Rear shift rod bushing question and shift coupler comparison

[Dontburnit]

Hello all,

I'm working on my '67 Standard - replacing the 68 bug IRS transmission for a freshly rebuilt unit.

As i removed the shift coupler to replace it with a new one, I noticed that the shift rod at the back of the bus moves quite a bit, up and down and all around. I thought perhaps I am missing a rear bushing that goes inside the end of the shift tube. I checked with Mr. Bentley, and did searches on here, and did not find the detailed picture or great decription I was looking for. Checked with my usual parts web site and found a front bushing and a middle bushing (says on the site two are required) but no information on where they go. So....am I missing a bushing at the back or should the shift rod be able to move around as described?
Also, I compared my new shift coupler to the old one, and have to say that I am not impressed with the quality of the new one.

This ^^^ (top of the photo) is the old coupler face - note how the taps line up nicely with the notches.

This ^^^ is the new coupler - see how far out the tabs and notches are. Not good.

This ^^^ is the back side of the old coupler.

This ^^^ is the backside of the new coupler. There is a big difference in overall diameter as well.
I measures the outer edge to outer edge hole distances in the bolt holes and found the old coupler measured 0.156 inches and the new coupler measured 0.152 inches. Not sure if that will make a big difference or not.
I'm going to reinstall my old coupler and throw the new one in the road trip tool box for "just in case".
As always, your help is greatly apprciated.
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[Eric&Barb]

Che check out the "Parts Manuals" here:

http://vintagebus.com/parts/

Especially the exploded diagrams are wonderful.
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[EverettB]

Yes, there is a bushing in the rear as well, it needs to be replaced when the transmission is out.

I could not locate a good thread or photos either but maybe someone else can provide information.

On the shift coupler, that looks very poor.

It sounds like you are not going to use it but you should also check to make sure the 2 mounting holes are in line with each other. Some reporo couplers are not and they will screw up your shift pattern. Example of good coupler:

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[Dontburnit]

Thanks EB,

As i understand it - there should be two of these:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211711185B
on the rear shift rod, one near the front and one near the back.
Upon inspection, if the front one is ok, can I slide a new rear one on and up the shaft into the tube without removing the rod?
thanks,
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[Eric&Barb]

You could, but if you have the transaxle out, now is the time to pull the linkage apart for a good greasing of the front shift coupler fasteners. Rear linkage tube a good cleaning out and greasing with graphite to keep it shifting smoothly.

Nothing worse than later wishing you had done it correctly and having to take much more time to rectify what you should have done.

Do not forget the boots that help keep dust/dirt out of the shift tube and nose of the transaxle. Ronnie of Bustoration.com was able to get the later version of those for us.
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[Krustybus]

[Dontburnit]

[Eric&Barb]

Good! You will love how it shifts when you are all done.

Like the rear coupler, the repro front solid couplers have shown up with holes not aligned.

Make sure to anti-seize or at least grease all fasteners so they will come apart without a fight a decade or two later.

Plus those square headed coupler bolts must be safety wired in place and the wire must be installed in such a way as to keep the bolts tight. Put the wire on the wrong way and the bolts can loosen even a 1/8 turn and then the holes in the couplers/shift rods get slowly worn out!
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[Dontburnit]

I thought I should share the end to this story....
I ordered the 'badminton birdie" shift rod bushings (2) for the '67.
I cleaned up the shift rods and parts, rust treated and POR15'd all the metal - looks good.
I installed the birdie bushings on the rear rod and slid them in the tube. I went to the rear of the rod and grabbed it to see how "firm" it had become with new bushing and I was quite dissappointed. Although it was not flopping around like it had been with the old bushings, it was still easy to move around up and down inside the tube.
I then placed my thinking cap on, and started scratching my head. "There must be a better way", I thought.
Over in the corner of the shop, I spotted a chunk of 3/4" PVC electrical conduit. "Ahah", I said out loud. "I've got it...". I lopped of a 3" chunk of the conduit and fitted it into the rear of the shift rod tube. It fit perfectly over the rod and inside the tube - instant bushing.
I then removed the rod and the badminton bushings and stored the bushing on the shelf of "stuff" and proceeded to cut another conduit bushing for the front of the rod. Now I need to stop them from moving inside the tube, and I want to be able to service them / maximize their life. So, I rooted around the parts drawer and found a couple of grease nipples. I proceeded to drill and tap the pvc conduit for the nipples, and drilled a hole just a bit bigger than the nipple thread in the front and back of the rod tube on the bus at about a 4 o'clock positions.
I know I should have taken pictures, but I was afraid that the fraknen bushing would fail, so I chose not to at that time, my mistake, sorry.
I then inserted and secured the front bushing using the nipple and a little washer, and then the rear. A few squirts of grease and then inserted the rod from the rear. Once in place, i rolled the rod around to get it nice and greasy then added some more grease and repeat.
It slid back and forth like butter, and did not have any lateral movement.
Once everything was back together, the transmission shift like a dream. The gear positions are firm and there is no flopping around, looking for gears. It was a simple fix and so far seems effective. And best of all, it can be reversed to stock if desired.
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[Eric&Barb]

In theory that is a great fix, but the rubber transaxle mounts do have some flex in them. Would be worried that the solid shift linkage bushings will not flex with the transaxle movement, and you will have premature nose cone bushing wear or possibly worse....
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[SCZ9-1-1]

I would have to agree that it was designed to probably have some lateral movement in the shift linkage.

[BulliBill]

I just removed my rear shift rod and cleaned everything, installed a new bushing, greased it all back up again, and reinstalled it. For a couple of photos of the rod removed and the bushing, go to this thread:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=545000&start=0

and end up on page nine or so for the photos of the rod and bushing...

Bill Bowman
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Thanks for any help!

[easy e]

I looked at thread linked above & it didn't answer my questions below... and as a side note, it seemed he's missing a bushing.

Many moons for me since disassembly & I'm trying to get it back together now... I've lost track of which way the rear shift rod should be oriented. Two questions below.

The rod has a hole mid-length and a hole nearer one end.

1) Does the hole nearer the one end go towards the front or rear?

It seems like the flared tail of the end bushing should point away from the rod end (so it might not bump on / interfere with the rubber boot that goes on the end).

2) Does it matter which direction the bushings are oriented?

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[jason]

I just replaced mine. Bushings were close to the front and in the center with fingers to the rear. Like your picture with the old bushing.

[easy e]

What year is yours? Mine's '58.

As discussed by Eric&Barb (a few posts up)... the nose cone might get worn prematurely if rod not supported well. There's not much to wear out up at the front shift rod. This leads me to believe the bushing near the end of rod should be at the rear.

Additionally, here's a post where Everett indicates a '59 would have one at the rear... and two posts further down in the thread Clara discusses having to pull transmission to swap rear bushing: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7...91#7259068
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aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List
“They are about as worthless as the tits on the boars that live in the woods behind their junk yard.” -Weatherly

[BarryL]

Does anyone know if a Bay shuttlecock will fit ok on the split. I know there are two locating nubs on the Bay bushing and splits only have one. So if one nub got filed off would it work?

[Clara]

There are two splitty plastic versions, (plus the early/metal bushing) change was at about VIN 835 xxx.
What's a bay one look like?
is it hard to find the splitty ones? I think the Brazilian splits used the pre 62 version.

What year is your bus?
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[BarryL]

[Dangermouse]

[Clara]