Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Whats the name of these type connectors?
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
NCdad
Samba Member


Joined: August 28, 2008
Posts: 1535
Location: South Carolina
NCdad is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:48 pm    Post subject: Whats the name of these type connectors? Reply with quote

i have to replace a few of these. what do you ask for?

any special tool needed for attaching them?


Thanks!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
ROBERT
My VWs & Projects - | - German Invasion VW Show - Sept 7, 2024 Shelby, NC
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Facebook Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
theadmiral1000
Samba Member


Joined: September 27, 2007
Posts: 251
Location: Bothell, WA (near Seattle)
theadmiral1000 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are called spade connectors, available at the hardware store, etc.

There's different ways to attach them, crimp/solder/etc depending on what kind of spade connector you get. I usually just use what type I have on hand, but I'll let other people comment on their preferred method of attaching the connectors to the wire.
_________________
Zach S.
71 Ghia
75 R75/6
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
fastinradford
Samba Member


Joined: June 08, 2008
Posts: 2895
Location: Athens Ohio
fastinradford is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also called male/female connectors. Yeah, like ^he^ said. You can even pick em up at wal mart, but careful, there ARE different sizes, but 95% on a bug are the same.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
jamesdagg
Samba Member


Joined: August 18, 2007
Posts: 3364
Location: B.C.Canada
jamesdagg is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The new ones are aluminum and crap. The crimping often does not hold so you should solder.

However some electronics stores and the following website sell the original which are brass and far better. They don't simply crimp, they roll the edges inward. The special tool is quite expensive but I found one at Circuit City (formerly Radio Shack) for $20 that works fine but is not ratcheted.

You need to clean up the ones you don't replace. You need electrical spray cleaner, fine sandpaper, emery boards, fiberglass pencil etc.

Spade connectors> These have the locking tabs for the T connectors.

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/search.php?substring=terminals

jim
_________________
'72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
kme_eone
Banned


Joined: November 24, 2005
Posts: 308
Location: Anchorage, AK
kme_eone is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the tme to solder the connectors worth it in the long run.
_________________
Chris Blankenship
South Wind parts and service
907-276-3397
Anchorage, AK
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
ashman40
Samba Member


Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 16364
Location: North Florida, USA
ashman40 is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I normally see them advertised as 0.25" spade connectors (male or female).

As Jim mentioned the aluminum ones (I actually thought they were made from tin but aluminum makes sense) are more common in the states with their yellow/blue/red insulated skirts that you crush to hold the wire in place.

The type in the pic are sometimes referred to as "uninsulated F-type spade connectors". You crimp them in two spots... One roll crimp holds the wire while the other roll crimp holds the insulation. Because there are two crimps they stay on much better.

Funny thing... here in Japan the F-type are more common in the parts stores. They usually come with a silicone insulation sleeve that slides over them.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
66foot Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: November 19, 2006
Posts: 398
Location: Pacific Grove, California
66foot is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are also called non-insulated open barrel terminals.

The preferred tool is one that will handle non-insulated open barrel terminals. See the pictures below:

For non-insulated European style electrical terminals I would add the following two parts suppliers to your list:

1. German Supply
2. Source Products, Inc.

If you live in the United States, I would recommend Source Products since their terminals and shipping is about one-half the cost of German Supply.

Pat (66foot)

Look closely - It is the identical terminal manufactured by KS
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


CRIMPERS
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


STRIPPERS
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


YOU SNIP
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


YOU STRIP
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


YOU CRIMP
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some also add a dab of solder, a heat shrink, or a pvc/nylon/vinyl sleeve - personal preference on all three.
_________________
"The perfect race car crosses the finish line in first place and then falls to pieces."
Ferdinand Porsche
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Glenn Premium Member
Mr. 010


Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 78557
Location: Sneaking up behind you
Glenn is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Pat.

I only use the open barrel type and crimping them is all that's needed. It was good enough for VW and the military.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
NCdad
Samba Member


Joined: August 28, 2008
Posts: 1535
Location: South Carolina
NCdad is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks PAT!

I saw so many different kids, mostly the aluminum ones... are the ones on the beetles 4mm then?
_________________
ROBERT
My VWs & Projects - | - German Invasion VW Show - Sept 7, 2024 Shelby, NC
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Facebook Instagram Gallery Classifieds Feedback
EverettB Premium Member
Administrator


Joined: April 11, 2000
Posts: 70937
Location: Phoenix 602
EverettB is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those crimpers are awesome. Source for those?

Wiring Works, the guy that makes VW wiring harnesses, sells the copper ends in little baggies at CA shows. I can't remember the price but I don't remember the cost being as high as what is listed from German Supply.
_________________
How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Facebook Instagram YouTube Gallery Classifieds Feedback
bonewso
Samba Member


Joined: March 09, 2006
Posts: 186
Location: Pensacola, FL
bonewso is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah - where can a person get a set of those crimpers?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Viande
Samba Member


Joined: August 14, 2008
Posts: 1719
Location: GA
Viande is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Those crimpers are awesome. Source for those?



http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ta18920.html

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-18920.html

http://wesco-enterprise.amazonwebstore.com/Tool-Aid-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper-Kit/M/B0002STTTI.htm
_________________
Bobby
New Items In Stock, NOS & OEM Seals,Parts and Terminals
My Feedback Here

The bitter taste of poor quality lingers long after the joy of the cheap price fades away.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
fastinradford
Samba Member


Joined: June 08, 2008
Posts: 2895
Location: Athens Ohio
fastinradford is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the cheap aluminum ones usually come insulated these days.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
train99
Samba Member


Joined: March 21, 2008
Posts: 467
Location: AZ
train99 is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cheap ones from hardware stores with colored insulation are coded.
Red is for 18-22 gauge wire.
Blue is for 14-16 gauge wire.
Yellow is for 10-12 gauge wire.

I use a different type of tool for crimping. Probably much cheaper than the ones shown in the photos above.

It's a Klein Cat. No. 1000. It strips wires, crimps connectors, cuts wire and cuts screws without damaging the threads.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



There's a list of similar tools here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/kln02.html#wire

I've had mine for 25 years and use it regularly. I have wire strippers like the one shown above, but find the Klein more comfortable and prefer to carry one multipurpose tool than a handful of special purpose tools.


ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: If you soldier, use rosin core soldier not acid core.

Terry
_________________
Wanted - Seat Bottoms with good springs for 69 bug. Don't care about upholstery. Local to Mesa AZ only.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ach60 Premium Member
Samba Member


Joined: May 14, 2001
Posts: 4138
Location: Santa Maria
ach60 is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!
What a great post, can we make this a stickie?
Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!
_________________
Good Luck
Al
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger Gallery Classifieds Feedback
69 Jim
Samba Member


Joined: September 27, 2004
Posts: 6264
Location: Chickengeorge's Neighbor
69 Jim is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually most manufacturers refer to these as simply push-on terminals.

This page will show what a "spade" terminal actually is:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html?lang=en-us&target=d44.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
ap_sand
Samba Member


Joined: November 07, 2008
Posts: 249
Location: Woodinville, WA
ap_sand is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Careful about using solder with these terminals. If you are using properly adjusted, high quality crimpers like those shown, the crimp on the wire closest to the end compresses the connection enough to make it gas (air) tight. If you were to cut a section through it, you wouldn't see the individual wire, just a single piece of metal. No air, no moisture, no corrosion (from the inside).

The second crimp grabs and supports the insulation adding physical strength and avoiding fatigue.

When you solder, two things happen. First, solder has a (slightly) higher resistance than an air tight conductor to conductor connection. Second and more importantly, the solder wicks up the wire past the second grip and makes the wire rigid to that point. This becomes the hinge when the wire flexes and promotes fatigue.

There is nothing wrong with the terminal ends shown and the fact that there are millions of them still working fine after 50+ years attests to that. Those terminals and the tool shown take a bit of skill and some care to use. If you NEED solder to secure the wire, you’re not doing it correctly. Practice some more. I’d suggest putting two pieces of heat shrink tubing over the connection. One that’s about 3/8” longer than the length from the wire end of the terminal to the shoulder where it widens out. This seals the outside and adds corrosion protection. Follow with a second one that goes 1/8” from the end of the first on the wire side and all the way over the wide end of the connector to act as an insulator. If you use clear heat shrink, it doesn’t prevent you from checking the condition of the joint.

All that being said, these were engineered to be the cheapest adequate design and there are better solutions available today. I prefer to use insulated connectors. The best are made by Tyco/AMP/3M and are called PIDG (Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip). They are two piece with an inner barrel that goes over the wire inside the connector. Then the where the connector is bent around into the round section the wire goes into, it has a bell that is compressed around the insulation to grip it and the is soldered together so it doesn’t open up when it’s crimped.

The most commonly available terminals have PVC insulation. It is opaque and more prone to splitting and has low resistance to heat and aging. The superior insulation is nylon. You can recognize it because it is translucent.

Here are a few of on-line sources:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7ScBeCnc0e0uirc8SdFNT

http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page10.html

http://www.digikey.com/

http://www.newark.com/tyco-electronics-amp/640905-2/terminal/dp/72C7789

Here’s some nice little “How to”:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf

http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page7.html
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
kme_eone
Banned


Joined: November 24, 2005
Posts: 308
Location: Anchorage, AK
kme_eone is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a wiring harness out of Hot VWs and I had to spend the time to add wiring and connectors to the harness. I tried the GM brand to save some money and ended up taking a knife to it all, so much for 250.00 of perfect wiring to update your VW. I ended up calling VW Germany and got ahold of Classic Parts and paid 450.00 for an OEM wiring and installed it. Worth the money and time invested in the OEM harness. I have heard too many horrors stories on wiring harnesses made here in the US from "proffesional" auto wiring companies.
_________________
Chris Blankenship
South Wind parts and service
907-276-3397
Anchorage, AK
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
jamesdagg
Samba Member


Joined: August 18, 2007
Posts: 3364
Location: B.C.Canada
jamesdagg is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have heard them called bayonet connectors I think.

The $20 Radio Shack crimpers work fine for occasional use. They just are nor ratcheted and require two crimps. One for the wire and one for the insulation. Ends up the same. No need to solder.

I will not use the new aluminum ones and when forced to always soldered.

Does anyone know where to get the T connectors in their various forms?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


jim
_________________
'72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Gallery Classifieds Feedback
69 Jim
Samba Member


Joined: September 27, 2004
Posts: 6264
Location: Chickengeorge's Neighbor
69 Jim is offline 

PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jamesdagg wrote:
I have heard them called bayonet connectors I think.

The $20 Radio Shack crimpers work fine for occasional use. They just are nor ratcheted and require two crimps. One for the wire and one for the insulation. Ends up the same. No need to solder.

I will not use the new aluminum ones and when forced to always soldered.

Does anyone know where to get the T connectors in their various forms?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


jim



http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111937079
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Page 1 of 6

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2024, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.