2.1 Crankcase corrosion/build up around bellhouse mating surface

[rustyCamper]

I picked up a 2.1L engine to do an engine rebuild/ learn how to wrench on my van while keeping my current running motor in the van intact during the process.

The engine I got was said to be running when pulled to do an engine swap. I think my rookie stripes are showing because as I am looking to get started on my work I have noticed lots of corrosion and buildup on the matting surface for the bell housing. One especially concerning item is the lip circled in red looks o be severely degraded.

I am wondering does this mean I should scrap this engine and ditch the rebuild effort, or is this something a little elbow grease can take care of and the lip of the mating halves is not critical?

Thank you for your advice.

[dhaavers]

Not like when new, but not as bad as many so I vote for “not critical”.

Clean up the whole area & exposed studs (including threads)…then depending on your
OCD level, treat with Fluid Film or other corrosion inhibitor before reinstall.

Critical point is a liberal coating of anti seize on all stud threads & hardware, or in the
future you may end up with bellhousing completely galled in place (ask me how I know)…

- Dave
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86 White Wolfsburg Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"
<EDITED TO PROTECT INNOCENT PIXELS>

[dobryan]

This is also the surface that is the current path for the neg side of the elec system to the starter. This is one reason why it is good to ground the starter directly to the body frame.
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Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2010 Subaru EJ25 (Vanaru) and Peloquin TBD

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[Abscate]

In sunny CA wire brush that , and forget about it until 2065.
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[4Gears4Tires]

That's totally fine.

If you don't have a power washer, get one. Be careful with the power washer around rubber seals though. Blast the ever loving crap out of all metal surfaces.

Scrub with metal (brass or steel) brushes. Soak with purple power. Blast with Brakekleen.

I have a stack of several thousand razor blades and I use them as disposable cleaning tools. I like to grab one, scrape scrape scrape scrape, then it's trash. They're great because they're steel so they're much harder than the engine case and they are very very flat.

I like wire wheels on drills for corroded aluminum or magnesium parts. Just be careful not sit there grinding for too long and make sure you wear eye protection. They will fling metal wires in all directions.

You have a lot of cleaning ahead of you. Don't get discouraged now.

Don't forget to clean your tools while you clean the engine.
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'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition

[Wildthings]

That engine probably saw service in the road salt country of New York or other north eastern state. As others have mentioned it is probably fine, but if it were me I would keep an eye open for a cleaner case.

[DanHoug]

[rustyCamper]

Thank you all for the helpful input!! The van spent some of its life in Canada so I guess the corrosion buildup checks out, it will definately not be seeing the same conditions here in CA. You have brought to my attention the ground problem so I will defiantly ground my starter directly with the 4ga wire as instructed. One thing I was curious about that, is it really necessary to remove the ground strap from the transmission? I would think that would allow for a better ground overall since there is more material for the electrons to go. If there is no electrical potential between the starter and the trans then my understanding is that no current should be flowing.

Regarding cleaning the aluminum up, is it okay to take a wire brush to it? I am a little worried about removing material, but the crud is pretty caked on there and not surrendering to scotch bright easily

[DanHoug]

you can clean that corrosion with abrasive methods. my favorite is a genuine vintage Boy Scout knife where the blade is perfectly shaped for scraping. if you aren't painting the case, slather that surface with anti-seize because at some point, someone will be taking it apart again. mebbe you.

removing the ground strap from the front of the transmission keeps current from flowing thru the mainshaft and bearings, which can cause bearing damage. far better to have the ground cable right at the starter and as you've seen, the series of corroded connections are eliminated.
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-dan
60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

'87 Westy & '89 Westy both 2.1 4spd

Past projects can be found at--
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