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Quart low after 200mi !?!?!?!
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fazool666
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:07 am    Post subject: Quart low after 200mi !?!?!?! Reply with quote

I just recently installed a new 1776 in my beetle and have put apx. 1200 miles so far on the engine. I changed the oil at 500mi after break-in and have no visible leaks anywhere and do not seem to be burning any oil either. I decided to take the car on a road trip this past weekend and when I reached my destination, I checked the oil and noticed it was apx. 1 qt low!?!? I did a visual inspection and the entire engine is dry with no visible leaks except for the breather vent tube that runs through my tin was wet with a little oil (which I would assume would be normal). Anyway, added a quart and on the return trip found I was a quart low again when I got home. I looked around again and nothing except the vent tube was wet again. Now is it possible to blow a quart every 200mi out of the vent? Does this seem excessive to anyone and if this is the problem, is there any better breather system that allows the oil to return to the crankcase automatically?

This is currently what is on the engine with a vent tube - http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=244

Thanks!
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junior55
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would consider a piped-type vent box mounted up towards the top of the engine. I have a bugpack vent box and run the oil-filler pipe and my two vented valve covers into it. I like it.

General rule of thumb is that going beyond stock cc's creates additional turbulence and some venting problems, so you very well might be spraying out that amount of oil over a 200 mile trip.

You wanna hope this is it..
Given the other oil loss possibilities, this one would be the easiest fix.
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fazool666
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea I hope this is the issue as well. Thanks for the info!
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fazool666
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody using one of these? http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=241

Would this be better than what I have now?
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junior55
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could KEEP the filler that you have and go with the bugpac remote box like I have.
I haven't used the one that you have shown but many of my friends do.
Get a box of some sort... don't just run a tube.
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Jengel451
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds a bit excessive. Your rings might not have fully bedded in, if which case, you could be burning a bit, as well as losing via blow by/vent tube.

check your compression as a sanity check. What oil did you use for break in and what are you running now?
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fazool666
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Motor was built by CPR / Steelbuggin and had 20W 50 for the break in. At 500mi changed to syn 0w 30. I was also thinking the same thing that it may not have broken in 100% yet. I plan on doing a comp. test as well just for piece of mind.

Last edited by fazool666 on Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jengel451
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fazool666 wrote:
Motor was built by CPR / Steelbuggin and had 20W 50 for the break in. At 500mi changed to syn 10w 30. I was also thinking the same thing that it may not have broken in 100% yet. I plan on doing a comp. test as well just for piece of mind.


I would call them to be sure. But personally, I would not run synth that fast. I had to run dino, non detergent for almost 1000 miles before my rings started to really seat. 20/50 might be overkill as well.

Take a look at the oil sticky.
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fazool666
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may be right and I was iffy on putting syn that soon as well but figured i'd give it a shot. Like I said i'm gonna check comp and may even change out to reg oil for the time being until it seats further. What do you recommend for oil during break in?
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fazool666 wrote:
You may be right and I was iffy on putting syn that soon as well but figured i'd give it a shot. Like I said i'm gonna check comp and may even change out to reg oil for the time being until it seats further. What do you recommend for oil during break in?


I use non-detergent 30w, with Comp Cams break in additive. Others have thier own methods. But that is what has worked for me.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jengel451 wrote:
fazool666 wrote:
Motor was built by CPR / Steelbuggin and had 20W 50 for the break in. At 500mi changed to syn 10w 30. I was also thinking the same thing that it may not have broken in 100% yet. I plan on doing a comp. test as well just for piece of mind.


I would call them to be sure. But personally, I would not run synth that fast. I had to run dino, non detergent for almost 1000 miles before my rings started to really seat. 20/50 might be overkill as well.

Take a look at the oil sticky.


That was too fast to switch to synthetic.....it's great stuff but can prevent engines from properly breaking in.

Call Chico and do what he says.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just spoke to Chico and he said the same thing - oops! I will change out the oil tomorrow and let it go apx. 2000 mi before putting syn. Thanks for everyones input!
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fazool666 wrote:
Just spoke to Chico and he said the same thing - oops! I will change out the oil tomorrow and let it go apx. 2000 mi before putting syn. Thanks for everyones input!


Did he say anything about rings possibly have not broken in?

You may want to run it hard and get it hot to help them seat properly.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He said rings are still in the process of breaking in and within 1500-2000mi it should not burn oil and thats when to start running syn. I was under the assumption that the rings were seated with the initial break-in when he ran the engine on the dyno according to an email he previously sent but didn't realize they would still need that much of a break-in
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could you let us know if your consumption goes down after a few more
thousand miles?

Maybe I have been lucky with the engines that I have run, but I
breezed into normal service of my engines without any noticable
oil consumption from day one on.. go figure.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll definitely keep you updated - later today I'm gonna change out the oil and take it from there. I think it's the combo of both lack of a breather box at hwy speeds and that the rings are not 100% broken in as well BUT i'm still going to do a comp test for the hell of it.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might consider doing periodic leakdown tests to see when the rings have seated. New rings that haven't been run at all will leak like crazy.

My 1776 was reading around 50% leakage on each cylinder before first fire. That came down to less than 5% after the first tank of gas (~200 miles).

Max
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

running 20-50 on a new engine is stupid! I don't know if the engine has the thermostat/flaps, but if these are missing it can prevent the rings from properly breaking in, seen it 100x.

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fazool666
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought so at first as well but figured the builder knows what he is doing!?!?! The question now is what do you recommend I put in when I change the oil today? Should I use straight 30 with comp additive like Jengel says? That sounds normal but I am in the Northeast where it's beginning to get cold.

Thanks for everyone's input Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

run 0-20 or 0-30.

Does it have a thermostat and flaps? If not, get them on there.

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