Trans Drive Flange Removal

[THall]

The Bentley manual describes removing the flange by using pry bars, but I've seen threads on here that say using a puller tool is necessary.

I suspect either would work, but I'm hoping you guys could provide some insight on what works well, tips, tricks, etc.

The transmission in my case is an 091.

Thanks
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'78 Westy - 2.0 FI

[lil-jinx]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

from tech tips sticky
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[Globedog12]

There was a pretty good pictorial on German supply. I think it shows using a puller. When I did mine I was pretty lucky and flanges came off pretty easily with a couple screwdrivers prying behind. Definitely get the right tool for removing the retaining clips. For me anyway that was the hardest part of the job.
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1976 VW Type 2 Original fuel injection

[timvw7476]

The flanges on a 091 will not be tight, the circlip is the thing you need to treat nicely so you do not deform it & prevent it from going on back nice n' tight.
(if you DO deform it, there's a chance it pops off under the blue cap, and then you have an axle spinning free. NO MOVEMENT.) guess how I know ?) : l
The later transaxles do require extra force to seat & release the flanges, the FWD set ups. A Type I engine case oil pump puller C brace serves as a nice 'puller' to get the flange drawn down far enough to use install/remove without drama, but those are all slightly newer FWD transaxles.
And you have to find just the right bolt length/washer stack to do it, other than that C- portion from the Type I oil pump tool.

[airschooled]

I use a 6" piece of flat steel and a long bolt.

Lay it directly across the flange/CV and drill two holes so you can slip two CV bolts through it easily and thread them into the flange. Drill a third hole between the two, maybe a little larger. Then you can use CV bolts to hold the "tool" in place, then insert the long bolt (head to the differential) with a nut threaded on below the tool as well. Loosening the nut towards the tool will push the bolt down and pull the flange off easily. You may need a second wrench to keep the bolt head from turning.

The axle has M8 or M10 threads in it, which you can use in this setup as well, I just never remember to have the correct bolt on hand for that…

Robbie
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One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:

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[lil-jinx]

I wonder could you just thread a couple of bolts into the flange and put a metal block under the flange so the bolts bottom on the metal,as the bolts get turned in it will want to push the flange out,you may have to take care not to damage the cover.
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy sold dec 2024

1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[airschooled]

[germansupplyscott]

[SGKent]

[THall]

Thanks all, appreciate it.
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'78 Westy - 2.0 FI