Replacing manual transmission drive flange oil seal

[DanHoug]

an $8 Harbor Freight seal puller works fine for this.... those double-beaked T handled things. or splurge and get the Lisle brand for $12.
_________________
-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
www.thefixitworkshop.com

[Wildthings]

Punch mark the adjusting nut so you can get it back right where it started, and then unscrew the nut and remove it. This way you can knock the seal out from the back side.

When using the screw method, you want to drill the hole(s) right next to the outer edge of the seal, just so the screw goes through the metal part of the seal but doesn't score the recess for the seal up. Always use a sharp punch to center the hole.

[T3messie]

Heat it before prying

[Claydogh]

This is why I posted this, a word of warning of sorts.

I think it should be okay, it looks like it missed anything vital. I will clean up any burrs and whatnot. Just kinda mad xD

Didnt scratch the seal surface at all though haha

[MarkWard]

While not ideal, it’s likely ok. There is no way to replace that bearing without disassembly. To anyone who comes across this thread, you won’t find this method in the factory manual and is in my experience unwise. Spend the few dollars and buy a universal seal puller.

[Claydogh]

I did the “drill hole and screw” trick on my seal today… I don’t recommend it. The seal was in there so good my side hammer, prying, nothing would get it out. Took 7 screws prying to get it out.

I was as careful as I could be, but one of the times the drill caught and pulled it all the way in. I knew I screwed up but its tight under there. Got the seal out.

I think its… fine. But obviously im bummed. It hit the shielding on the bearing but didnt go all the way through. Everything spins nice with no noises. Still pretty mad about it though.

This is the vanagon life though I guess.

[qbini]

Thanks to all you who contributed to this thread!

The leaks started right after a transaxle fluid flush and fill. I had heard that sometimes, if it's been a while, draining and refilling can cause the seals to leak.

I was able to complete the seal replacement without too much trouble. It was a mess down there - the plastic flange covers were completely trashed. I used both the seal puller and screw methods to get the seals out. Once side popped right out with the seal puller and the other required the screw method. Both my flanges pulled off rather easily so i didn't need a puller - they also went back on easy with just a tap to seat them. I did run into a problem with 2 of the CV joint bolts(allen keyed) - ended up using a method i found on another VW forum. I tried the triple square and screw extractors but had a hard time getting them to seat properly to work. I ended up using a pair of vicegrips to grab the head of the bolt, then used another pliers to further tighten the vicegrips screw. Once it broke loose the bolt backed right out. I replace all the CV joint bolts with triple squares from T3 Technique. I also ran into an issue with my torque wrench; it is too long to be able to get under there. I ended up buying a shorter torque wrench and it worked great. I also made sure the trans air hole was clear to make sure it didn't blow out the new seals. I did this in my driveway which created it's own challenges, but wasn't as bad as i imagined. Went camping this weekend and so far no leaks.

What a mess!

The old parts - the plastic cover was completely trashed.

New seal installed.

Seal cover, flange, washer and circclip re-installed.

Cap installed with a touch of RTV - the same as i found it.

Tight squeeze; this side was a little cramped to exhaust piping.

Make sure you have the right ring pliers with the 90 degree heads to remove/install the circ clip.

I had to buy a shorter torque wrench to fit in the tight space under the van since i didn't have a lift.

[qbini]

[crazyvwvanman]

That spring is part of the old seal. It fits inside it and helps hold the seal lip tight against the turning shaft.

Mark

[qbini]

My transaxle leak suddenly got worse after the last drain and refill. So, I am working on getting this done on my 87 camper 4 spd manual. So far, it has gone pretty well - a few stubborn bolts and a feisty flange seal. Thanks to all those who have provided instructions and tips - really helpful.

Now i'm ready to start re-installation... but this spring ring fell out of the assembly after the seal was removed. Does anyone know what this is? It is not rubber! it is a spring ring; I can stretch it and it springs back.

Thanks!
Kevin

[syncroserge]

You can just tilt the van sideways with ramps or wood boards. You don't need that much, 2 to 4"
and no gear oil should come out.

As a bonus you get a bit more room to work..

[jvice]

[DCzilla]

[dobryan]

[Wildthings]

A tacky sealant will help keep the cap from popping out, silicone not so much.

[DCzilla]

I was able to finish today. Overall take aways are get a gear puller, circlip pliers, and make sure surface is smooth before trying to seat the seal. Unfortunately I was also doing coolant work today and when I turned the van over to add more fluid it started spraying gas from the rail. Looks like I need to replace those lines too.

[dobryan]

[riceye]

I had to make a repair involving the plastic caps in the transaxle hubs when I was 1500 miles from home. This transmission is a GoWesty rebuild from back in 2004 or 2005 with about 100,000 miles. I had gear lube weeping though one inner CV, leaving a drip or two when parked.

I pulled the inner ends of the axles, cleaned, examined the CV's (they were ok - only the passenger side was actually leaking) and packed full of grease (Caterpillar Desert Gold was available and came very highly recommended). I removed the old caps from the hubs, which was surprisingly easy. There was no residue of RTV inside of the hub. I installed the new caps that I was fortunate to find locally (Auto Stop on E Main St in Bozeman, MT. Hats off to them!) and applied a good schmear of RTV to each hub to retain the plugs.

After the RTV had time to cure I reinstalled the axles. I also took the time to locate and clear out the breather hole at the front of the transaxle. It appears as just a little hole, and if plugged up can generate positive pressure on the case from heat of operation or altitude changes which may, in turn, push the hub plug out of the hub. The hole was full of fine dust and dirt, and I'm pretty sure that it was the cause of the cap dislodging. I used a small wire tie and a vacuum nozzle to clean out, followed by inserting a small rubber hose to draw/blow by mouth to be sure it was clear. Somewhat humbling...

The arrow points to the breather hole in this photo.

All was well for the trip back home to Wisconsin. I guess the point of my reply is to suggest that the breather hole be checked for obstruction whenever a leak is encountered. It's quite often overlooked, and can create an issue.
_________________
'87 Westy Weekender - daily driver on salt-free roads

There's gonna be some changes made.

“I find that things usually go well right up until the moment they don't.” - Ahwahnee

"Quality isn't method. It's the goal toward which the method is aimed." - Socrates, later quoted by R.M. Pirsig

[DCzilla]

[dobryan]

Take some RTV and smear it around the plastic cap. They are known to leak or fall out.

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

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