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NCdad Samba Member

Joined: August 28, 2008 Posts: 1535 Location: South Carolina
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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:48 pm Post subject: Whats the name of these type connectors? |
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i have to replace a few of these. what do you ask for?
any special tool needed for attaching them?
Thanks!
_________________ ROBERT
My VWs & Projects - | - German Invasion VW Show - Sept 7, 2024 Shelby, NC |
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theadmiral1000 Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 251 Location: Bothell, WA (near Seattle)
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Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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They are called spade connectors, available at the hardware store, etc.
There's different ways to attach them, crimp/solder/etc depending on what kind of spade connector you get. I usually just use what type I have on hand, but I'll let other people comment on their preferred method of attaching the connectors to the wire. _________________ Zach S.
71 Ghia
75 R75/6 |
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fastinradford Samba Member
Joined: June 08, 2008 Posts: 2895 Location: Athens Ohio
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:05 am Post subject: |
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Also called male/female connectors. Yeah, like ^he^ said. You can even pick em up at wal mart, but careful, there ARE different sizes, but 95% on a bug are the same. |
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jamesdagg Samba Member

Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 3364 Location: B.C.Canada
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:42 am Post subject: |
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The new ones are aluminum and crap. The crimping often does not hold so you should solder.
However some electronics stores and the following website sell the original which are brass and far better. They don't simply crimp, they roll the edges inward. The special tool is quite expensive but I found one at Circuit City (formerly Radio Shack) for $20 that works fine but is not ratcheted.
You need to clean up the ones you don't replace. You need electrical spray cleaner, fine sandpaper, emery boards, fiberglass pencil etc.
Spade connectors> These have the locking tabs for the T connectors.
http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/search.php?substring=terminals
jim _________________ '72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available |
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kme_eone Banned
Joined: November 24, 2005 Posts: 308 Location: Anchorage, AK
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:02 am Post subject: |
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Take the tme to solder the connectors worth it in the long run. _________________ Chris Blankenship
South Wind parts and service
907-276-3397
Anchorage, AK |
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ashman40 Samba Member

Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 16364 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:16 am Post subject: |
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I normally see them advertised as 0.25" spade connectors (male or female).
As Jim mentioned the aluminum ones (I actually thought they were made from tin but aluminum makes sense) are more common in the states with their yellow/blue/red insulated skirts that you crush to hold the wire in place.
The type in the pic are sometimes referred to as "uninsulated F-type spade connectors". You crimp them in two spots... One roll crimp holds the wire while the other roll crimp holds the insulation. Because there are two crimps they stay on much better.
Funny thing... here in Japan the F-type are more common in the parts stores. They usually come with a silicone insulation sleeve that slides over them. _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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66foot  Samba Member

Joined: November 19, 2006 Posts: 398 Location: Pacific Grove, California
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:34 am Post subject: |
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They are also called non-insulated open barrel terminals.
The preferred tool is one that will handle non-insulated open barrel terminals. See the pictures below:
For non-insulated European style electrical terminals I would add the following two parts suppliers to your list:
1. German Supply
2. Source Products, Inc.
If you live in the United States, I would recommend Source Products since their terminals and shipping is about one-half the cost of German Supply.
Pat (66foot)
Look closely - It is the identical terminal manufactured by KS
CRIMPERS
STRIPPERS
YOU SNIP
YOU STRIP
YOU CRIMP
Some also add a dab of solder, a heat shrink, or a pvc/nylon/vinyl sleeve - personal preference on all three. _________________ "The perfect race car crosses the finish line in first place and then falls to pieces."
Ferdinand Porsche |
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Glenn  Mr. 010

Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 78557 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 6:26 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Pat.
I only use the open barrel type and crimping them is all that's needed. It was good enough for VW and the military.
_________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי |
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NCdad Samba Member

Joined: August 28, 2008 Posts: 1535 Location: South Carolina
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EverettB  Administrator

Joined: April 11, 2000 Posts: 70937 Location: Phoenix 602
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bonewso Samba Member

Joined: March 09, 2006 Posts: 186 Location: Pensacola, FL
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:09 am Post subject: |
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Yeah - where can a person get a set of those crimpers? |
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Viande Samba Member

Joined: August 14, 2008 Posts: 1719 Location: GA
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fastinradford Samba Member
Joined: June 08, 2008 Posts: 2895 Location: Athens Ohio
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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All the cheap aluminum ones usually come insulated these days. |
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train99 Samba Member

Joined: March 21, 2008 Posts: 467 Location: AZ
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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The cheap ones from hardware stores with colored insulation are coded.
Red is for 18-22 gauge wire.
Blue is for 14-16 gauge wire.
Yellow is for 10-12 gauge wire.
I use a different type of tool for crimping. Probably much cheaper than the ones shown in the photos above.
It's a Klein Cat. No. 1000. It strips wires, crimps connectors, cuts wire and cuts screws without damaging the threads.
There's a list of similar tools here:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/kln02.html#wire
I've had mine for 25 years and use it regularly. I have wire strippers like the one shown above, but find the Klein more comfortable and prefer to carry one multipurpose tool than a handful of special purpose tools.
ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: If you soldier, use rosin core soldier not acid core.
Terry _________________ Wanted - Seat Bottoms with good springs for 69 bug. Don't care about upholstery. Local to Mesa AZ only. |
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ach60  Samba Member
Joined: May 14, 2001 Posts: 4138 Location: Santa Maria
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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WOW!
What a great post, can we make this a stickie?
Thanks Guys!!!!!!!! _________________ Good Luck
Al |
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69 Jim Samba Member

Joined: September 27, 2004 Posts: 6264 Location: Chickengeorge's Neighbor
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ap_sand Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2008 Posts: 249 Location: Woodinville, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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Careful about using solder with these terminals. If you are using properly adjusted, high quality crimpers like those shown, the crimp on the wire closest to the end compresses the connection enough to make it gas (air) tight. If you were to cut a section through it, you wouldn't see the individual wire, just a single piece of metal. No air, no moisture, no corrosion (from the inside).
The second crimp grabs and supports the insulation adding physical strength and avoiding fatigue.
When you solder, two things happen. First, solder has a (slightly) higher resistance than an air tight conductor to conductor connection. Second and more importantly, the solder wicks up the wire past the second grip and makes the wire rigid to that point. This becomes the hinge when the wire flexes and promotes fatigue.
There is nothing wrong with the terminal ends shown and the fact that there are millions of them still working fine after 50+ years attests to that. Those terminals and the tool shown take a bit of skill and some care to use. If you NEED solder to secure the wire, you’re not doing it correctly. Practice some more. I’d suggest putting two pieces of heat shrink tubing over the connection. One that’s about 3/8” longer than the length from the wire end of the terminal to the shoulder where it widens out. This seals the outside and adds corrosion protection. Follow with a second one that goes 1/8” from the end of the first on the wire side and all the way over the wide end of the connector to act as an insulator. If you use clear heat shrink, it doesn’t prevent you from checking the condition of the joint.
All that being said, these were engineered to be the cheapest adequate design and there are better solutions available today. I prefer to use insulated connectors. The best are made by Tyco/AMP/3M and are called PIDG (Pre-Insulated Diamond Grip). They are two piece with an inner barrel that goes over the wire inside the connector. Then the where the connector is bent around into the round section the wire goes into, it has a bell that is compressed around the insulation to grip it and the is soldered together so it doesn’t open up when it’s crimped.
The most commonly available terminals have PVC insulation. It is opaque and more prone to splitting and has low resistance to heat and aging. The superior insulation is nylon. You can recognize it because it is translucent.
Here are a few of on-line sources:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt7ScBeCnc0e0uirc8SdFNT
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page10.html
http://www.digikey.com/
http://www.newark.com/tyco-electronics-amp/640905-2/terminal/dp/72C7789
Here’s some nice little “How to”:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
http://www.terminaltown.com/Pages/Page7.html |
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kme_eone Banned
Joined: November 24, 2005 Posts: 308 Location: Anchorage, AK
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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I bought a wiring harness out of Hot VWs and I had to spend the time to add wiring and connectors to the harness. I tried the GM brand to save some money and ended up taking a knife to it all, so much for 250.00 of perfect wiring to update your VW. I ended up calling VW Germany and got ahold of Classic Parts and paid 450.00 for an OEM wiring and installed it. Worth the money and time invested in the OEM harness. I have heard too many horrors stories on wiring harnesses made here in the US from "proffesional" auto wiring companies. _________________ Chris Blankenship
South Wind parts and service
907-276-3397
Anchorage, AK |
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jamesdagg Samba Member

Joined: August 18, 2007 Posts: 3364 Location: B.C.Canada
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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I have heard them called bayonet connectors I think.
The $20 Radio Shack crimpers work fine for occasional use. They just are nor ratcheted and require two crimps. One for the wire and one for the insulation. Ends up the same. No need to solder.
I will not use the new aluminum ones and when forced to always soldered.
Does anyone know where to get the T connectors in their various forms?
jim _________________ '72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available |
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69 Jim Samba Member

Joined: September 27, 2004 Posts: 6264 Location: Chickengeorge's Neighbor
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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jamesdagg wrote: |
I have heard them called bayonet connectors I think.
The $20 Radio Shack crimpers work fine for occasional use. They just are nor ratcheted and require two crimps. One for the wire and one for the insulation. Ends up the same. No need to solder.
I will not use the new aluminum ones and when forced to always soldered.
Does anyone know where to get the T connectors in their various forms?
jim |
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111937079 |
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