn't gotten around to yet. The grease worked perfectly. I made a little rig with some 1/4" tube to suck it back up with my shop vac and then combed through the residual with a cue tip. So far no leaks!

Thanks again guys!!!

[ncstagger]

So I installed the first non-stock item on my engine today and of course it ended in disaster.

I removed my stock oil pressure sender and installed a new 10mm dual pole VDO sender. In the process, I overtightened and stripped the case, the threads came out when I removed the new sender.

What's the options here? I'd like to use the VDO sender so I'll need the threads back to 10mm. Do I need to drill and tap a size larger and then install a 10mm insert? If so, what size drill and tap?

Or can I use a 1/8" tap to cut new threads and hope the 10mm sender goes in and seals with a little teflon? Sounds sketchy. Maybe an adapter?

Open to advice. Thanks.

Its a Type I engine and its out of the bus but fully assembled.
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71 Westy Tintop - 1600 DP 34PICT3/009 - Pastel White

Resto thread here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=549162

"Take your most realistic time frame and dollar amount.. then add half of that amount. When you get that total... double it. Only then will you be in the ballpark." - sofaking

[busdaddy]

Fill the hole with grease and drill/retap larger so you can use a reducer fitting (drill size charts for various taps are everywhere online), 1/8"NPT is so close to 10mmX1.0mm that you won't gain anything by retapping to that size. I think you'll have to go up to 1/4" NPT and find a suitable reducer/adaptor.
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[kreemoweet]

Thread inserts work pretty well. Timeserts are well-regarded for fixing stripped threads.
Lots of other brands too. Timesert supposedly has a M10x1.0x8mm insert that would
probably work well.

1/8 NPT should NEVER be mixed with M10x1.0 unless you don't care about borking the threads.
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[busdaddy]

A full solid insert could work with enough sealer but I wouldn't even attempt getting a coiled thread repair like a Helicoil to seal against oil pressure.
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[ncstagger]

I wouldn't use a Helicoil, heard too many negative reports.

aircooled.net has a loaner 1/8 npt timesert kit. I could do that and use this adapter to get back to 10mm,
http://pitstopusa.com/i-5064685-auto-meter-metric-adapter-1-8-npt-to-10mm-x-1.html.

Sucks to have to take half the parts off the engine again to do this but I dont see an option thats both easy and good.
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71 Westy Tintop - 1600 DP 34PICT3/009 - Pastel White

Resto thread here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=549162

"Take your most realistic time frame and dollar amount.. then add half of that amount. When you get that total... double it. Only then will you be in the ballpark." - sofaking

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

You might be able to tap it to a straight thread, like 7/16" and then use an adapter to go to 10x1 or whatever you need. I would not screw a heavy dual sender into the stock location even if everything where A-1. Mount the sender elsewhere and use a section of hydraulic hose to connect it.

[SGKent]

[Danwvw]

I would try JB Weld and avoid the metal shavings until you rebuild. You will need to clean it up good though. Use paint thiner followed by Carburetor Cleaner in spray can or even brake cleaner. Give it a good 24 hours to set. JB weld is a 5 minute epoxy but they also make a 4 hour version that is stronger but should dry longer. It is so strong the 5 minute would be fine if you can get all the oil out of the joint you make.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[Desertbusman]

Nothing at all wrong with the VooDoo dual post sender in the stock location on a t-1.
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71 Superbug
71 Westy

[Wildthings]

[ncstagger]

[ncstagger]

[Danwvw]

JB weld is just epoxy but I have used it for things like VW type 1 Dowel Pin hole repair and on water cooled engines plastic radiators to hold temperature sensor in where it was stripped out. Have been thinking of using it around my main bearings on my next engine.
I suppose there is a chance you would loose sensor ground with the VW Type 1,2,3,4 applications but if part of the old metal thread is still there then you will likely have a ground. Just have to try it. I would use a lot and build it up quite a bit even going back and re-applying more after the first batch hardens. http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!