Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal

Summers420us · Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:04 pm Post subject:

They are VERY proud of their hardware!

syncrodoka · Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:07 pm Post subject:

Turk.380 · Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject:

chimivee · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:11 am Post subject:

I'm in the middle of this job, and I can't get the old flange seals out. I tried inserting a screw as mentioned by the OP, but the screw simply tore out as I pried. Found a "seal puller" at Sears, like this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I gave it a go, but I'm not sure it's meant for this odd shaped seal (or maybe I'm using it wrong Embarassed

).

Any other ideas on getting these seals things out?. Today was a frustrating Vanagaon day. Sad

_________________
-James
86 Syncro Westy, etc

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:38 am Post subject:

Where he shows the screw going in is just a rubber lip with a spring. Try on the part of the seal with the recessed blocks in it, that part of the seal has a metal backing.
The seal puller you bought usually works well but maybe not in this situation. Are you laying it flat against the shaft and wedging it under the seal?

presslab · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 7:02 am Post subject:

deprivation · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:33 am Post subject:

?Waldo? · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:49 am Post subject:

Be sure to check that the atmospheric bleed in the top front of the trans is not blocked before starting on this job. If it is plugged (quite common) then it will make brand new seals leak. And if it is plugged and your seals are leaking, unplugging it will often cure the leaking without needing to change the seals.

syncrodoka · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:02 am Post subject:

Syncros rarely have that problem because the vent line is plumbed over the gas tank not open right over the nosecone like 2wd vans

Leebo · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:32 am Post subject:

OK, so I had some tranny fluid leaking out of my boot (driver/tranny joint). I read some previous posts and thought that maybe it was just my drive flange cap that had failed and that by replacing that piece it would be all good.

So, I removed the axle bolts and the drive flange cap fell to the floor. It looks to be fine after a cleaning. So, do I simply place this back on and bolt the axle back to the tranny and all is good? After reading this post I'm wondering if it may be my drive flange seals? Does the cap "click" or "snap' in? For mine, it just seems to kind of lay there.

Also, since I have been losing the tranny fluid, I'll need to top it off. I have searched and it appears the drain plug is located on the bottom towards the engine. Where the heck is the fill plug? I thought I read it was on the driver's side about half way up?

Thanks!!
_________________
'84 Westy
1.9L w/'89 tranny

chimivee · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:14 pm Post subject:

chimivee · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:20 pm Post subject:

chimivee · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:39 pm Post subject:

presslab · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 1:53 pm Post subject:

Leebo · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 4:52 pm Post subject:

OK, so I figured out that I had the flange cap on backwards (duh!). After I flipped it around I used the back of a screwdriver to "pop" it back in. Now I'm wondering if that will solve my tranny oil leaking in the boot or do I need to replace the seal, too? I guess I'll drive around the block and see if it still leaks or not.
_________________
'84 Westy
1.9L w/'89 tranny

chimivee · Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 11:15 pm Post subject:

So, turns out, being dumb isn't so bad... when you're internet friends are SMART. Very Happy

Thanks all for the help. Got it done.

I figured I'd start with Presslab's suggestion and tried the seal puller again. I had to pryl REALLY REALLY hard, pulling from a couple points along the seal perimeter before it came out.

Getting it all back together took a little effort too. The passenger side flange took probably 200 blows with a block/mallot to seat it fully. Following tips here, I used a honkin' socket (1.25") to hammer against and press the spring washer to seat the clip. BTW, removing the flange was by no means easy either - didn't come close to sliding off. I rigged a FLAPS loaner puller tool to work and really cranked on the thing to get it off.

Anyway, thanks again all! I hope others have a little easier time with this one than me.
_________________
-James
86 Syncro Westy, etc

IdahoDoug · Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 7:53 pm Post subject:

Wow, you got lucky with those. I also had to use a puller to get both flanges off. The seals were unbelievable as well - a fight to the end. I have a seal puller I've used for 20 years and perhaps a hundred seals. Broke it and had not budged the first seal. Went to NAPA and got a top shelf one and still had to use a cheater bar.

A tip on putting them back in. The seal has ribbed edges that contact the seating area. For some reason, these don't yield to hammer blows well - almost as if they flex in, then rebound back out with little actual progress. So after I had them started and progress stopped with quite a bit to go, I used a long piece of wood for leverage and pried them in the rest of the way using a large socket to push against. It was surprisingly little effort to push it home though minutes before it had not budged with a heavy plastic and brass hammer. I think it's those ribs.

The flanges needed to be pounded on with the brass hammer. Just work around the flange edge after it's started on the splines.

DougM
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

joseph928 · Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:20 am Post subject: drive flange

Thanks guys, as always you come to the rescue , mine started to leak last week, had know idea how to do this. Getting ready to order parts monday . Now I know what I'm getting myself into! Very Happy

_________________
1987 syncro westy tin top sun roof , GW2.3, rear locker, decoupler, Gary Lee tire rack & winch mount, lift, south african grill, big brakes , rhein alloy ,15 BFG AT, Fiamma 10 foot awning ,140 watt rear 85 watt front solar , mppt, truckfridge, automatic fire extinguishing system, tencent oil cooler, And a RMW SS exhaust! - 1971 bug convertible 1776 engine- 2010 Subaru turbo - 1993 Toyota 4x4 truck - 1999 Harley 95 CI, big bore, Andrews cams . Also 80-84- vans. Stock 65 sunroof bug.

?Waldo? · Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:46 am Post subject:

Tap a 12 pt socket over the heads and they come right out without drama.


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Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal
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