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2 clutch cables within 300 miles
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:16 pm    Post subject: 2 clutch cables within 300 miles Reply with quote

Hello, when i bought my buggy I was told it was in need of a clutch cable, I went to remove it and found that the set screw was tightened down and the cable was still pulling through, saddle clamped it down and was off,it broke darn near immediately, I bought a $6.00 VWcable cut it to length and managed somehow to feed it through the tunnel, set screw,saddle clamp and were off!! 1.5 tanks of fuel and it broke 3 hours ago. Does any have any advice on a better cable mfg? or setup outside the tunnel.Also has anyone modified the pedal assy to seperate the clutch and brake pedal? I was looking into aftermarket pedals but I do not understand enough about VW's yet to make a good choice! Any help would be great cuz the snow's flying and I want some more seat time in her! Thanks
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is the cable "breaking", near the pedal, near the trans or somewhere in between?
There is nothing wrong with the VW setup, it has performed well on millions of cars.
My clutch cable has 20,000 troublefree miles on it so far.
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It breaks right before the set screw, like the cable is wearing through.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

67fj40inCo wrote:
It breaks right before the set screw, like the cable is wearing through.


If its breaking at a set screw then it sounds like you're using an aftermarket cable shortening end piece. That's the problem with those.

Read the thread about pre-shortened cables.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=332831
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut the cable to length after running through tunnel. Iused a saddle clamp just after the set screw.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

67fj40inCo wrote:
I cut the cable to length after running through tunnel. Iused a saddle clamp just after the set screw.


When you say "set screw" I'm thinking now that you don't mean a very small headless grub screw that threads into the side of a fitting to keep it from rotating.

I'm thinking now that you mean the threaded end that is swaged onto the end of the cable, that the square shaped wingnut threads onto. Is that correct?

Is your pre-load tube correctly shimmed?
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post a picture of your setup?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We simply loop the cable and use two clamps to lock the cable at correct length... We do not cut cable or use and other shortening kit parts....

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I believe this is what you are refering to as a saddle clamp?

Dale
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perrib
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do the same as Dale M except with 4 clamps. Just being cautious. I did have one break from stress. The first cable and hook lasted 19 years the next was 6 months before the new hook wore about 50% and the cable wore through the hook. Quality has been hit or miss for a long time.
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perrib wrote:
I do the same as Dale M except with 4 clamps. Just being cautious. I did have one break from stress. The first cable and hook lasted 19 years the next was 6 months before the new hook wore about 50% and the cable wore through the hook. Quality has been hit or miss for a long time.


I don't think Dale uses any hook. I think he just shortens up the cable with a loop held by the clamps.
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perrib
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He must be good pulling the clutch cable without a clutch hook. Razz
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BL3Manx
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I'm with you now, the hook on the pedal. They sell thicker hooks now that don't wear out and don't wear through the cable fitting.
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BL3Manx wrote:
OK I'm with you now, the hook on the pedal. They sell thicker hooks now that don't wear out and don't wear through the cable fitting.
On my pedal assy, the PO had the hook break ,so it has a cyl. held with a bolt and the cable goes through the hole in the cyl. and the,yes,headless set screw is in theory supposed to keep the cable in place, and then the above pic of the saddle clamp is used for added tension to keep the cable from slipping when pedal is depressed. I will be ordering the cable which locash has. As far as the shim question,I am not sure if it is or not, my limited experience led me to fight with the cable to get in the tunnel and attached to the pedal depress the clutch so it engaged/disengaded smoothly and went for a drive.
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lostinbaja
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would order and install a replacement clutch cable hook for the pedal assembly before you install another clutch cable.
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If it's being towed, it must be a trailer!
"Vee Grow Too Soon Oldt Und Too Late Schmardt"
RIP Morgan

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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, yeah I was just cleaning up the Pedal Assy and looking at the cable I am going to order i'd rather go back to what it is supposed to be than further the jerry rigging! Is there any measuremnts like Hole diameter prior to ordering, and where would i go to order this piece?
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

67fj40inCo wrote:
Thanks, yeah I was just cleaning up the Pedal Assy and looking at the cable I am going to order i'd rather go back to what it is supposed to be than further the jerry rigging! Is there any measuremnts like Hole diameter prior to ordering, and where would i go to order this piece?
Is that really a pin holding the clutch pedal to the hook shaft?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the shaft and "hook"...

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC-113-721-305-A

Just be sure you get proper one for "year" of pedal assembly...

All that locks the pedal to the shaft is a steel "interference fit" pin... You drive old one out with punch and drive it back in into new shaft...

Use a stock length clutch cable and use plastic electrical tie or some string to keep factory "hook" loop on cable on clutch shaft hook... Almost anything "soft" will do so it will self destruct in a few pedal presses... This aids re installing pedal assembly in tunnel...

Loop cable at back of car and use at least two clamps... Be sure loop is near clutch arm so it does not bind up on bracket for bowden tube when depressing clutch...

Set "loop" so you can get wingnut on threaded stub on cable end and have proper clutch adjustment...

It may take some fiddling around to get it right. but once its "set" you should be good to go..... Main thing you do not want to do is loose loop off hook at pedal end once pedal assembly is bolted to tunnel...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...


Last edited by Dale M. on Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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67fj40inCo
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the link and the install info!!! Last time it kicked my ass
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